Vegetarian Cooking: Thanks can be given over any main dish

©Associated Press
November 24, 2002

CONCORD, N.H. -- There is a simple rule for having a successful vegetarian Thanksgiving: Forget the turkey.

Sound obvious? Not always.

Sure, not many turkeys grace the holiday tables of vegetarian cooks, but that doesn't stop people from worrying about what to serve in place of the bird, especially those expecting carnivores among their guests.

How else to explain all those tofu-based birds that appear in natural food stores this time of year? But Thanksgiving isn't about turkey, and for vegetarians it shouldn't be about trying to replace it.

Thanks can be given over any dish.

Stick with wholesome, hearty dishes that use traditional ingredients in new ways to pack the meal with plenty of interesting textures, aromas and tastes.

Start off your guests with a bowl of sweet potato and fennel soup, a hearty, warmly seasoned dish sure to beat back the blustery fall weather.

Then give an all-American staple an Asian twist: mashed potatoes with a dash of wasabi, the green condiment that gives sushi its kick.

And what would Thanksgiving be without pumpkin? However, it's not just for pies and puddings. Try it in kibbeh, a spicy, fried patty from Lebanon that is crunchy on the outside, warm and moist on the inside.

Along with these dishes, serve cranberry sauce (great for dipping the kibbeh in), stuffing (not stuffed, of course) and some fresh bread, and your guests will never miss the turkey.

Wasabi Mashed Potatoes

• 3 pounds boiling potatoes (roughly 5 large Yukon Gold), peeled and quartered
• 1 tablespoon wasabi powder
• 1 tablespoon water
• 2/3 milk
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

Bring a stockpot of water to a boil and add the potatoes. Cook, partially covered, until tender, about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, combine the wasabi and water in a small bowl and let sit for 15 minutes to develop flavor.

Drain the potatoes in a colander. Gently heat the milk for 1 to 2 minutes in the stockpot over a low flame. Add the potatoes and use an electric hand mixer to whip the potatoes until smooth. Add more milk if potatoes are too thick.

Stir in the butter and salt. Stir in the wasabi just before serving.

Note: Vegans can easily substitute soy or rice milk and soy or canola margarine for the dairy products. Corn oil is another good alternative to butter.

Serves four.

Source: Vegetarian Classics by Jeanne Lemlin (HarperCollins, 2001, $30).

Sweet Potato and Fennel Soup

• 1-1/4 cups onions, roughly chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 13/4 cups fennel heart, chopped
• 2 or 3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
• 3-1/2 cups sweet potato, cut into small chunks, not peeled
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 3 or 4 cups vegetable stock or water
• 1 or 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
• Salt and pepper, to taste

In a large stockpot, saute the onion in the olive oil over a medium flame until the edges of the onions begin to turn translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the fennel and garlic, and saute for about 7 more minutes.

Add the potato and cumin, and stir well to combine. Saute for an additional 2 or 3 minutes, then add water or vegetable stock. Bring to a boil. Simmer until potatoes are easily pierced with a fork, about 20 to 25 minutes.

Transfer the soup to a blender, and puree until smooth. Season to taste with cider vinegar, salt and pepper. Additional water or stock can be added if a thinner consistency is desired.

Makes four to six servings.

Source: Gaia's Kitchen: Vegetarian Recipes for Family and Community by Julia Ponsonby (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2001, $19.95).

Pumpkin Kibbeh

• 2 cups cooked pumpkin puree (see note)
• 1 cup bulgur wheat kernels, soaked for 10 minutes in boiling water, then drained (couscous could be substituted)
• Salt, to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon allspice
• 1/2 teaspoon cumin
• 1/8 teaspoon hot pepper flakes
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup water
• Vegetable oil, for frying

Combine all ingredients except oil in a food processor and pulse until they form a chunky dough that sticks together when squeezed. If the mixture is too soft, add more flour.

Form the dough into golf ball-sized spheres, then flatten into patties.

In a deep sauce pan, pour enough oil so that it is at least 1 inch deep and heat over a medium-high flame. To test the oil, touch the surface with a wooden chopstick. The oil should bubble or sizzle around it when ready.

One or two at a time, fry the patties until brown on both sides, about 3 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels and keep warm until ready to serve.

Makes about 12 patties.

Note: Canned pumpkin can be used, but it requires planning. To drain some of the water, fill a metal coffee filter or a fine-mesh wire strainer with the pumpkin and stand it in a bowl in the refrigerator overnight.

Source: Classic Vegetarian Cooking from the Middle East and North Africa by Habeeb Salloum (Interlink, 2000, $25).

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