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Books that Cook: New York chef offers surprisingly simple tips and techniques
By ELLEN FOLKMAN Welcome to My Kitchen
New York City is famous for a lot of things, and good food is one of them. Welcome to My Kitchen author Tom Valenti has worked at a number of New York's finest restaurants. Through the years he has learned various shortcuts and techniques, among them the importance of organization. Valenti's style is distinctive, relying on his Italian background, which emphasizes slow-cooking techniques like roasting, stewing and braising. The author does a good job of explaining different ingredients and exactly what is important to be successful in making a dish. At the beginning of each chapter, he offers the best tips and thoughts about a particular subject. For example, in the Fish and Shellfish chapter, Valenti shares that the single biggest problem with shellfish is overcooking. His rule is to shave one minute off the cooking time. The bulk of this recipe collection, however, may not appeal to the masses. The Poultry and Game chapter has recipes for game that only the most adventurous home cook may attempt. Sage and Walnut-Stuffed Saddle of Rabbit with Potato Puree, Roast Quail with Barley and Roasted Tomatoes, or Roasted Leg and Loin of Rabbit with Spring Onions and Dry Vermouth Sauce are not practical for a weeknight dinner. Surprisingly, though, the techniques throughout this cookbook are not difficult. The recipe names are far more intimidating -- Peppered Tuna with Parsnip Puree and Smoked Sturgeon with Frisee, Lardons and Poached Egg. Some ingredients may be hard to find and costly. Those with truffles, veal, endive and arugula could be especially expensive. The most pleasing chapters are Vinaigrettes and Mayonnaises and Desserts. The Basic Mayonnaise recipe offers two nice variations -- Roasted Garlic Mayonnaise and Herb Mayonnaise. For dessert, wow your guests with the astonishingly easy and absolutely decadent Molten Chocolate Cake. Maple Creme Brulee, Lemon Pound Cake with Lemon Curd and Blackberry Compote, Chocolate Hazelnut Cake and Napoleon Minute round out the chapter. Molten Chocolate Cake
In a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter together. In a mixing bowl, whip the eggs, egg yolks and sugar together until pale yellow and thick. Pour the chocolate mixture into the egg mixture and whisk until semi-incorporated. Add the flour to the bowl and whisk until all ingredients are just incorporated; take great care not to overmix. Cover the batter and chill in the refrigerator for 2 hours. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Spray six 4-ounce foil ramekins with nonstick spray. Coat the interior of the ramekins with cocoa powder and shake out the excess. Place the batter in a pastry bag (no tip needed) and pipe into the ramekins, or spoon the batter into each ramekin. Bake until just starting to crack on top, 10-12 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 1 minute before turning the cakes out of the ramekins. Serve immediately. Note: This recipe can also be made in a 9-inch springform pan, but it will not be as runny in the center. Adjust the baking time to 22-25 minutes. Serves 4. Source: Welcome to My Kitchen by Tom Valenti. A Real American Breakfast
For years, doctors and nutritionists -- and even our moms -- have told us that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, but busy morning routines make it difficult to savor a hearty breakfast. A Real American Breakfast presents a full plate of recipes -- Raspberry Cream Cheese Coffee Cake, Cinnamon Walnut Crumb Cake or Gingerbread Cake, to name a few -- that, if made in advance, can be eaten on the run. In this collection, everything from old favorites (Eggs Benedict) to modern treats (Baked Creme Brulee French Toast and Chicago-Style Breakfast Pan Pizza) are included. The majority of these recipes are simple to prepare and suited to any ability. The authors also focus on regional cuisine. If you've ever wondered how to make Philadelphia Scrapple, the Tex-Mex dish Migas, or Portsmouth Salt-Cod Hash, A Real American Breakfast will teach you. Color photographs of selected recipes offer inspiration. Breakfast is a fairly easy meal to make. None of the ingredients found in these dishes is difficult to find, and there is no complex preparation. A bonus to this cookbook is the chapter on Wake-Up Drinks. The usual juices are fine, but try perking up your mornings with Pineapple Slush, Breakfast Lemonade or Almond-Vanilla Soda. Healthful fruit smoothies such as Banana-Date Smoothie Shake or Fresh Fruit Smoothie are refreshing any time. Pineapple Slush
Combine the chopped pineapple, coconut milk, coconut cream and lime juice in a blender and puree. Pour into 2 tall glasses, sprinkle with coconut, add pineapple slices to the rims if you wish, and serve. Tiny paper parasols are optional. Variations: Cranberry Slush: Replace the pineapple with 1/2 cup cranberries (again, partially frozen) and 1/2 cup cranberry juice. Increase the amount of cream of coconut a bit, but keep the drink refreshingly tangy. Float a few whole cranberries on top and garnish with a lime slice. Mango Slush: Treat voluptuously ripe mango in the same way, garnishing with the coconut or a lime slice. Source: A Real American Breakfast by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison -- Ellen Folkman's cookbook review column appears monthly in the Taste section.
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