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DISH: A weekly serving of food news and views

By JANET K. KEELER, Times Staff Writer
© St. Petersburg Times
published February 20, 2002


deconstructing
explanations from the inside out

Worcestershire sauce

photoA splash of Worcestershire adds a tangy, sweet, spicy, fruity depth to marinades, salad dressings or sauces, even Bloody Marys. Discerning what's in it is almost as difficult as pronouncing it. Even the woman who answers the phone at Lea & Perrins in Fair Lawn, N.J., wasn't sure. It is WOOS-tah-shure? Or WERE-chuhs-ture? Webster's New World dictionary prefers WOOS-ter-shir. A marketing rep from Lea & Perrins pronounces it WUS-stir-shear.

Though many companies now make Worcestershire sauce, it was a Lea & Perrins' apothecary who first developed it in 1835. Legend has it that the formula was brought to chemists John Lea and William Perrins in Worcester, England, by Lord Sandys, a British nobleman who had tasted a similar sauce in India.

Lea and Perrins weren't wild about the flavor of vinegar, molasses, anchovies, tamarind, shallots, garlic, onion, cloves and chili pepper, so they sealed the mixture up in a earthenware crock and forgot about it. Some time later it was rediscovered, and the flavors had melded and mellowed.

This story, told for years, has some detractors. Even Lea & Perrins, according to the New York Times, admits the saga "may not be God's own truth."

It is true, however, that Worcestershire sauce is one of the world's most popular condiments. Some 25-million bottles roll off the Lea & Perrins assembly line in Worcester, and countless more are bottled at company factories around the world from concentrate. Plus, at least 100 other bottlers worldwide are marketing their own versions.

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cooking class

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The best-tasting carrots are those with lush, bushy tops. However, it is best to twist the tops off after purchasing. If left intact, they rob the bulb of moisture, and the carrots will become limp.

this web site cooks

www.nyfoodmuseum.com

Even before Alain Ducasse was charging $500 for dinner for two at his New York City restaurant, food in the Big Apple was legendary. From breweries to push carts to open air markets, this site gives a glimpse of what eating and farming(!) in New York were like 100 years ago.

constant comment

"Food eaten at a table is better for you than food eaten hunched over a desk, at a counter, or driving in a car. And I believe that, wherever you do it, hurried eating has ruined more digestive systems than foie gras." -- Peter Mayle in Encore Provence

say what?

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H.J. Heinz continues its development of eye-popping food products -- think green and purple ketchup -- with Funky Fries. The new Ore-Ida product includes frozen french fries flavored with sour cream and chives, cinnamon-and-sugar "Cinna-Stiks" and "Crunchy Rings" -- basically Tater Tots with a hole in the middle. Then there's "Kool Blue," a sky blue, seasoned french fry, and brown, chocolatey "Cocoa Crispers," designed "for kids with a sweet tooth." They'll be available in May. Steel yourselves for the begging from your kids.

how america eats

According to the March issue of Bon Appetit, the No. 1 takeout food in America is pizza: not so surprising. Chinese or other Asian food is a pretty close second. A new favorite comfort food emerges -- ice cream, beating out last year's top choice, pasta (now in third place below cookies).

The 2002 readership survey revealed that the dessert of choice is a sophisticated creme brulee; chocolate chip is the preferred cookie. Home chefs most like to cook regional Italian and traditional American. Favorite casual dish to make is chicken, with pasta close behind; roast beef or pork is the top choice for special-occasion entertaining.

tea for a cause

photoTea manufacturer Celestial Seasonings is selling a new blend of tea and has promised to donate all profits to the American Red Cross. The manufacturer describes Tea for America as an all-natural blend of black tea leaves "similar to those our forefathers tossed into the Boston Harbor in 1773." The tea is sold in "Americana-style" packaging, decorated with folk-art illustrations and bearing patriotic quotes. For more information, call toll-free 1-800-525-0347.

eating out

Food critic Chris Sherman surveys the offerings at St. Petersburg's Bonefish Grill on Thursday in Weekend.

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