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In Jackson Square, they line up, waiting for their turn to reprise the infamous shout from A Streetcar Named Desire: Stellaaaaaa!
By GENEVIEVE C. RAJEWSKI
© St. Petersburg Times, published February 16, 2003
NEW ORLEANS -- Don't go to New Orleans for Mardi Gras. Go to glimpse lush gardens through wrought iron gates. Go for the strains of Dixieland wafting out of Preservation Hall.
Or, by all means, go to rub shoulders with locals as men in muscle shirts yell, "Stellaaaaaa!"
The moment my husband and I heard of the Stella Shouting Contest, we were determined to witness the spectacle. Held every March as part of the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival, the "Stell-off" pits about 20 men and women against each other for the best interpretation of the infamous scene from A Streetcar Named Desire: Marlon Brando, as remorseful Stanley Kowalski, shouts the name of his wife, whom he has hit.
We wanted a good view of the contest, so we arrived at Jackson Square early. However, instead of securing great seats, we found ourselves wondering whether there was a contest.
Twice, my husband and I checked at the literary festival's headquarters, Le Petit Theatre de Vieux Carre. The first time, we received what sounded like legitimate instructions:
"The contest starts around 4. People start lining up around 3:30 or so, about three-quarters of the way down the square."
Only there was no line at 3:30, or even at 4. There were jugglers, fortune tellers, families playing in the park and mule-drawn carriages awaiting passengers at the square's edge. But there wasn't one Kowalski wanna-be in sight.
After waiting, and more inquiries, and more waiting, we saw a man leave festival headquarters, carrying a chalkboard on which was written "Stella!" As he set down the chalkboard, a crowd materialized, then a line began to form. People with cameras lowered themselves to the curb. Cries of "Stellaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!" rang out from passers-by.
Before traveling to New Orleans, we had rented the 1951 film version of A Streetcar Named Desire. Brando's Stanley is saddened after hitting his pregnant wife, Stella (played by Kim Hunter) in a drunken rage. Stanley hollers for her to return from the neighbor's apartment, where she has sought refuge.
After the viewing, my husband mentioned that he might try Stella-shouting.
I nudged him toward the growing line. It was already eight people deep.
Once registered for the contest, my husband sat by my side, smiling sheepishly and holding his place card (No. 9). Soon the emcee welcomed the crowd and explained how the contest worked.
Each contestant got three "yells," directed to an actor standing on a balcony overlooking the square. Men yell for Stella's attention, women for Stanley's.
The judges -- our group included author Dakin Williams, Tennessee's brother; movie critic Rex Reed; and actor Stephanie Zimbalist -- then were to select five finalists to compete on the venerable stage of Le Petit Theatre.
The professional Stella and Stanley waved from the balcony. With his slicked-back hair and tight, white T-shirt, Stanley did look like the young Brando. With a parasol and pinned-up bouffant, however, Stella resembled Scarlett O'Hara more than the scrappy woman created by Tennessee Williams.
The first contestant sported tight jeans and a scowl and had a cigarette pack tucked into the sleeve of his T-shirt. There was an expectant hush as he entered the clearing in the crowd's center.
"Stell. Laaaaaa," he yelled. "Stell. Laaaaaaa!"
"It's one name, sugar," Stella called back.
An appreciative roar greeted this. Apparently, Stella's heckling is a large part of the contest's appeal.
Undeterred, Stanley No. 1 finished with his two-word approach. Despite Stella's drawling reprimand, this Stanley made it to the final.
The first Stanley was followed in quick succession by, among others:
A Stanley who stripped down to a tank top, doused himself with a bottle of water and shook his fists at the sky.
A business-casual Stanley who seemed to be losing Stella due to a poor cell phone connection: "Hey, Stella, are you still there? Stella?"
An older Stella who shouted for Stanley as if he was going deaf after 45 years of marriage.
Despite the obvious limitations of word choice, each contestant was different.
My husband looked somewhat nervous about jumping into a mix largely made up of Louisiana and Texas natives, but the small cheer after his introduction visibly steeled him.
He did not find glory -- or the final -- but once back in the audience, he received back slaps and congratulations from all sides.
And we both certainly found more than we went looking for, including the knowledge that we could rely on the kindness of strangers.
-- Genevieve C. Rajewski is a freelance writer in Boston. She can be reached at ticktockwordshop@attbi.com.
To hear some of the shouting contestants, go to this section of National Public Radio's Web site: www.npr.org/programs/morning/features/patc/streetcar/index/html. Click on "Listen to Debbie Elliott's report." The Stella shouting is at the end of a rather lengthy history of Tennessee Williams' play.
This year's Stella Shouting Contest preliminaries will be in Jackson Square at 4:30 p.m. March 30. The finals will be on the Le Petit Theatre main stage at 5:30 p.m. Both events are free.
The Tennessee Williams Literary Festival is March 26 to 30. Programs include panel discussions, master classes, theatrical performances, walking tours, food and wine events, musical performances, celebrity interviews and a book fair. For a schedule or information, call (504) 581-1144 or visit www.tennesseewilliams.net.
TICKETS: Some events are free; the price for others begins at $35. Check the Web site above for details. Tickets can be purchased through TicketWeb, toll-free 1-800-965-4827, or through the Web site. Advance purchase is recommended. Among the nonscholarly events:
Dining with Tennessee: Enjoy samples from leading New Orleans chefs, cookbook signings and swing music at the festival's New Orleans Cooks & Books event. "Tennessee Does Comfort Food: Dishes That Defy Time" is at 10:30 a.m. March 30 at the Hotel Monteleone La Nouvelle Meeting Space, 214 Royal St. Tickets cost $25.
Many restaurants celebrate the festival with special prix fixe menus or menu items inspired by references in Williams' works. Call the festival organizers at (504) 581-1144 for details.
Imbibing with Tennessee: Brennan's Restaurant, 417 Royal St., hosts "Tennessee Sips: A Wine and Word Pairing" at 5 p.m. March 29. Created by Gourmet magazine wine consultant Michael Green, the event features wines that evoke the characters and atmosphere of Williams' works. Tickets cost $35.
The festival's one-hour Cocktail Tour at 4 p.m. March 28 and 29 visits fabled drinking establishments of New Orleans. Tickets cost $20; beverages are sold separately.
STAYING THERE: The Bed and Breakfast Inc. reservation service (toll-free 1-800-729-4640, www.historiclodging.com) represents 30 guest houses in various sections of the city. There is a three-night minimum stay. Rates start at $90 and average about $120.
As host hotel of the festival, the Hotel Monteleone offers festival participants a discounted rate. When inquiring about rooms, mention that you will be attending the festival. 214 Royal St., toll-free 1-800-535-9595, www.hotelmonteleone.com.
Williams completed A Streetcar Named Desire at Hotel Maison de Ville, where he was a regular guest in Room 9. Rooms start at $235. 727 Toulouse St., toll-free 1-800-634-1600, www.maisondeville.com.