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Tripe's flavor tried and true through the ages

ANNE LONG
Published May 21, 2003

According to The New Gastronomique Larousse (1977 edition), "The first stomach of oxen (beef) is used for the famous tripes a la mode de Caen and gras-double a la lyonnaise. The origin of these dishes is ancient. Athenaeus praised tripe, and Homer noted its excellence. William the Conqueror enjoyed tripe accompanied by Neustrian apple juice. . . ."

Tripe is a meat not often found on menus today nor always carried in supermarkets. You may have to order it.

Claudia Penna asked for a tripe recipe, Italian style, with a thin tomato sauce. Mary Ellen LaTempa has a favorite recipe that includes potatoes and peas, just the one Claudia wants.

Gene Marshall shares his recipe for tripe lyonnaise, which he found in the out-of-print Everyday French Cooking. Sauteed onion and fresh mushrooms enhance the flavor and texture of this classic.

Serve the dish with baked, boiled or sauteed potatoes, and four diners will have a hearty meal.

Many Portuguese, including the family of celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse, settled in Massachusetts, and the popularity of Portuguese dishes has spread to other areas. Kale soup is one recipe that won acclaim.

Carol Perry and Natalie Raposa found a recipe for this hearty soup, served at the Moors Restaurant, in Peter Hunt's Cape Cod Cookbook.

Beans, onion, chorizo (spicy Italian sausage can substitute if you can't find chorizo), kale and potatoes are among the ingredients. Be sure to wash the kale well and strip away the heavy ribs before tearing or shredding it. (This soup is similar to the traditional Tampa soup called Gallego, which has roots in the Galicia region of Spain.

The hallmarks of the soup are garbanzo beans, spicy sausage, potatoes and greens.)

Laura Peterson writes that she and her husband lived in Massachusetts for 30 years and enjoyed dining in wonderful Portuguese restaurants. Laura found the recipe she is sharing in a Massachusetts newspaper.

For: Claudia Penna of Hudson.

From: Mary Ellen LaTempa of Spring Hill.

Recipe: Mary's Tripe, Italian Style.

Mary's Tripe, Italian Style

2 pounds honeycomb tripe

2 to 3 pats butter

1 large onion, sliced

1 28-ounce can Italian crushed tomatoes

1 28-ounce can water

2 to 3 white potatoes, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 15-ounce can peas

Rinse tripe in cold water. Cut into 1-inch squares. Put in a deep pot with 4 quarts of cold water; cover and boil slowly about 2 hours or until tender. Drain well.

Melt butter in a large saucepan. Saute tripe with onion. Pour tomatoes and water over tripe. Add potatoes and simmer 30 minutes or until tripe is VERY tender. Add peas and simmer an additional 5 minutes.

May be served over rice or spaghetti. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Serve with Italian garlic bread and a salad for a great meal.

From: Gene Marshall of Largo.

Recipe: Tripe Lyonnaise Style, from Everyday French Cooking.

Tripe Lyonnaise Style

11/4 pounds precooked fresh tripe

Water or stock to cover

5 tablespoons butter, divided

2 medium onions, thinly sliced

1/2 pound mushrooms, sliced

2 tablespoons vinegar

3 tablespoons tomato puree (optional)

Salt and ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Cook the tripe slowly in water or stock to cover for 3 to 4 hours or until tender. Cool. Cut the tripe in 3- by 1-inch pieces and drain well. Cook the pieces in 2 tablespoons butter until golden brown, turning frequently.

In another skillet, cook the onions in 2 tablespoons butter until golden; add them to the tripe.

Put the mushrooms and the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in the onion skillet. Cook for 5 minutes or until tender. Add to tripe and onions. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Heat the mixture and serve with baked, boiled or sauteed potatoes. Makes 4 servings.

For: Sandi Loomis of Gulfport.

From: Carol Perry and Natalie Raposa, both of Seminole.

Recipe: The Moors Portuguese Kale Soup, from Peter Hunt's Cape Cod Cookbook.

The Moors Portuguese Kale Soup

1 cup dried pea beans

1 large onion, sliced

1 pound chorizo

1 pound kale

1 tablespoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1 tablespoon vinegar

2 cups peeled and cubed potatoes

10 cups plus 1 cup water

Soak beans overnight in cold water. In the morning, drain. Add onion, sausage (which has been cut into small pieces), kale (washed well and cut or broken into pieces), salt, pepper, vinegar and 10 cups water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cook gently 2 to 3 hours. Add potatoes and 1 additional cup water. Continue cooking until potatoes are tender. Serves 6.

From: Laura Peterson of Homosassa.

Recipe: Portuguese Kale Soup, from a Massachusetts newspaper.

Portuguese Kale Soup

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 pound chorizo sausage, sliced 1/2-inch thick

1 large onion, chopped

6 to 8 garlic cloves, minced

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

1 16-ounce can navy beans, drained

1 16-ounce can red beans, drained

4 quarts chicken stock (Laura uses canned stock)

2 bay leaves

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

11/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes

Ground black pepper

2 large potatoes, peeled and diced

1 large bunch kale, washed well, stemmed and torn

1/2 cup chopped fresh mint (Laura does not use this)

In a heavy stockpot, heat olive oil over high heat. Add sausage and onion; saute for 2 minutes. Add garlic, parsley and beans. Cook for 2 minutes. Add stock and bring to a boil. Stir in bay leaves, thyme, salt, pepper flakes and black pepper to taste. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until beans are tender, about 11/2 hours. Add potatoes and kale. Simmer for 30 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Skim off fat. Pour soup into bowls and serve with crusty bread.

Recipe requests

Cathy Pandelo of Bradenton writes that the B and W Bakery in Hackensack, N.J., makes the best heavy crumb cake in the world.

Cathy has never been able to duplicate it. If you have a similar recipe, please share.

The homemade Caesar salad dressing served at Hops Restaurant is a favorite of Maria Boac of New Port Richey, and she would like to know how to make it.

Julia Grube of Treasure Island has two salad dressing requests. The cole slaw served at Houlihan's restaurant and the salad bowl dressing served at the Olive Garden Italian Restaurant are on her wish list.

Bob Evans restaurants make a delicious chicken salad and serve it with fruit.

Linda Kaley of Largo hopes the chain will share the recipe for this outstanding salad.

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