The adventurous are making their own, using global flavors to transform the common condiment.
By JANET K. KEELER
Published August 20, 2003
Oil and water don't mix, but an egg yolk changes all that.
The yolk is the marriage counselor that smoothes the differences, allowing this disparate pair to live happily ever after as mayonnaise.
Of all the magic that happens in the kitchen, the making of mayonnaise might be the most miraculous. A seemingly goopy mass of egg yolks, water, oil, dried mustard, salt and lemon juice is transformed, with a lot of elbow grease or the press of a food processor button, into a creamy dressing that egg salad can't live without.
Most of us have given up making mayonnaise, gladly handing over the duties to Kraft and Hellmann's. For years, we've gotten our mayo fix in regular, low-fat or nonfat versions. And now another niche has been etched in the condiment aisle: flavored mayonnaise.
From French's, the mustard people, comes GourMayo, mayonnaise tinged with wasabi, chipotle or sun-dried tomato. Kraft is aiming at global taste buds, too, with its Hot 'n Spicy mayonnaise and "Mayonesa - con jugo de limones (with lime juice)." For those who find it overwhelming to plop a dollop of sweet-pickle relish into regular mayonnaise, Kraft offers relief with its Tuna Salad Maker (Just add tuna! says the label).
Manufacturers hope these new convenience products will give them a larger share of the fiercely competitive condiment market. Some will, until the next trend takes hold. (Remember green ketchup?) French's has already claimed 65 percent of the flavored-mayo category, according to the Christian Science Monitor. Who knew the category even existed?
You can drop about $2.50 on one of these mayo mixes and be mildly satisfied. (We like the wasabi version; the chipotle tastes slightly metallic.) Or you can make them yourself from the condiments crammed onto the door of your refrigerator. Hot and spicy? Reach for the horseradish. Hankering for Asian flavor? Call on ginger paste and sesame oil. Garden fresh? Whirl a cup of mayonnaise in the blender with basil leaves for a delicious spread on a tomato-and-buffalo-mozzarella sandwich.
Flavored mayos can stand in as dips for veggies or bring tired sandwiches back to life. Chicken, egg and tuna salads also are re-energized by new flavors smoothly incorporated in the dressing.
At the core of this flavor-crazy alchemy is mayonnaise and, before you begin meddling, you'll have to decide where you stand on this classic French dressing. (And no, we don't mean whether you think it should be called Uncle Sam Sauce.)
Will you reach for commercial versions or snub current health warnings and make your own, raw eggs and all? Do you fall somewhere in between; making it with slightly cooked eggs to eliminate the threat of bacterial contamination?
The benefit of using Hellmann's and friends is that, well, it's already made. Plus, there's such a variety of offerings it would be difficult to find a version that doesn't appeal to every diet. In addition to those that consider fat content, there are low-sodium, eggless and soy varieties.
So why make your own?
Because it tastes better. Homemade mayonnaise is less sweet than commercial brands and doesn't contain the preservatives. There's a reason that unopened mayonnaise can sit on an unrefrigerated shelf for months, and you'll know it when you look at the unpronounceable words on the label.
Food safety experts warn that raw eggs can contain harmful bacteria that are killed when eggs are cooked or pasteurized. Pregnant women and people with immune-system disorders are most susceptible. The health warning stops some cooks from making traditional mayo, but others willingly cook on the edge.
In some markets, pasteurized eggs are available, though they are not widespread in Florida. According to Shirley O. Corriher, author of CookWise (William Morrow & Co., 1997), eggs can be safely pasteurized at home by running hot tap water (about 140 degrees) over them for 31/2 minutes.
This process reduces the danger of contamination but doesn't cook the eggs so much that they are unsuitable for mayonnaise. (See accompanying recipes.)
Once you've decided on your base, begin experimenting with flavorings. Start with small amounts; you can always add more. Spices and flavorings grow in pungency as they meld with other ingredients, so don't pass judgment until the mixture has rested in the fridge for at least an hour. Then, if it tastes weak, increase ingredients.
Also, homemade mayonnaise keeps about three days in the refrigerator and while commercial mayo lasts longer, doctored versions should also be used within a few days of preparation.
Some suggestions:
Hot stuff. Forget the Hulk; the most important green thing in our lives these days is wasabi. You can buy this nasal-clearing paste in tubes or just use the glob left from last night's takeout sushi. Start with 2 teaspoons of paste for about 1 cup of mayonnaise. The results will be mildly green with enough heat to kick up a roast beef sandwich. Horseradish is a suitable substitute since that's what most wasabi, with the addition of green food coloring, is anyway.
Garlic breath. Trim 1/4 inch from the top of a head of garlic and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Wrap the garlic in foil and roast for 45 minutes at 350 degrees. When garlic is cool enough to handle, squeeze out roasted gloves into 1 cup mayonnaise and add the juice of 1 lemon. (To save energy and heating up the kitchen for a small item, roast garlic along with something, or use a toaster oven.)
Spice spread. This mayonnaise got mixed reviews in our tasting, but there were enough thumbs up to warrant a try if you like Indian spices. To 1/2 cup of mayonnaise, add 1/2 teaspoon of garam masala, 1/4 teaspoon chili powder and a pinch of sugar. Garam masala is a blend of warm, fragrant spices, including cumin, cardamom pods, cloves, peppercorns and cinnamon sticks and is used in tandoori chicken. It makes the mayonnaise slightly sweet, and we like it on a smoked turkey and brie sandwich. (To make a curry version, add 3 tablespoons curry and 2 tablespoons coconut milk to 1 cup mayo.)
Asian inspiration. To 1/2 cup mayonnaise, add 1 teaspoon ginger paste, 1 teaspoon sesame oil and 1 tablespoon finely minced cilantro. Finely grated fresh ginger can substitute for the paste, but it will leave small lumps in the final product; the paste makes a smoother mayo. This is delicious with cold sliced tomatoes or in deviled eggs.
Hail mayonnaise. Caesar salad dressing is the inspiration for this mayonnaise, which includes anchovy paste but doesn't taste fishy. To 1 cup of mayonnaise, add 2 teaspoons (or more to taste) of anchovy paste, 1 large clove finely minced fresh garlic to taste and the juice of 1/2 lemon. Use it in chicken salad for a different way to get that popular Caesar taste.
Chive talkin'. This spread is a wonderful accompaniment for meaty sandwiches such as roast or corned beef. To 1 cup of mayonnaise, add 1 to 2 tablespoons of spicy or Dijon mustard and 2 tablespoons of snipped fresh chives.
Seeing red. Both roasted red peppers, fresh or from a jar, and sun-dried tomatoes can be used to flavor mayonnaise. For the red pepper version, combine 1/3 jar drained peppers with 1 cup mayo, freshly ground black pepper and the juice of 1 lime in a blender. Mix until smooth. Can be used on sandwiches or as a topping for crab cakes. To make a tomato version, reconstitute 1/4 cup dried tomatoes then chop coarsely or use 1/4 cup of oil-packed tomatoes, drained and chopped. Mix tomatoes, 1 cup mayonnaise, 1 garlic clove and the juice of one lemon in blender until smooth. Use in sandwiches or for chicken salad.
Handmade Basic Mayonnaise
1 egg yolk at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon prepared Dijon mustard or dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch of cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon vinegar
3/4 cup olive or vegetable oil, or a combination of both
Put the yolk, mustard, salt, cayenne pepper and vinegar in a clean bowl.
Place the bowl on a towel so it will remain stationary, and whisk ingredients until blended. Beat in oil, drop by drop.
As the sauce thickens, increase the flow of oil but be slow and patient. The sauce, when finished, should be very thick.
Taste and adjust seasonings, adding more vinegar or salt if necessary. Makes 1 cup.
NB: If the oil should begin to separate, or "break," during whisking, the sauce can be salvaged. Whisk in a teaspoon or two of boiling water, a drop at a time.
If that doesn't work, put an egg yolk in a bowl and add the "broken" sauce slowly, beating with a whisk. Be patient and take lots of time; eventually you will have a smooth sauce.
Source: "The Fannie Farmer Cookbook" by Marion Cunningham (Knopf, 1990).
Blender Mayonnaise
1 egg
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard or 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 cup olive, peanut or vegetable oil (or a combination)
11/2 tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice
1 tablespoon boiling water
Salt to taste
Place the egg, salt, mustard and 1/4 cup of the oil in the blender.
Turn on the motor and add the remaining 3/4 cup oil in a slow, thin stream.
Add the vinegar or lemon juice and water.
Taste, correct the seasonings, and refrigerate until needed up to three days.
Makes 1 1/2 cups.
Food processor mayonnaise: Use 1 egg plus 1 egg yolk and process. Add up to 1/2 cup more oil and adjust the amount of vinegar or lemon juice. Omit water.
Source: "The Fannie Farmer Cookbook" by Marion Cunningham (Knopf, 1990).
Eggless Mayonnaise
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 cup soy milk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon prepared mustard
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
Put all the ingredients except the oil in a blender. Blend on lowest speed.
Gradually - literally one drop at a time - add the oil until the mixture starts to thicken. Continue blending until thickened and smooth.
