dish

Compiled by Janet K. Keeler from staff and wire reports
© St. Petersburg Times
published October 2, 2002

A weekly serving of food news and views

deconstructing
explanations from the inside out

creme fraiche

This soured, cultured cream is a staple in French cuisine. The luscious, silken cream is used as a topping for desserts and fresh fruits. Creme fraiche, which means fresh cream in French and is pronounced KREM FRESH, doesn't curdle when heated so it is often used in sauces and soups to add body and depth.

Creme fraiche has less bite but the same appearance as sour cream. In France, creme fraiche is made with unpasteurized cream, the substance that floats to the top of fresh milk. The cream is skimmed off and allowed to sit, or ferment, for a day or so. The bacteria in the unpasteurized cream facilitates fermentation, which thickens the cream.

In the United States, all commercial cream is pasteurized so a fermenting agent, usually buttermilk, must be introduced. Creme fraiche isn't easy to find so many home cooks make their own by heating a cup of heavy cream and 1 tablespoon of buttermilk to lukewarm in a saucepan. It shouldn't simmer or boil. Remove from heat, cover and let sit for eight to 24 hours, depending on desired taste or thickness. The longer the mixture ferments, the thicker and more tangy it becomes.

Refrigerate homemade creme fraiche for one week. Store-bought versions will last about two weeks. Look for creme fraiche at specialty food markets or in the refrigerated organic dairy section of larger grocery stores.

constant comment

"Go into the kitchen to shake the chef's hand. If he is thin, have second thoughts about eating there; if he is thin and sad, flee." -- French chef Fernand Point (1897-1955)

cooking class

When melted butter is called for in cakes, quick breads or batters, try cooking it until it turns golden brown. The browned butter gets a nutty flavor that adds richness. Don't leave it on the burner until it smokes, though, because it will be burned seconds after. Browned butter is a classic drizzle over pumpkin ravioli, winter squashes and mild-flavored fish.

this web site cooks

www.globalgourmet.com/digest

Strapped for time? Then stay away from the NetFood Directory and its dozens of culinary links on the Recipe Link Server. Topics range from African to Ayurvedic and wines to woks. Under recipe collections, you'll stumble upon thousands of tried-and-true family formulas, tenderly documented by individuals Alan, Alicia, Angie and Aunt Libby and organizations such as Australia's Woolworth's and Wegman's Supermarkets.

Fall for flavor

Here's a Honey Spiced Cider from the National Honey Board to make when fall finally arrives in Florida: Combine 5 cups of apple cider and 3/4 cup honey in a saucepan and stir over medium heat until the honey dissolves. Slice two small navel oranges into quarters and push three whole cloves into the rind of each slice. Add the slices to the cider along with seven cinnamon sticks, a 4-inch strip of lemon zest and 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg. Simmer on low heat, covered, for 20 minutes. Remove fruit and spices and serve hot. Makes eight servings.

mom, dad and lunch

Kids can remember those they love when they open Tupperware's new Picture Perfect lunch bags. The bags come with a space that holds a 4-inch-by-6-inch photo or note. They are available in two color combinations and retail for $19.99. To order, call toll-free 1-888-919-8099 or visit www.tupperware.com.

[Walt Disney]

what we think

Here are a few findings of Food & Wine's online food survey:

• Seventy-five percent of respondents think a man should pay for dinner if he has invited a woman on a date.
• Close to 50 percent of Americans said the most annoying thing a couple on a date can do while dining at a restaurant is to feed each other.
• The spaghetti scene in Lady and the Tramp took home 45 percent of the votes as the "Favorite Movie Moment Involving Food."

Dinner tonight

Wondering what you'll make for dinner this evening? How about hamburgers? Seriously, for a nation that loves fast-food burgers, we've lost the taste for a juicy, homemade version. Get some ground beef, smoosh it into big round patties and toss on the grill or into a skillet. Round up the usual accompaniments or try something new under the bun. Our current favorite? Thinly sliced cucumbers, mayo and a healthy dose of feta cheese. Serve with corn on the cob, sliced tomatoes and baked beans.

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