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The Nibbler: A generous helping from a patron
By CHRIS SHERMAN, Times Staff Writer
If you're one of those diners who loves to make special requests of the kitchen, you're going to love this story. And if you're a chef, you might find reason to put up with those demands, or at least cross your fingers. Almost anyone on either side of the kitchen door, however, will be cheered to know that unexpected generosity and not-so random acts of kindness do still occur. They happened 10 years ago to Chris Ponte when he was cooking at the Pepper Mill in Clearwater.
Such changes and substitutions, whether for health reasons or pure whimsy, can aggravate a busy kitchen, where dishes flow in some routine order, but Ponte was flexible. It was a Sunday night, "I was like, okay, but it wasn't real tough. He wasn't asking for things that were impossible." After weeks of such service, the customer asked to meet the chef, thanked him and they began to talk. What would the young man like to do in the future? Like many young chefs, he had a fantasy of studying in France. The diner, a Long Island, N.Y., retiree named John Manning, made it happen. Manning, who was active in his church choir but had no local family, gave the chef money as if he was his son. The next year Ponte had quit his job and was studying at the Cordon Bleu in Paris. In 1994 he graduated at the top of his class, at a cost he now figures at more than $100,000. His success at school led him to an apprenticeship at Paris' famed Taillevent restaurant and then back to the United States where he worked last as a private chef (for financier Leon Black for two years) and then with New York's top French restaurants, Daniel, Cafe Boulud and Payard patisserie. Manning has since died and Ponte has returned to Tampa Bay. His initial plan was to open a high-end restaurant in downtown Tampa with Lowrey, his former employer, but the deal fell through. Instead, they will open Cafe Ponte, a modern Mediterranean restaurant, in the ICOT Center in Clearwater, 13505 ICOT Blvd., next month. Ponte promises the menu will incorporate the smoke of a wood-fired oven, flavors of Asia and the lessons of Europe, good ingredients and long, patient cooking. And it will be big enough for the special memory of John Manning and a chef who doesn't object to special requests. Tampa Bay BouillabaisseStewing in our pot this week: Coming to downtown St. Petersburg's never-ending show this summer: Sasa, a sushi bar with Japanese and Vietnamese cuisine, is set to open Monday in the former home of the Nimble Rabbit, Blue Moon and Stone Soup on Fourth Street N. Later this summer Central City Bean coffeehouse opens in the Snell Arcade, with coffee, pastries and, the signs promise, scones. Monstah Lobstah, which tossed takeout lobsters and steamers from Maine into Carrollwood's dinner pots, has opened a second location in South Tampa, 3409 W Bay to Bay Blvd., this time with barstool seating for lobster rolls and chowdah lunches, as well as a big tank crawling with live ones. The store steams lobsters from 1-1/4 pounds up to monstrous 10 pounders at market price, depending on size; last week the big ones (over 3 pounds) were going for $10 a pound.
 © 2006 • All Rights Reserved • St. Petersburg Times
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From the Times Taste section From the features wire |
Almost every Sunday night an older man came in for dinner, usually with his aunt -- "They sat at Table 21" owner Nancy Lowrey remembers -- and always had to have something different. She needed low-fat, low-salt dishes, and he had complicated needs, too. Nothing spicy, his food baked, not broiled or sauteed, and at one time could eat only broth soups. "We had to take the onions out of the onion soup," for example, Ponte says.
