Low tolerance for high fashion

David Wolfe, creative director with New York merchandise consultants Doneger Group, has been watching runway shows for 30 years with growing incredulity and disgust. During Fashion Week in February, he gave forward-looking retailers, wholesalers and designers his interpretation of how high fashion will translate into real-life apparel for spring 2004. Among his thoughts:

On the growing popularity of "athleisure," hybrid athletic, leisure sportswear:

"Consumers want clothes that are grounded in reality with a little fashion sizzle. I don't know what yogawear is and I don't care. It makes money."

On two timeless moneymakers:

"Every time designers say nautical, they make money. Another money spinner is surfing, even for people who don't go near the water."

On missed markets:

"There are more people over 50 with discretionary money than any other group, but retailers aren't serving them. And this group is going to fight aging, either naturally or with a little help. Sixty is the new 30."

On turning back time:

"The '50s are back again because they take me back to a safe time. I remember my childhood in Ohio as stupefyingly boring, but there was no danger."

On color as a fashion statement:

"For the last 15 years, we've been wearing black. Color is an emotional panacea that's already a major force in home furnishings."

On shock value on the runway:

"In one show last fall, the model was wearing a white gown and it looked like she'd been shot on the shoulder above her breast. The dress was stained red as if she were bleeding. I don't know how much worse it can be."

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