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Celebrity chef English gives seasoned advice

CHRIS SHERMAN
Published July 23, 2003

TAMPA - What does Boston's top celebrity chef do on a Thursday morning before the July 4th holiday? He stands at the end of a Publix aisle, passing out slices of big Cuban sandwiches, spiked with samples of Olives tapenade.

In New Orleans, they'd call that a muffuletta, but in North Tampa it was one more stop on the career path of Todd English, the Boston chef with the pin-up looks, and the 15 restaurants.

"It's all about building the brand," English said in an interview before taking the floor at Publix in Citrus Park. He already had given cooking demonstrations to sellout crowds at the chain's Apron's Cooking Schools in Sarasota and on the second floor of this showcase store on the night before.

But he was ready to press the flesh with morning shoppers like a political candidate working a small-town crowd.

"A friend of mine who is a musician explained it this way: "Sometimes you play in big amphitheaters and stadiums, sometimes you play in little bars.

"It's all a way of reaching people.' "

And what English tells his audiences is to use strong, simple flavors. While he taught the classes one big recipe, a hobo fish pack wrapped in foil, he also gave them one of his favorite straight-forward tips.

"Learn to season. Most people don't know how to season," English said. "They're afraid to use salt and pepper."

He's not: "We took a big steak, seasoned it aggressively with salt and pepper, rubbed olive oil on it. That's all."

English has three cookbooks, two TV series that include Iron Chef USA, olive products and his restaurant empire.

His original restaurant, Olives, now has five other branches, one of them in Tokyo; five casual restaurants are called Figs, and he has four other restaurants and one under construction at Disney World in Orlando.

Monkfish Hobo Pack

2 Yukon gold potatoes

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons salt, divided

2 teaspoons black pepper, divided

1 whole medium to large head-off monkfish, skinned (cod, grouper or other meaty, thick-flaked whitefish may be substituted)

2 diced tomatoes

2 links spicy chorizo, sliced

2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 leeks (cleaned, trimmed, and roughly chopped)

1 medium bulb fennel (roughly chopped)

Zest of one lemon

Zest of one orange

4 sprigs fresh rosemary

4 sprigs fresh thyme

10 basil leaves, roughly chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

10 live fresh clams

For the potatoes: Rinse potatoes in cold water to remove any water from the skin. Place 2 inches of water into a large pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Slice potatoes into 1/4-inch slices. Add the potatoes to the boiling water. Add one teaspoon salt and one teaspoon pepper to the water. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the water.

To build the pack: Line a medium or large cookie sheet with aluminum foil. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil on the bottom of the foil. Place potatoes on oil in the center of the sheet. Place monkfish on top of the potatoes. Season monkfish with remaining salt and pepper.

In a separate bowl, toss diced tomatoes and sliced chorizo in 2 tablespoons each of: olive oil, lemon juice, orange juice, and balsamic vinegar. Pour mixture over the monkfish.

Sprinkle cumin and turmeric over the fish. Add leeks, fennel, lemon and orange zest, sprigs of rosemary, thyme and torn basil to the pack. Spread clams evenly over top. Cover with a separate, larger piece of foil. Fold the edges to ensure that the steam doesn't escape during roasting. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes (depending on the size of the monkfish).

Open the pack carefully to avoid being burned by hot steam. Serve immediately. Serves 2 to 4.

Source: Todd English for Apron's Cooking School, Publix.

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