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Let the river be your guide
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 [Photo: Mary Ann Hemphill] Passengers relax on the sundeck of a riverboat cruising along the Danube. |
By MARY ANN HEMPHILL
© St. Petersburg Times
published May 26, 2002
For a unique view on popular travel destinations, try a river cruise. |
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In Kalocsa, Hungary, I visited the world's only paprika museum.
Diverse attractions, thousands of miles apart, yet they had a common denominator: I saw both during river cruises, the first one on the Yangtze, the other on the Danube.
Travelers can see much of Europe and Russia just by taking river cruises: Central Europe on the Danube and Elbe rivers; northern Europe on the Rhine, Moselle and Main rivers and assorted waterways; France on the Seine, Rhone and Saone; northern Italy on the Po; Portugal on the Douro; Russia on the Volga, Svir, Neva and Don rivers.
My husband and I discovered the essence of river cruising during a seven-night trip on the Danube. Travel is hassle free, relaxing. From our floating hotel's lounge or sun deck we glided peacefully by scenery such as the Danube's Wachau, in lower Austria, where vineyards were turning gold and castles loomed on the cliffs.
As with other river cruises, this one was generally casual, with just a couple of coat-and-tie dinners but no "formal" nights.
It was easier to meet fellow passengers as the boat carried just 150 instead of the thousand or more typical of big cruise ships.
Docks for river boats are usually near the center of town, making shore excursions simple.
New ships and new routes are testimony that river cruises are quickly losing their niche as an "undiscovered way to travel."
Worldwide river cruising had a 20 percent growth rate between 1995 and 2001, according to Ron Santangelo, president of Peter Deilmann Cruises, a major operator.
Torstein Hagen, chairman and CEO of Viking River Cruises says, "On a river boat, the destination is the destination, whereas many cruise lines sell the ship -- its glitz, glamor and endless entertainment -- as the destination."
River cruises typically visit a port each day, focusing on the educational and cultural experiences of the region. Entertainment tends to be of the piano bar type, or local groups brought onboard.
Don't expect casinos or spas, midnight buffets or lots of organized activities.
Meals are in one seating, and tables may be assigned. Some river boats have a choice of entrees at dinner; others have a set menu. Room service is unlikely.
On the Danube trip, the cabin was standard for a river cruiser: smaller than a cruise ship cabin, measuring about 150 square feet. (Standard cabins are 203 square feet on Deilmann's Mozart and 165 square feet on Uniworld's new Seine Princess.)
Our cabin held two sofas that converted to twin beds. It was air conditioned and had large windows, one of which opened. We had a television, a phone and a bathroom with shower.
 [Photo: Mary Ann Hemphill] |
| The ancient port of Honfleur is the starting point for cruises along the Seine, through the Normandy region of France.
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Some river boats, especially the newer ones, have twin beds that can be combined to make a queen-sized bed.
The range of onboard facilities varies. A main lounge with a bar, perhaps also a smaller lounge or a library, are the norm. Deilmann's Mozart and the KD River Cruises of Europe's Heinrich Heine have indoor swimming pools. Uniworld'sSwiss Pearl's indoor pool has a counter-current system. A few ships have outdoor pools.
Swiss Crystal, chartered by Swan Hellenic, has a solarium, a sauna and a whirlpool on deck. Uniworld's Swiss Pearl, River Princess, River Queen and River Empress have fitness centers with saunas and spas. The River Cloud, used by upscale operators Abercrombie & Kent, has a sauna and fitness area and a spacious sun deck with a putting green.
With few exceptions, such as Deilmann's Dresden, river vessels and their tour buses are unable to accommodate wheelchair users: Most river boats do not have elevators, and shore excursions may entail hills or a considerable number of steps.
All Deilmann vessels have infirmaries with doctors, and the Uniworld vessels traveling in Russia have Russian medical doctors onboard.
The largest of these operators is Viking River Cruises. Founded in 1997, with just four vessels, Viking Rivers' fleet has grown to 24 for this season. In 1999 Viking Rivers purchased KD, the oldest passenger line in Europe. KD sails in the heart of Europe, as does Viking Rivers, which also sails in France and Russia.
In a push to be a stronger player in the North American market, Viking Rivers has made several changes in the onboard product. Nine of the line's vessels -- four of them built last year -- use only English onboard, drawing passengers from the United States, Canada and Britain. Smoking is allowed only outside. Meals are lighter, cooked with less salt and fat, and lunch options include salad and sandwich buffets.
KD River Cruises of Europe has been cruising the Rhine for 175 years, and its ships are scheduled to make 195 departures on 12 itineraries on the Rhine and its tributaries this year. It will also sail on other European rivers.
Like Viking Rivers and KD, Peter Deilmann Cruises owns and operates its 10 vessels. With gleaming paneling, Meissen porcelain and Tiffany-style glass, these ships are more elaborately decorated than those of the Viking Rivers fleet.
Deilmann's vessels are rated four- or five-star, out of five, and thus are more expensive. The Princesse de Provence, Prussian Princess, Katharina, Casanova and Frederic Chopin have upper-deck staterooms with French doors.
The newest ship is the 79-passenger, five-star Frederic Chopin, which makes seven-night cruises to nature reserves and birding sites in Germany and Poland and 14-night cruises between Amsterdam and Prague.
Announcements, daily schedules and menus on Deilmann boats are in English and German. "Our passengers are discriminating, seasoned travelers who enjoy the European experience on vessels," says Santangelo, Deilmann's president.
Unlike KD River Cruises, Viking River Cruises and Peter Deilmann, Uniworld does not own its ships. Rather, it charters vessels, often those that have been built to the company's specifications.
Uniworld brought European river cruising into the American travel market in the early 1990s by refining a product that had long been popular with Europeans.
Serba Illich, president and CEO of Uniworld, describes the changes:
"English is the only onboard language. We made the itineraries longer, adjusted the food and service to American tastes by offering lighter meals and by stepping up the pace of service, introduced nonsmoking ships and included all shore excursions in the fare."
The firm adds two new ships each year. Uniworld took more than 25,000 Americans on river cruises in 2001.
Uniworld has 12 ships in Europe and Russia this season. Top-deck cabins on the new 140-passenger River Empress have floor-to-ceiling windows. It sails on the Dutch waterways in the spring, followed by 16-day cruises between Amsterdam and Budapest.
The other new Uniworld ship is the 120-passenger Seine Princess, sailing in France. Its two suites feature bathrooms with both a tub and a shower. Uniworld offers two nine-day itineraries: Holland and Belgium in the summer, and fall foliage and wine along the Rhine and Moselle rivers.
 [Photo: Mary Ann Hemphill] The Moselle River flows past Bernkastel, Germany. |
Cost comparisons
As with ocean cruises, prices vary according to the vessel's level of luxury. You might find some early-booking incentives, or lower fares for shoulder seasons, but don't expect the rampant discounting that prevails in the oceangoing-cruise industry.
The following seven-night Danube River cruise fares have been calculated on a per person, double-occupancy basis, for top-deck cabins during the peak season. For comparison, the following, with one exception, have been priced on a cruise-only basis. Fares do not include gratuities. An asterisk means price includes shore excursions. Second figure is the per diem fare.
KD River Cruises of Europe, aboard the Heinrich Heine: $2,240* ($320).
Peter Deilmann Cruises, Danube Princess: $2,275 ($325); Mozart: $2,995 ($428).
Uniworld, River Princess: $2,123 ($303).
Viking River Cruises, Viking Pride and Viking Neptune: $2,296* ($328).
 [Photo: American Classic Voyages] The famed paddlewheeler Delta Queen voyages along mid America’s rivers. |
-- Freelance writer Mary Ann Hemphill lives in Newport Beach, Calif.
For travel close to home
You can check out our state on the Great Rivers of Florida cruise, a 7-night excursion on American Cruise Lines' 49-passenger American Glory or American Eagle. The round-trip voyage travels from Amelia Island along the St. Johns River to Sanford, with several planned stops. Contact American Cruise Lines, toll-free 1-800-814-6880. Cost for a standard room is $2,520 per person, based on double occupancy (single rates and early booking discounts are available). The price includes meals.
Elsewhere
For overall information, check out www.smallshipcruises.com, which has a special section on river cruises. Among lines offering river cruises are these:
Abercrombie & Kent International, 1520 Kensington Road, Oak Brook, IL 60523-2141; toll-free 1-800-323-7308; the Web site is www.abercrombiekent.com. Company ships sail in Europe on the Rhine, Main, Moselle, Danube, Po, Seine, Volga and Neva rivers, among others. Its vessels also cruise on the Amazon, Nile, Yangtze and Ayeyarwady, which is in Myanmar.
Adventure Cruises, 14405 SE Ellis St., Portland, OR 97236; toll-free 1-800-613-2789; www.adventurecruises.com. It cruises on the North American rivers, the Columbia and Snake, as well as Alaska's inside passage and the Sea of Cortez.
American Safari Cruises, 19101 36th Ave. W, Suite 201, Lynnwood, WA 98036; toll-free 1-888-862-8881; www.amsafari.com. It sails the California Wine Country among other places.
American Canadian Caribbean Lines, P.O. Box 368, Warren, RI 02885; toll-free 1-800-556-7450; www.accl-smallships.com. In North America its vessels cruise the Erie Canal, Saguenay and Hudson rivers, the Intracoastal Waterway, and several rivers between Chicago and New Orleans.
Clipper Cruises, 11969 Westline Industrial Drive, St. Louis, MO 63146-3220; toll-free 1-800-325-0010; www.clippercruise.com. In North America, on the St. Lawrence River and Seaway, the Intracoastal Waterway, Hudson River and Northern California waterways. In South America, the Orinoco River.
Cruise West, 2401 Fourth Ave., Suite 700, Seattle, WA 98121-1438; toll-free 1-800-580-0072; www.cruisewest.com. In North America, California Wine Country and the Sacramento Ship Canal, and the Columbia and Snake rivers.
Deilmann Cruises, 1800 Diagonal Road, Suite 170, Alexandria, VA 22314; toll-free 1-800-348-8287; www.deilmann-cruises.com. In Europe, on the Danube, Rhine, Moselle, Oder, Moldau, Main, Elbe, Po, and Saone rivers.
Delta Queen Steamboat Co., 30 Robin Street Wharf, New Orleans, LA 70130-1890; toll-free 1-800-543-1949; www.deltaqueen.com. In North America, the Mississippi, Ohio, Cumberland, Tennessee and Kanawha rivers.
eWaterways.com, 140 E 56th St., Suite 4C, New York, NY 10022; toll-free 1-800-546-4777; www.ewaterways.com. In Europe, the Danube, Rhine, Moselle, Main, Elbe, Moldau and Saone rivers.
GlobalQuest, 185 Willis Avenue, Second Floor, Mineola, NY 11501; toll-free 1-800-221-3254; www.globalquesttravel.com. In Europe, the Rhine, Danube, Saar, Moselle, Main, Neckar, Saone, Seine, Po, Volga, Svir and Neva rivers, plus waterways of Holland. In North America, California's Wine Country.
Grand Circle Travel; 347 Congress St., Boston MA 02210; toll-free 1-800-955-1034; www.gct.com. In Europe, the Rhine, Main, Moselle, Danube, Seine and Saone rivers, waterways of Belgium and Holland. Also the Yangtze and Nile.
Intrav, 11969 Westline Industrial Drive, St. Louis, MO 63146-3220; toll-free 1-800-456-8100; www.intrav.com. In Europe, the Danube, Main, Rhine, Moselle, Neckar, Douro, Saone, Volga, Svir and Neva rivers, plus waterways of Holland and Belgium and of the Scottish Glens. Also, the Yangtze, Orinoco and Nile rivers, the waterways of northern California, St. Lawrence Seaway, Intracoastal Waterway and Hudson River.
Inta-Aussie Tours, 9841 Airport Blvd., Suite 1402, Los Angeles, CA 90045; toll-free 1-800-531-9222; www.inta-aussie.com. In Australia, the Murray River on a sternwheeler.
KD River Cruises of Europe, J.F.O. CruiseService Corp., 2500 Westchester Ave., Suite 113, Purchase, NY 10577; toll-free 1-800-346-6525; www.rivercruises.com. In Europe, the Rhine, Moselle, Main, Elbe, Saar, Danube, Saone, Seine, Volga, Svir and Neva.
Linblad Expeditions Inc., 720 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10019; toll-free 1-800-397-3348; www.expeditions.com. In Africa, the Nile, and in North America, the Columbia, Willamette and Snake rivers.
MaupinWaterways (Maupintour): 10650 W. Charleston Blvd., Summerlin, NV 89135; toll-free 1-800-255-4266; www.maupintour.com. In Europe, the Saone, Seine, Danube, Po, Volga, Svir and Neva, plus Dutch waterways.
MTS, P.O. Box 707, Madang, 511 Papua New Guinea; call 011-675-852-2276; www.meltours.com. The Sepik River in Papua New Guinea.
Odysseys Unlimited, 85 Main St., Suite 101, Watertown, MA 02472; toll-free 1-888-370-6765; www.odysseys-unlimited.com. In Europe, the Rhine, Main and Danube. In North America, the Columbia and Snake. Also the Nile and the Yangtze.
Regal China Cruises: 57 W 38th St., New York, NY 10018; toll-free 1-800-808-3388; www.regalchinacruises.com. The Yangtze.
RiverBarge Excursion Lines Inc., 201 Opelousas Ave., New Orleans, LA 70114; toll-free 1-888-456-2206; www.riverbarge.com; The R/B River Explorer is two, connected, 295-foot river barges, propelled by a towboat. It carries 198 passengers. The Mississippi, Ohio, Missouri and Cumberland rivers, plus waterways between Matamoros, Mexico, and New Orleans.
Swan Hellenic, 631 Commack Road, Suite 1A, Commack, NY 11725; toll-free 1-877-219-4239; www.swanhellenic.com. The Rhine, Danube and Main rivers.
Uniworld Cruises, 17323 Ventura Blvd., Encino, CA 91316; toll-free 1-800-360-9550; www.cruiseuniworld.com. Dutch and Belgian waterways; the Rhine, Moselle, Main, Danube, Elbe, Douro, Saone, Seine, Po, Volga, Svir, Neva and Don rivers, the Nile and Yangtze.
Viking River Cruises: 21820 Burbank Blvd., Woodland Hills, CA 91367; toll-free 1-800-707-1287; www.vikingrivercruises.com. The Rhine, Main, Danube, Elbe, Saone, Seine, Volga, Svir, Neva and the Dnjepr rivers, plus the waterways of Holland and Belgium.
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