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Hearts in armor
By JANET K. KEELER, Times Staff Writer
The prickly artichoke looks more like a medieval weapon than something to serve for dinner. Anchor a chain to its stem, swing it overhead and imagine the damage to follow. Ask any supermarket checker. They've learned to gingerly handle plastic bags of artichokes to avoid nasty stabs from the single thorn at the tip of each leaf. Still, an occasional ouch emanates from consumer and seller. But, oh, they hurt so good. Don't judge this vegetable by its intimidating look. Kitchen scissors disarm the artichoke by snipping off the thorny leaf tips. Then comes the good part. The flip side of those tough leaves is succulent and earthy, but it's the heart of the artichoke that is the most delectable. The meaty center is the reward for your battle scars. To get past the artichoke's threatening demeanor, think about its ancestry. It's a descendant of the thistle and a member of the sunflower family. The vegetable we eat is a bud of the plant's flower. If left to bloom, the blossom measures up to 7 inches and is a violet blue. That sounds more elegant than Elvira, doesn't it? At our house, we steam artichokes until the stem is soft, about 40 minutes. Eating undercooked artichokes is akin to chewing bark. Each person gets one, sometimes two, and we tear them leaf by leaf, dipping the tender petals into melted butter. I like them with mayonnaise, too, and sometimes a squeeze of lemon. That is the way the California purists cook and dress them, especially those who live near Castroville, America's artichoke capital. About 90 percent of the U.S. crop is grown in expansive Monterey County, better known for its aquarium and the tony hamlet of Carmel.
Eating an artichoke can be indelicate. Forget the knife and fork for most of it. Hold a leaf by the narrow end, dip it in something, if you like, and scrape the wide end between your upper and lower teeth to pull off the earthy meat. Eventually, you'll winnow away the leaves and be left with the heart, concealed by yellow leaves and the fuzzy "choke." Discard the small, soft leaves and scoop out the fuzz with a spoon. Now you're at the core of the artichoke. At 11/2 inches around and maybe an inch thick, the heart won't feed an army. It's a solo treat, and most artichoke eaters get a little selfish when it comes to the heart. You want a bite of mine? I don't think so. I cut it into four pieces, savoring each creamy, woodsy bite. Here's the weirdest thing about artichokes: They are kid friendly. I know children who love artichokes for their tactile attributes. How fun to be required to use your fingers when eating vegetables. And then to get to the center and find a prize? Way to go, Mother Nature. You've got two chances a year to eat artichokes, hearty producers that yield a spring and a fall crop. Look for large artichokes that seem heavy for their size. They should not be bruised, but some black or brown markings are fine on a green artichoke. You won't find a perfect one. Store fresh artichokes in the refrigerator, with the stem wrapped in damp paper towels (shave a quarter inch off the stem before wrapping). They can be eaten hot, warm or cold, and leftover artichokes are easily reheated in the microwave. It's best not to boil them or they get waterlogged. Canned or frozen artichokes are a great addition to quiches and omelets. The leaves of canned artichokes can be chewy, so it's best to trim the ends before using. Keep jars of marinated artichokes in your pantry to jazz up tossed salads. The Italian immigrant families of California's central valley regularly serve artichoke (or zucchini) torta at Christmas gatherings and wedding receptions. This baked finger food of eggs, cheese, chopped artichoke hearts, bread crumbs and garlic is a tasty offering on a buffet and is a good make-ahead dish. Executive chef Darrell Brown at Maggiano's Little Italy is showcasing the artichoke with a stuffed artichoke appetizer. The basis of the stuffing is diced herb focaccia sauteed with garlic, celery and other spices. The savory melange is packed into a blanched artichoke that's been defuzzed. Steaming marries the artichoke and stuffing. The appetizer will be on the menu through November at the WestShore Plaza restaurant. Brown shares the recipe with Taste readers, also. Artichokes are worth the trouble it takes to bring them to the table. They aren't the prettiest veggie at the ball, but boy, do they know how to dance. Steamed Artichokes
Wash the artichokes. Using a cleaver or large knife, slice off the top 1 to 2 inches of the cone of leaves. Using kitchen shears, snip off the tips of any remaining leaves that have thorns. Rub 1/4 of the lemon over the cut portions. Either cut off the stem even with the base of the artichoke or leave the stem on (it is as tasty as the heart) after slicing off a quarter-inch of the end. Peel the outer layer of skin on the stem with a small paring knife or vegetable peeler. Rub the cut or peeled parts with more of the lemon quarters. Place the artichokes in a steamer basket set over 1 to 2 inches of water in the bottom of a large kettle. The cut side should be toward the water, with the stem end up. Cover and put the kettle on the stove. Turn the heat on high. When steam starts to escape, turn down the heat to maintain a slow boil. Check the water every 10 minutes or so, refilling if necessary so the pan doesn't boil dry. After 30 minutes, test the artichokes for doneness. If you cut the stems off, poke the stem end with a sharp knife; the knife should enter easily. If you left the stems on, poke the knife into the joint where the stem meets the body. After the knife test, pull an outer leaf off the artichoke and taste it by scraping the leaf between your upper and lower teeth. The flesh should be soft and come off easily. An artichoke with a 3-inch diameter should be done in about 30 minutes; larger ones can take another 10 minutes. Cook an additional 5 minutes if the artichoke seems underdone. Serve hot with lemon wedges for the calorie-conscious, or with melted butter for the rest. Cold artichokes are great with mayonnaise or salad dressing. Serves 4. Nutritional analysis per artichoke: 70 calories, 0 fat, 16gm carbohydrates, 5gm protein, 0 cholesterol, 135mg sodium. Source: Knight Ridder Newspapers. Fettuccine With Sage Butter, Bacon and Artichokes
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for pasta. Melt butter in large skillet over medium-low heat. Add sage leaves and cook, stirring often, until butter begins to brown slightly and sage begins to crisp, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add bacon and artichoke hearts, and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Boil fettuccine until tender but still firm. Drain and add to sauce in skillet. Sprinkle in cheese and a generous grinding of black pepper, and toss with tongs. Taste and season with salt, if necessary. Tilt pasta onto a large warm platter or divide it among individual pasta bowls. Makes 4 servings. Nutritional analysis per serving: 770 calories, 32gm fat, 85mg cholesterol, 870mg sodium, 91gm carbohydrate, 4gm fiber, 30gm protein. Source: American Butter Institute.
Maggiano's Stuffed Artichoke
Blanching liquid:
Stuffing:
Trim artichokes according to accompanying Steamed Artichoke recipe. Set aside. To prepare blanching liquid, saute garlic in olive oil in a pot large enough to hold six artichokes. Add water and lemon juice, bay leaf and salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes, covered. Place trimmed artichokes in boiling blanching liquid and cover. Cook for about 20 minutes, turning them over halfway through. Remove artichokes and place them upside down to drain. While artichokes are cooking, beging stuffing preparation. Bake diced focaccia on sheet pan in 350-degree oven until lightly toasted. Cool completely. In large heavy bottom skillet, heat butter over medium heat until melted. Saute onions and celery until translucent. Season with salt and pepper, and add garlic and herbs. Cook 1 to 2 minutes more. In large bowl, combine sauteed vegetables, focaccia and Parmesan. Slowly add chicken broth and mix well. Cool completely. When artichokes are cooled, pull out the center leaves and scoop out the fuzzy choke; discard. Gently spread apart the leaves and stuff the artichoke with about 1/4 cup of the filling. Then, starting at the lowest leaves, place a tablespoon of filing inside every leaf. Stuff each layer, leaf by leaf, working toward the center of the artichoke. Sprinkle with paprika. The artichokes can be assembled one day ahead, wrapped well and stored in the refrigerator. To heat, steam the artichokes until very hot in the center. This can be done in the microwave by putting a small amount of water in a microwavable container and covering loosely with plastic warp. Heat on 75 percent power for 3 to 5 minutes, depending on whether they are room temperature or refrigerated. Serves 6. Source: Maggiano's Little Italy. Artichoke Torta
Boil frozen artichokes according to package directions, 15 to 20 minutes or until soft. Cool, then chop finely. Mix garlic, onion and parsley, and set aside. Beat eggs in large bowl until frothy. Add all ingredients except butter. Pour batter into a 9- by 13-inch baking dish that has been lightly greased with olive oil or nonstick vegetable spray. Bake in preheated 325 degree oven for 45 to 50 minutes until golden brown. Let cool and cut into 1-1/2-inch squares. The torta is best served warm at room temperature. Serves 10 as an appetizer. Source: Janet K. Keeler, Times food editor.
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