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Books That Cook: Savor the flavors of old Vienna

By ELLEN FOLKMAN
© St. Petersburg Times
published April 10, 2002


Kaffeehaus: Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafes of Vienna, Budapest and Prague

  • By Rick Rodgers
  • Clarkson Potter Publisher; $37.50

A rich tapestry of culture is still celebrated in the legendary cafes of Vienna, Budapest and Prague, including the art of masterful desserts. Author Rick Rodgers brings the best of Austro-Hungarian pastries to Kaffeehaus. While making these treasures yourself, be prepared to learn a little history.

Although Rodgers claims to present the recipes for bakers of all ages, most are geared toward experienced home cooks. The instructions are involved and time consuming.

Each recipe lets you know if it can be made ahead or must be served the day it's prepared. For example, the ladyfingers can be made up to two days ahead for Meringue and Ladyfinger Slices, while Chestnut "Potatoes" can be prepared up to one week in advance. This is a helpful feature if you're planning a party.

Many recipes in Kaffeehaus require another recipe in the cookbook to complete them. To make Coffee Eclairs you must first prepare the cream puff dough on page 14 and the coffee faux fondant icing on page 15 before continuing to the eight steps to finish the recipe. Some of the less intimidating recipes are Banana Gugelhupf and Viennese Pound Cake; however, a Gugelhupf pan is required. (A fluted tube pan would probably work just as well). The easiest of recipes are the hot and cold beverages.

Kaffeehaus is a cookbook that will bring back memories for people well-acquainted with Austro-Hungarian cuisine. However, only the most adventurous of home cooks will be willing to try something found here.

Mulled 'Glow' Wine

  • 2 750-ml bottles of fruity red wine, such as Merlot
  • 2/3 cup fresh orange juice
  • 2 4-inch strips of orange zest
  • 2/3 cup honey
  • 2 3-inch long cinnamon sticks
  • 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise

Heat the ingredients in a large non-reactive pot over very low heat until hot, but not simmering. Keep warm (a slow cooker is the perfect appliance) and serve hot. Makes 10 to 14 servings.

Source: "Kaffeehaus: Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafes of Vienna, Budapest and Prague" by Rick Rodgers (Clarkson Potter Publisher, $37.50)

Cooking Thin with Chef Kathleen

  • By Kathleen Daelemans
  • Houghton Mifflin; $27

Fans of TV Food Network may recognize chef Kathleen Daelemans from the show Cooking Thin. Cooking Thin with Chef Kathleen has 200 easy recipes, many of them from the show, for healthy weight loss. The contents run the gamut from breakfast to dessert and every meal and snack in between.

If those extra holiday pounds are still hanging around, Daelemans can get you on the track to shedding them. The first 80 pages are devoted to beginning weight loss. "Kathleen's 1-2-3 Guide to the Finish Line" addresses subjects such as setting goals, devising an exercise program and attitude adjustment. She is a one-person cheering section; the text reads like a script from a pep rally. About exercising she says, "If you can just make it past week one, horrible hunger pangs, pass-out-tired feelings of fatigue, everything else gets markedly easier."

Orange boxes that accompany every recipe offer shortcuts or alternative serving suggestions. For example, turn Mozzarella-Tomato Sandwich into a hot sandwich by first placing the cheese on bread and broiling it until it is melted. Like doctors and moms everywhere, Daelemans stresses the importance of starting the day with breakfast. Great Granny's Banana Nut Bread, Cranberry Apple Pecan Loaf or Fresh Fruit Smoothie would be delicious ways to begin the day. Cooking Thin offers simple recipes well-suited for families. A meal of Meat Loaf, Buttery Mashed Potatoes and Chocolate Pudding Pie is sure to please. Kids may even try Fast Fried Chicken Tenders, Super Pot Roast Supper and BBQ Spare Ribs. Dessert recipes include Dark Chocolate Cherry Cheesecake, Washington Street Inn's Peach Batter Cobbler and Lemon Loaf, among others. Who knew losing weight could be so delicious?

Source: "Cooking Thin with Chef Kathleen" by Kathleen Daelemans (Houghton Mifflin, $27)

Fast Fried Chicken Tenders

  • 2 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breasts cut into1-inch wide strips, or chicken tenders
  • 1 teaspoon coarse-grained salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon cracked black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  • 2 teaspoons minced garlic
  • 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1 cup fresh bread crumbs
  • 1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 lemon cut into wedges

Season chicken pieces with salt and pepper. In a shallow baking dish, whisk together Dijon mustard, garlic, lemon zest and lemon juice. Add chicken, turning several times to coat evenly. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes or overnight.

Remove chicken pieces from marinade and dredge in bread crumbs, coating evenly.

Place a large, nonstick skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add 1 tablespoon of oil, adding more if necessary. Add chicken and cook until crispy and golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Serve with lemon wedges. Serves 4.

California Wine Country: Bed & Breakfast Cookbook and Travel Guide

  • By Carol Faino and Doreen Kaitfors Hazledine
  • Rutledge Hill Press, $19.99

Thoughts of California wine country conjure up lush rolling hills, manicured vineyards and a touch of romance. California Wine Country Bed & Breakfast Cookbook and Travel Guide showcases all of this and more.

From Santa Barbara to Monterey, Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino, a map of California shows all of the B&B's highlighted in this cookbook. It really is more of a cookbook than a travel guide, as very little information is provided about each inn.

Most inns offer recipes strictly for breakfast. Sonoma Green Chile Eggs, Creamy Baked Breakfast Potatoes, Croissant French Toast a l'Orange and Pumpkin Whole Wheat Pancakes are some of the heartier dishes. On the lighter side try Carol's Cranberry Scones, Budapest Coffee Cake, Peach and Golden Raisin Muffins or Blueberry Orange Bread.

Virtually all of the ingredients are readily available. A stop at a specialty market would be necessary if you plan on making Honey-Cured Bacon-Wrapped Quail; however, it is a relatively easy recipe. No difficult techniques to worry about. The most time-consuming recipe is probably the San Francisco fish stew, Cioppino. Herbs and spices must be minced and chopped, and the fish, clams, mussels and shrimp must be prepared. The broth could be made a day in advance.

Most disappointing is the fact that none of the recipes offer any wine suggestions. These wine country inns all appear to be independently owned and not affiliated with any wineries. However, for those with limited wine knowledge, it would be nice to know what wines would compliment the dishes.

Peach & Golden Raisin Muffins

  • 1 15 1/4-ounce can peach slices, drained
  • 1 egg
  • 1/4 cup vegetable oil
  • 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
  • 1/4 teaspoon almond extract
  • 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 2 teaspoons baking powder
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 1 cup rolled oats (old-fashioned or quick-cooking)
  • 3/4 cup packed brown sugar
  • 1/2 cup golden raisins

Preheat oven to 350. Grease 12 muffin cups. Chop 2 peach slices. Puree the remaining peach slices. (The puree should measure a scant cupful.) In a medium bowl, beat the egg. Combine the egg with the peach puree, oil, vanilla and almond extracts and the grated orange zest. In a large bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and cinnamon. Stir in the rolled oats and brown sugar. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Add the wet mixture to the dry ingredients; stir just until moistened. Gently fold in the chopped peaches and golden raisins. Fill the prepared muffin cups about three-fourths full. Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the muffin cups on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Gently remove the muffins and serve warm.

Makes 12 muffins.

Source: "California Wine Country: Bed & Breakfast Cookbook and Travel Guide" by Carol Faino and Doreen Kaitfors Hazledine (Rutledge Hill Press, $19.99)

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