By JANET K. KEELER, Times Staff Writer
© St. Petersburg Times
published January 9, 2002

You've resolved to cut back on fat after the holiday's gluttony, but you don't have to accept bland food. Instead, season your dishes with spices.

The food of January is typically spare, coming as it does after the rich fare of December. The sugar plums that danced in our heads are now resting on our hips, and for that we must pay the piper.

Our self-imposed punishment for the wanton gluttony is lettuce-and-tomato salads with fat-free dressing, if any at all; baked boneless, skinless chicken and steamed broccoli with a squeeze of lemon; and low-fat cottage cheese with half a canned peach, not in heavy syrup.

Is it any wonder all resolve is gone by month's end? After letting our taste buds tango, we push them to the sidelines, a bitter end to the festive holiday season. A full-scale revolt can be assured by Valentine's Day.

The solution? Go ahead and scale back fat and calories, but pump up the flavor of your food with spices, which are virtually calorie free. Sprinkle nutmeg over sauteed spinach. Add aniseed to steamed carrots. Let cinnamon enhance the sweetness in roasted winter squash.

Spices give food complexity and aroma, two things you don't want to deprive yourself of when you're cutting fatty flavor-infusers such as butter and mayonnaise. A whiff of licorice-tinged fennel seed in roasted vegetables or earthy lemon grass in a marinade for fish might be enough to satisfy your craving for something good to eat.

Spices and herbs are different, botanically speaking, and both add depth to food. Generally, herbs are the aromatic leaves of plants, such as basil, oregano and marjoram, that grow in a variety of climates. Spices are derived from a wider range of plant parts including the fruit (cayenne pepper ground from chilis), seed (cumin), roots (turmeric), flower (saffron), buds (cloves) or bark (cinnamon). Spices are usually from plants grown in tropical climates.

Dried herbs, like spices, are available year-round; fresh herbs are not. Ground spices and dried herbs lose their peak potency after about a year. The new year is a good time to take stock and toss out anything that you can't remember buying. One remedy to the burgeoning spice cabinet is to buy smaller quantities from whole foods stores. Writing the date of purchase on the container helps you keep track of old spice.

Spices, most of which originated in India, Indonesia and the Malaysian archipelago, have played an important part in the history of the world. Wars were waged for control of the valuable spice trade, whose spoils were used as currency and medicine. Turmeric and saffron were used to dye yarn and fabric; cloves laced perfume. European laborers were paid in cardamom; a sheep was valued at five ounces of mace, according to Jenna Holst in the new Cooking with Spices for Dummies (Hungry Minds Inc.; $19.99).

While we no longer use cinnamon to pay the mortgage or buy clothes, spices remain an integral part of our lives. What would chili be without cumin or goulash without sweet paprika? They would be boring, something best avoided when attempting to wean ourselves from richer foods.

There was a time when the most exotic spice on grocery store shelves was mild curry powder, an Americanized version of the fiery spice blend key to Indian cuisine. However, in the last two decades a steady influx of immigrants to the United States from Asia, the Mideast, the Caribbean and Central and South America have introduced their cuisines and their spices. Today, a panoply of ethnic markets offers Indian fenugreek seeds, Mexican vanilla beans and cinnamon and Asian lemon grass. The Food Network has done its part, too, to expose flavors from around the world.

McCormick, the giant Maryland spice manufacturer, has recognized the demand for a wider variety of spices. Last year, McCormick introduced a line of 22 spice blends including Japanese-inspired wasabi powder, Indian garam masala, Mexican chipotle chili powder and ground lemon grass.

Here are some ways, according to Cooking with Spices for Dummies, to integrate spices into everyday cooking:

Sprinkle paprika on potatoes, chicken, fish or vegetables. Paprika is made from both sweet and hot peppers.

Add a dash of cinnamon or cardamom to coffee grounds before brewing.

Can't give up your cinnamon toast? Hit the toast with a couple of spritzes of butter spray and then sprinkle on sugar mixed with cinnamon, nutmeg and a pinch of allspice. The heady spices will make you forget the lack of butter.

Add celery seed to coleslaw made with low-fat dressing. Use it in fish dishes.

Ground coriander is an aromatic addition to poaching liquid for fish.

Nutmeg enhances spinach dishes. Mix it with low-fat ricotta or cottage cheese in veggie lasagna.

A pinch of cinnamon, cardamom, allspice or nutmeg added to fat-free whipped topping makes a lovely accompaniment for fresh fruit.

The yin and yang of cayenne pepper and sliced melon is a satisfying taste.

Add saffron, turmeric or curry to water while cooking grains such as couscous, rice or barley.

Vinegar absorbs the flavor of garlic or ginger and can bring some excitement to salads. Use six whole, peeled garlic cloves or a 2-inch piece of peeled ginger for 2 cups of wine vinegar (red for garlic, white for ginger). The flavored vinegar makes less oil necessary in dressings.

Add spices to flour or cornmeal for breading and you can lessen the amount of coating. Some spice blends to mix with 1 cup flour: 1 teaspoon cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon salt; 11/2 teaspoons dried mustard, 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives or parsley; 21/2 teaspoons curry powder, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder.

Using spices to bring flavor and enticing aromas to food is one way of gently nudging us toward more healthful eating. After all, the sugar plums are lovely to sample, but a steady diet of December's traditional foods just won't do.

Spice up your food and you might not know what you're missing.

Spices on the Web

If you want to shop for spices or just learn more about them from the comfort of your computer terminal, check out these sites:

www.penzeys.com: This Wisconsin spice shop offers 250 spices, herbs and seasonings including dried juniper berries, several kinds of curry powders and Pakistan ajwain seed. Call toll-free 1-800-741-7787 for a catalog.

www.thespicehouse.com: The Spice House, with shops in Illinois and Wisconsin, stocks hundreds of spices and many spice blends and seasonings. This comprehensive site provides information, recipes and a search function.

La Maison Gourmet cooking school in Dunedin will hold a demonstration class on cooking with herbs and spices from 7 to 9 p.m. on Jan. 16. The cooking school is at 471 Main St. Call (727) 736-3070 to reserve a spot or ask about the healthful cooking classes series that begins Jan. 17. The herbs and spices class is $35 and will include preparation of butternut squash with curried horseradish cream, braised chicken breast with sloe gin and juniper, and chocolate mint truffle phyllo bundles with poached oranges spiced with star anise and cinnamon, among other dishes.

Spiced Couscous With Currants

• 1 cup instant couscous
• 1/2 teaspoon salt
• 1 cup boiling water or chicken broth
• 1-1/2 teaspoons butter
• 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne
• 1/3 cup currants, plumped

In a medium bowl, combine the couscous, salt and boiling water and stir.

Add the butter, coriander, cumin, cinnamon and cayenne. Cover and let stand for about 5 minutes, until the couscous is plumped. Fluff with a fork and stir in the currants. Serves 4 to 6.

Tip: To plump currants, put them in a small bowl. Pour enough boiling water over them to cover them completely. Let them stand for 10 minutes. Drain and discard water.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories 157; fat 3 gm; cholesterol 8 mg; sodium 198 mg; carbohydrate 28 gm; fiber 2 gm; protein 4 gm.

Source: "Cooking With Spices for Dummies" by Jenna Holst (Hungry Minds Inc., 2001; $19.99)

Curried Cumin Potatoes

• 2 pounds new potatoes
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons cumin seed
• 2 teaspoons ground turmeric
• 2 teaspoons curry powder
• 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Place whole potatoes into a saucepan with water to cover. Bring to a boil, and cook until just tender. Drain, and cut potatoes into quarters. Set aside to keep warm.

Heat oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Saute the cumin, turmeric and curry powder for 1 minute. Add potatoes and saute until coated. Toss potatoes with sea salt, pepper and fresh cilantro and serve hot.

Serves 8.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories 130; protein 3 gm; fat 4 gm; sodium 627 mg; cholesterol 0; carbohydrates 22 gm; fiber 2 gm.

Source: www.allrecipes.com

Indian Tomato Chicken

• 1 large onion, chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 slice fresh ginger root
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1 1-inch piece cinnamon stick, chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
• 6 skinless chicken thighs
• 1 14.5-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed

Place onion, garlic and ginger in a food processor and process into a paste. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat, add onion paste and saute, stirring continuously, for about 10 minutes.

Stir in the cumin, turmeric, salt, pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves and nutmeg. Saute, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes. Place chicken pieces in skillet and stir them around with the spice mixture until they are well coated.

Saute for another 4 minutes, then pour in the tomatoes with liquid and stir. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 to 2 hours, or until the oil has separated from the liquid. Stir occasionally. (Note: If you simmer uncovered, the sauce will thicken; add water, or keep covered while simmering.)

Serves 6.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories 134; protein 15 gm; fat 5 gm; sodium 550 mg;cholesterol57 mg; carbohydrates7 gm; fiber 2 gm.

Source: www.allrecipes.com

Strawberry Spinach Salad

• 10 ounces fresh spinach, chopped, washed and dried
• 1/2 teaspoon dried dill weed
• 1 pint fresh strawberries, sliced
• 1/3 cup canola oil
• 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup white sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
• 1/4 teaspoon dry hot mustard
• 1 pinch ground cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

In a large bowl, combine the spinach, dill and strawberries. Refrigerate until chilled.

In a large glass jar with tight fitting lid, combine the oil, vinegar, sugar, garlic powder, onion powder, salt, black pepper, dry mustard and cayenne pepper. Shake well until sugar is dissolved.

Pour dressing over chilled fruit and greens; toss to coat and sprinkle with sesame seeds. (You can cut some of the fat from this recipe by eating less dressing. Serve on the side and dip fork into dressing and then pick up salad pieces.)

Serves 6.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories 178; protein 2 gm; fat 13 gm; sodium 426 mg; cholesterol 0; carbohydrates 16 gm; fiber 3 gm.

-- Source: www.allrecipes.com

Grilled Flank Steak Salad With Sweet and Sour Sesame Dressing

For dressing:

• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons rice vinegar
• 1 tablespoon light brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon Chinese plum sauce

For salad:

• 4 cups shredded napa cabbage (12 to 16 ounces)
• 2 cups cooked wild rice, chilled
• 4 ounces asparagus, cooked (3 to 5 spears)
• 8 cherry tomatoes (gold preferred)
• 1/2 medium cucumber, thinly sliced
• 1/2 medium red bell pepper, thinly sliced 1/2 medium red onion, thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup alfalfa sprouts
• 6 to 8 ounces grilled flank steak, thinly sliced across grain, warm or chilled

Heat a small skillet over medium heat. Toast sesame seeds for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a medium bowl and let cool for 5 minutes. Add remaining dressing ingredients and whisk together.

To serve, arrange cabbage on a large platter. Mound rice in center of cabbage. Decoratively arrange asparagus, tomatoes, cucumber, bell pepper, red onion and alfalfa sprouts on cabbage. Lay beef slices on rice. Drizzle dressing over all.

Serves 4.

Nutritional analysis per serving: calories 257; protein 20 gm; carbohydrates 30 gm; fat 7 gm; sodium 112 mg; fiber 6 gm; cholesterol 33 mg.

-- Source: American Heart Association

Mashed Vanilla-Scented Sweet Potatoes

• 2-1/2 pounds sweet potatoes
• 2-1/2 tablespoons butter
• 1/3 cup orange juice, heated
• 1/2 vanilla bean pod, split and seeds scraped out
• Salt to taste, about 3/4 teaspoon

Freshly ground white or black pepper to taste, about 1/4 teaspoon

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Bake the sweet potatoes on a baking sheet until they can be easily pierced with the tip of a paring knife, about 50 to 60 minutes, depending on their size.

Remove the pulp from the potatoes and discard the skins. In a large bowl, mash the pulp with a potato masher.

Melt the butter in a skillet over medium-low heat. Add the orange juice and vanilla seeds and heat until just warm. Add the butter-vanilla-orange mixture to the potatoes. Salt and pepper to taste. Stir until smooth.

Variation: Replace the vanilla bean with 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon and a scant 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated or ground nutmeg.

Serves 4 to 6.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories 169; fat 5 gm; cholesterol 13 mg; sodium 303 mg; carbohydrate 29 gm, fiber 4 gm; protein 2 gm.

Source: "Cooking With Spices for Dummies" by Jenna Holst (Hungry Minds Inc., 2001; $19.99)

Baked Mango-Ginger Swordfish

• 2 pounds swordfish steaks
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1/3 cup and 2 tablespoons dry sherry
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger root
• 1 cup mango chutney

Place swordfish steaks in a large, shallow bowl. In a small bowl, mix lemon juice, dry sherry, ginger and mango chutney. Pour the mixture over swordfish steaks, turning steaks to coat. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Place swordfish steaks in a medium baking dish. Cover with marinade. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, basting occasionally with marinade, until fish is easily flaked with a fork. Serves 4.

Nutritional analysis per serving: Calories 357; protein 36 gm; fat 7 gm; sodium 353 mg; cholesterol 69 mg; carbohydrates 30 gm; fiber 2 gm.

Source: www.allrecipes.com

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