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Chateau redefines 'continental' cuisine
By MARY ANN KOSLASKY, Times Staff Writer INVERNESS -- How does a boy from Citrus County learn all those fancy French terms like Brie on Cruet, Quiche du Jour, buerre blanc and my personal favorite -- creme brulee? For Keith Chancas, 24, owner and chef at Chateau Chan Sezz, it was studying at the Fort Lauderdale Culinary Institute that whetted his palate for foods continental. Chancas prides himself on the quality of his meals, made daily from the freshest ingredients. The cranberry orange scones hot from the oven served with a honey butter made for a sweet introduction to our meal. On one occasion the quiche du jour was tomato. On another visit we chose the potato quiche. While both were light and well presented, they tended to be bland. An infusion of complementary herbs might perk up the egg and vegetable mixture. The grouper papillotte with buerre blanc, a light butter sauce, served on the side was excellent and offered the choice of how much sauce I preferred. The fish sat on a bed of vegetables and was baked in parchment. The fresh grouper tasted delicate, not fishy, and made for a pleasant lunch. Desserts are delectable and offer variety, including three versions of creme brulee. I vote for the double creme brulee, a concoction of rich custard and crunchy caramelized sugar topped with a delicate chocolate mousse over which is drizzled creme anglaise. It was sinfully delicious. Other, more hearty fare and several salads, also dot the menu. Appetizers range from Brie on Cruet to tea biscuits and imported cheese for two. The standard French onion soup is joined by a soup du jour. Check out the 10 gourmet coffees and the 20-plus varieties of tea. The orange spice tea and my companion's raspberry tea were a pleasant change of pace. Service is friendly and the servers knowledgeable about the different dishes. Chancas frequently steps from his kitchen to chat with diners and assure their satisfaction. Prices are commensurate with the exceptional food and service, so expect to pay more than the average Citrus County lunch. Chateau Chan Sezz is in the historic McLeod House. The ambience draws much from its co-resident, Southern Charm by Ninnah. Feathers, beads, flowers and original artwork create an atmosphere of charming gentility. Only two rooms and a tiny kitchen and prep area, Chateau Chan Sezz is a small gem, still a little rough around the edges, but quickly being polished with attention to detail and a definite concern for quality meals and the enjoyment of the diners. If you goChateau Chan Sezz is in the historic McLeod House, 207 N Apopka Ave., Inverness. Hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Friday and dinner 4:30 to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Reservations are not necessary for lunch, but recommended. Seating is limited so dinner reservations are a must. Master Card and Visa are accepted. For reservations, call 344-9900.
 © 2006 • All Rights Reserved • St. Petersburg Times
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