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DISH: A weekly serving of food news and views

By JANET K. KEELER, Times Staff Writer
© St. Petersburg Times
published October 23, 2002


deconstructing
explanations from the inside out

candy corn

photo

Candy corn is a seasonal treat that you either love or hate. To detractors, the tricolor kernels are too sweet, too waxy and cling to the teeth like a 2-year-old to his mother during his first Halloween adventure.

To those who love it, though, there's nothing better than a handful of candy corn to remind them of the days when they ran from house to house gathering candy and tripping on the tail, hem or train of their costume.

photo Candy corn has been a Halloween staple for more than 100 years. We eat an impressive 20-million pounds of it a year, and 75 percent of that is the traditional white, yellow and orange variety. Indian corn, which is chocolate and vanilla flavored, reindeer corn (red, green and white) and cupid corn (red, pink and white) make up the rest.

The first commercial producer was the Wunderle Candy Co. of Philadelphia. By 1898, the Goelitz Confectionary Co. of Cincinnati had started candy corn production and today is the company most closely associated with it. Farley Candy of Chicago is also a primary producer.

At the turn of the century, candy manufacturing wasn't as mechanized as it is now. Gustav Goelitz and his workers mixed the basic candy corn ingredients -- sugar, water and corn syrup -- in large kettles. Fondant, to make the mixture smooth, and marshmallow, for softness, was added. The hot mixture was poured into kernel molds in three stages, one for each color. At the time, the candy was considered revolutionary.

photo Gustav's son, Herman, started his own candy corn-making company in Fairfield, Calif., during World War II. His primary product? Candy corn.

It seems as if sugar is still running through the blood of the Goelitz family. Descendent Herman Rowland is one of the founders of the Jelly Belly candy company in Fairfield, now offering 150 flavors of jelly beans. No surprise, but it makes candy corn, too.

constant comment

"Everybody's a pacifist between wars. It's like being a vegetarian between meals." -- Columnist Colman McCarthy in the Washington Post

this web site cooks

www.southernfood.about.com/library/holiday/blhwidx.htm

Trick or treat, don't smell their feet, give them something good to eat from this recipe Web site's clever collection. Cobweb Cookies, Hobgoblin Mud Pie and Wormy Apples celebrate the season and the Martha in you. There also are links to other Halloween Web sites. Utterly ghoulish.

cooking class

For more control when using tongs, grasp the tongs near the tips rather than back near the spring.

stone crab

The season for this delectable Florida favorite began last week and continues through May 15. Expect to see the claws on restaurant menus, at seafood markets and at grocery stores. You buy them cooked and can heat them or eat them cold. The most popular dipping sauce is mustard-based, and you can make it by mixing 3-1/2 teaspoons of dry mustard with 1 cup of mayonnaise. Add 2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce, 1 teaspoon A1 Sauce, 1/8 cup light cream or half and half, and 1/8 teaspoon salt. That's the way they make it at Joe's Stone Crab in Miami. Chill for several hours to let flavors meld.

let the party be with you

Just in time for Halloween, The Star Wars Party Book (Lucasfilm Ltd., 2002) comes along with more ideas than you can shake a light saber at. How about Wookiee Cookies? Or a Darth Malt? Author Mikyla Bruder goes for the funny bone (Death Star Pinata) and the taste buds (Tauntaun Toasties). There are costumes and game ideas as well as recipes.

plenty of pomegranates

photo Look for a bumper crop of pomegranates this season, thanks to near-perfect weather in California. The Pomegranate Council says 1.1-million boxes will be shipped from the state this fall, up from 850,000 last year. Choose pomegranates that are heavy for their size, without cracks or splits. Use seeds to bring color, flavor and texture to salads, entrees and desserts. The juice can be used to enhance drinks and desserts. For more tips, visit www.pomegranates.org.

seasonal seeds

photo The Fertile Hand dresses up tasty pumpkin seeds, or pepitas, for a healthful snack. The seeds are roasted and then blended with all-natural ingredients. In four flavors: spicy garlic, extra-hot spicy garlic, sweet cinnamon and chocolate covered. Tasters enjoyed them all. A 4-ounce bag is $4.99. For information, log on to www.thefertilehand.com or call (201) 797-4794.

-- Compiled by Janet K. Keeler, from staff and wire reports

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