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DISH: A weekly serving of food news and views

By Compiled by Janet K. Keeler from staff and wire reports
Published April 9, 2003

deconstructing (explanations from the inside out)

"This is the bread of affliction that our forefathers ate . . ." With these words Jews commence the Seder meal to mark Passover, which begins this year at sundown April 16. The thin, brittle, unleavened bread is symbolic of the Exodus, when the Jewish people fled persecution in Egypt. Their haste to gather their belongings and flee did not leave time to make leavened bread for the journey.

During the weeklong Passover observance, Jews around the world give up leavened bread in remembrance. While matzo is a Passover requirement, the flat, crisp bread and all its variations are eaten throughout the year.

The crackerlike matzo is made with flour that has been carefully watched from the time of harvest to baking, and water, though some modern versions include flavorings such as onion. When water is mixed with flour, a natural leavening occurs if the ingredients are allowed to mingle for a while. To avoid this, matzo must be cooked quickly to adhere to dietary guidelines.

Ground matzo, often called matzo meal, is made in fine and medium texture and matzo cake flour is finer still. Matzo meal is used in matzo balls, which famously float in a soup of chicken broth, and gefilte fish, ground fish balls. It is also used to bread foods for frying and to thicken soups.

cooking class

A tip adapted from The Kitchen Answer Book by Hank Rubin (Capital Books, 2002): If a slightly foamy white substance appears on the surface of salmon as you cook it, don't be alarmed. The foam indicates that the salmon is being overcooked and/or cooked at too high a temperature. Consider it a harmless indication to modify your cooking technique or times.

this web site cooks

www.vegfamily.com

This online magazine for vegan families features tasty-sounding recipes with an element of danger, a la Chang Chang Hijiki Salad and Killer Hummus.

Vegfamily.com is the creation of Erin Pavlina, a Los Angeles mother, author and radio talk-show guest who proselytizes the merits of the carrot, leaf and bean. Surfers will discover a wealth of information to help them find their footing as they attempt to shed the cuisine of the carnivore. Health-related topics include coping with menopause and fighting heart disease and cancer with soy antioxidants.

constant comment

"Isn't there any other part of the matzo you can eat?" - Marilyn Monroe, after being served matzo ball soup for three meals in a row.

catalog

rosy inspiration: Bake a bundt cake that looks like a rose with this 10-cup nonstick pan. With so many indentations (to simulate petals) in the pan, we wondered if we'd be able to get the cake out in one piece. We baked a doctored-up cake mix and had no difficulty. A yellow or light cake shows off the petal detail to best advantage. With a chocolate cake, the rose effect is not as dramatic. The pan is available for about $28.95 from Sur La Table, toll-free 1-800-243-0852 or www.surlatable.com or Williams-Sonoma, toll-free 1-877-812-6235 or www.williams-sonoma.com

mayonnaise taste-off

Results of a recent mayonnaise taste test of eight widely available brands of mayonnaise (although not technically a mayo, Miracle Whip was included because of its popularity) from supermarkets were revealed in the April issue of Cook's Illustrated.

Highly recommended by the magazine's staff tasters were Best Foods Real Mayonnaise, Kraft Real Mayonnaise and Trader Joe's Real Mayonnaise (the best bargain in price). Next came Hain Safflower Mayonnaise and Kraft Miracle Whip Salad Dressing in the recommended category.

Best Foods Light Mayonnaise came out the low-fat winner.

file of bacon or hot dogs (no bun)

keep them safe: Unopened, vacuum-sealed packages of cured meats, such as bacon, hot dogs and sausages, may be kept in the refrigerator - conservatively - for two weeks, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Once opened, use lunch meats within three to five days; bacon, hot dogs and smoked sausage such as kielbasas within seven days; and dry-cured sausage within two to three weeks.

bold and spicy

Bay leaf, lemon grass, sesame, chile peppers, mustard and wasabi are among the intense flavors expected to capture American palates this coming year, according to a new report from McCormick & Co. Fifteen cookbook authors and chefs surveyed for the 2003 McCormick Flavor Forecast say they think Americans are continuing their search for bold, spicy flavors, ethnic dishes and organic food. Other flavors high on the list are turmeric, cinnamon, pepper, vanilla, coriander/cilantro and sea salt.

[Last modified April 8, 2003, 10:17:21]

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