The myth of Ybor all wrong

By SUSAN THURSTON, Times Staff Writer
© St. Petersburg Times
published November 15, 2002

Last weekend, I partied in Ybor City. Ditto for three weeks ago. And ditto for next week, I'm sure.

I admit it. I'm a 35-year-old who can't get enough of Ybor.

All this talk about restyling Ybor and making it more palatable to the masses makes me as queasy as a night of cheap draught beer. Especially when it comes from people who don't step foot in the place after dark.

Ybor is what it is. Take it or leave it. Sure, cops can crack down on underage drinking and illegal parking. But when people make suggestions that the loud music is rattling the old bricks, that's when I start to worry.

Not that I'm not saying Ybor is perfect. Nothing is. But where else can you go in Tampa for a guaranteed good time? Channelside? Not yet. International Plaza? Depends on which bar is in fashion.

When friends and family come to town, I take them to Ybor. They marvel at the historic buildings, muse about the cigar factory beginnings and delight in the choices of bars and restaurants.

Tampa's got character, they say before schlepping off to Disney World. Flavor. Reminds us of New Orleans. (Wait 'til they see the street cars.)

But let's face it. Winning over tourists isn't tough. Everything seems good on vacation.

The real challenge lies with the locals who brush off Ybor as too young, too rowdy and too idiotic for anyone with any intelligence.

Here are some excuses, and reasons to forget them.

MYTH: Only 20-somethings in tight skirts or droopy pants go to Ybor.

REALITY: Yes, the big nightclubs -- Amphitheater, Empire and Masquerade -- cater to the young crowd which lines up in the streets for watered-down Seabreezes in plastic cups. But a closer look inside some of the smaller bars shows an older side of Ybor.

Green Iguana beckons bearded bikers and businessmen. Demmi's Market plays Sinatra.

"You can always find an old person around," said 37-year-old Mike Schultz of Brandon, a 15-year Ybor veteran.

The Blue Devil Tattoo Gallery can vouch. More than one-third of its customers are 40 and up; the majority are over 30. It seems you're never too old for dying your body.

MYTH: Ybor is way too dangerous.

REALITY: Not according to police. On any given weekend night, Ybor has 20 officers keeping the peace, plus a handful more hired by bars.

On average, police make 15 to 20 arrests a night. Most are misdemeanors involving booze or drugs.

"When you're dealing with thousands and thousands of visitors that's pretty small," said police spokesman Joe Durkin.

MYTH: Ybor is just about drinking.

REALITY: Don't tell that to local chefs. Unless of course you want your food sabotaged.

Ybor is full of quality places to eat, ranging from crowd pleasers like Big City Tavern to local haunts like the Laughing Cat.

And don't forget the Columbia, ground zero for dining in Tampa.

Most restaurants don't do reservations, which is a plus for people who don't plan meals in advance. Few have waits, unless you want sushi. Most weekend nights, Blue Samurai in Centro Ybor boasts a 20-minute delay.

MYTH: There's no place to park.

REALITY: Ybor has no shortage of spotsif you're not against walking or paying the equivalent of a few drinks.

For the best deals, go early. The city-run garage on 15th Street charges a flat $5 on weekends but usually fills up by 10 p.m. Private lots charge about $6 and up, depending on the distance from Seventh Avenue.

Still too pricey? Then head to Ybor on a week night. The garage is free for up to three hours.

True Ybor veterans know where to park for nothing. Just beware of the meters and tow-area zones.

I haven't paid a dime to park in two years I've been going Ybor. Even on Guavaween.

I'd tell you where to go but, then again, I need a spot this weekend.

-- Grand Central columnist Patty Ryan will return soon. In the meantime, City Times writer Susan Thurston offers her own take on life in South Tampa.

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