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Cooking with an American accent

©Associated Press
July 31, 2002


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[AP photo]
Bobby Flay Cooks American includes a recipe, below, that starts with an all-American fruit, watermelon, and ends with a new twist on the martini.

Anyone who has traveled in the United States knows that American cuisine expands far beyond the iconic hamburger and apple pie. Ingredients and techniques vary, based on what is grown locally and traditions that often date to early settlers. Many new books take a closer look at the diverse fare America offers, from New England stews to Southwestern fajitas.

American Regional Cuisine (Wiley, $45) by the Art Institutes. This tome goes through the United States region by region and offers traditional dishes. The book also offers background and detailed history from each area. Many of the recipes are traditional, such as New England clam chowder and grilled vegetable gazpacho; others are slightly more exotic, for example, Wisconsin cheese and beer soup and mango chutney.

American Classics (Boston Common, $29.95). The editors of Cook's Illustration became what they called "culinary archaeologists" in order to find the best recipes for traditional American food. Setting aside such concerns as calories and fat, they sought to find the best ways to make classics such as lobster rolls, coconut cream pie and corn muffins. The explanations of the dishes are often witty and detailed, proof that editors see their readers as intelligent gourmands.

Bobby Flay Cooks American (Hyperion, $34.95) by Bobby Flay with Julia Moskin. The host of the Food Network's Hot Off the Grill and Food Nation conceived new twists on favorite American grill dishes and put them together in a wonderfully illustrated book. He also includes special menus for Thanksgiving and the Fourth of July that include cranberry martinis and pumpkin bread pudding with molasses whipped cream.

A Month of Sundaes (Red Rock, $19.95) by Michael Turback. Turback believes that the sundae is the "great American treat" and has collected 150 recipes from around the country in this selection that is part cookbook and part ode to the ice cream dessert.

American Pie (HarperCollins, $23.95) by Pascale Le Draoulec. Le Draoulec explores America's relationship with pie with a journalist's instinct and curiosity. This book, more memoir than cookbook, takes readers across the country and into some forgotten corners that are connected through this one dessert.

This recipe from Bobby Flay Cooks American (Hyperion, $34.95) takes a basic American fruit, watermelon, and adds a shot of vodka with a twist of lemon for a slushy martini.

Frozen Watermelon Martinis

  • 5 cups watermelon pieces, seeds removed
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • 1-1/4 cups vodka
  • 2 ounces melon liqueur (optional)
  • 8 lemon twists, for garnish

In a food processor, puree the watermelon until very smooth, about 4 to 5 minutes. Pour the pureed watermelon into two empty ice cube trays and freeze for at least four hours. Freeze martini glasses before serving. Bring the sugar and water to a boil in a small saucepan and cook until the sugar has dissolved. Let cool. When ready to serve, combine the frozen watermelon cubes, 1/4 cup simple syrup, lemon juice, vodka and liqueur in a blender and blend until smooth. Taste for sweetness and add more simple syrup if necessary. Pour into glasses and garnish each with a lemon twist.

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