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DISH: A weekly serving of food news and views

By Janet K. Keeler from staff and wire reports
© St. Petersburg Times
published October 16, 2002


deconstructing
explanations from the inside out

doughnuts

photo The doughnut is quintessentially American -- not because it was born here -- but because it is an immigrant.

Yeast doughnuts most likely originated in Holland and Germany, where creative cooks dropped leftover bread dough into boiling oil. A sprinkle of sugar transformed them from savory to sweet.

Pilgrims brought the technique to the New World and found something similar in American Indian fry breads.

Some food historians think that Northern European bakers were inspired by "jumbles," cakes and cookies with holes in the middle, and that's how the circular doughnut came to be.

However, in a house in Rockport, Maine, hangs a plaque recognizing Hanson Crockett Gregory, a sea captain, as the guy with the big idea. Regardless, John Blondell was awarded the patent for the first doughnut cutter in 1872.

The two types of doughnuts are yeast and cake. Yeast doughnuts, such as crullers and glazed, are lighter because of the air between the layers. Cake doughnuts are heavier like, well, cake. They are leavened by baking soda or powder, not yeast.

The doughnut's immigrant story continues today for many northern transplants in Florida. Doughnuts and apple cider will surely remind them of the changing leaves back home.

constant comment

"You cannot sell a blemished apple in the supermarket, but you can sell a tasteless one provided it is shiny, smooth, even, uniform and bright." -- Author Elspeth Huxley (1906-1997)

cooking class

photo It's a good idea to inventory your spices before the craziness of the holidays is upon you. Make sure that your cinnamon still smells like cinnamon. Likewise cloves, allspice, nutmeg and pumpkin pie spice. Toss out any spices more than 2 years old and buy new. To make your own pumpkin pie spice, mix 3 teaspoons cinnamon, 1 teaspoon allspice, 1 teaspoon cloves and 1 teaspoon nutmeg.

this web site cooks

www.morethangourmet.com

Don't you just hate it when a recipe that sounds so scrumptious calls for a classic French ingredient such as jus de poulet lie or graisse de canard? (That would be roasted chicken stock and rendered duck fat.) If, in fact, you do make dishes that call for those kinds of ingredients, this online shop sells them. Morethangourmet.com, with offices in Ohio, the Netherlands and Singapore, offers a variety of classic French stocks. Prices range from about $5 for a concentrate that makes 1 cup of sauce to $30 for larger quantities.

comfort foodie

photo TV chef Graham Kerr is rivaling Madonna in the recreation department. After the tipsy times on The Galloping Gourmet and the low-fat days on Graham Kerr's Kitchen, the affable cook is now exploring comfort foods. His new PBS show, Gathering Place, debuts at 11 a.m. Oct. 31 on WUSF. The show, which runs through March, highlights home recipes from many cuisines.

juice boost

R.W. Knudsen's new blueberry nectar is made with blueberry, apple and white grape juice and can be used to flavor smoothies and snow cones, or enjoyed in a glass. Don't forget, research has shown blueberries contain antioxidants that may help fight cancer. The juice is available in 32-ounce bottles at natural-food stores and selected supermarkets nationwide for about $3.

eat more produce

How does nine-a-day sound instead of the traditional five? Experts now say some Americans need to eat nine servings of fruit and vegetables a day to help prevent diseases such as cancer and high blood pressure. The Department of Agriculture and Department of Health and Human Services say children 2 to 6 should eat five servings of produce a day, children older than 6 and active women and teens should eat seven and active teen boys and men should eat nine.

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