The quaint town of Duernstein, with cobblestone streets and 16th century houses, figures in history and folktale.
By SUSAN LADIKA
Published July 27, 2003
[Photo: Susan Ladika]
The baby blue Baroque tower of the abbey in Duernstein is a village landmark. View larger photo
[Austrian National Tourist Office]
The abbey in Melk traces its history to the 11th century. Its library was the inspiration for the one in Umberto Eco’s The Name of the Rose.View larger photo
DUERNSTEIN, Austria - The crumbling ruins of a medieval Austrian castle might seem an unlikely inspiration for a Tim Rice musical. This one is perched high on a hill. A vigorous hike up to the ruins provides a breathtaking view of the Danube River and the picturesque town of Duernstein far below.
No doubt much has changed since Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in the castle in 1192. The English king was returning from the Crusades when he was nabbed by his archenemy, Duke Leopold V of Austria, and locked away.
Legend has it that Richard's faithful minstrel, Blondel, roamed from town to town, playing the king's favorite songs. As Blondel played his way through Duernstein, Richard supposedly sang the words, thus revealing his location. A hefty ransom was paid for his release.
This story served as the basis for Rice's musical Blondel nearly 800 years later.
Even today, Duernstein appears like a setting from a legend, with cobblestone streets, 16th century houses and a baby blue Baroque clock tower lording over it all.
Duernstein is perhaps the most quaint town in the Wachau, a wine-growing region along the Danube. Vineyards march up and down the hillsides, and visitors can sample the region's best varietals at scores of family owned wine pubs, known as Heuriger.
Many Austrians ask for their wine gespritzt, with a splash of soda water, as they sit for hours overlooking the Danube or amid vineyards and enjoy the peaceful change of pace from Vienna.
As they relax, they also snack on cold cuts, sausages, cheese, roasted chicken and salads that typically make up Heuriger fare.
Many people forsake their cars, opting to bicycle from town to town. One site not to be missed is the abbey in nearby Melk. The grand Baroque structure, visible for miles from its position on a hill, traces its history to the 11th century, when the original castle was handed over to the Benedictine monks.
A school was started in the abbey a century later, and the books and manuscripts collected over the centuries have created a rich library, which was the inspiration for the one in Umberto Eco's The Name of the Rose.
Today the library contains an estimated 100,000 volumes. About 15 percent are on display, filling the room from floor to ceiling.
The ceilings of the library and the marble hall are painted with elaborate frescoes, and the pink and gray marble chapel overflows with gilt. Skeletons of long-dead saints bedecked with jewels are encased behind glass.
An impressive modern museum traces the history of the abbey and the monks.
The Wachau is easily accessible by car, train and tour boat along the Danube.
