In early fall's heated miasma, the gelato case at Mazzaro's (2909 22nd Ave. N, St. Petersburg) calls to you. Some of the rotating flavors have the sultriness of a siren's song (mango, coconut, banana), some the insouciance of a Gilbert and Sullivan medley (hazelnut, pistachio, tiramisu), others the purity of a Bill Evans riff (chocolate, strawberry). Here, pastry assistant Lindsay Minthorn puts mint chocolate chip in the case. Don't resist any of them; free tastes are encouraged. But always return to lemon. On days like this, its bite is bluesy and bittersweet.
