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So-so tartar sauce . . .
Nothing eases the guilt of a fried-fish sandwich like the punch of tarter-than-thou tartar sauce, but too often it's tame stuff. Starting with homemade mayonnaise is best, yet even store-bought tartar can be fired up with pepper (chopped or sauce), key lime, chopped tarragon or basil, capers, mustard or horseradish.