Street fare
Dishes by Indian vendors are long on exotic spices and savory ingredients, but easy to assemble and exciting to eat.
Vada Paav
(Garlic potato finger sandwiches)
For garlic and red chili condiment:
1/4 cup blanced Spanish peanuts, or dry-roasted unsalted peanuts
1 tablespoon coriander seed
1 teaspoon cumin seed
5 to 6 dried red Thai, cayenne or Serrano chilies
1 tablespoon sesame seed
6 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
For the vadas (fritters):
1 cup garbanzo-bean flour, sifted
11/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup water, or as needed
4 medium potatoes, peeled, boiled and mashed
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped ginger root
5 medium cloves garlic
3 to 4 fresh Thai, cayenne or Serrano chilies
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
6 hamburger buns, sliced
To make chutney, heat 6-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add peanuts and roast 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly, or until patchy golden brown spots appear on nuts; transfer to small bowl. If using dry-roasted peanuts, roast 30 seconds to 1 minute to warm them.
In same skillet, add coriander, cumin and chilies; roast blend, stirring constantly, 20 to 30 seconds or until seed crackles and chilies slightly blacken. Mix with peanuts.
Add sesame seed to skillet and toast, stirring constantly, 10 to 15 seconds or until seed crackles and turns golden brown; add to peanut mixture.
Add garlic slices to skillet and stir-fry 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown; add to peanut mixture. Set aside 5 to 10 minutes, or until mixture cools.
In blender or spice grinder, grind peanut mixture until it looks like the texture of coarse bread crumbs. Add salt; mix well.
To make vadas, in medium bowl, combine flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, turmeric and baking soda. Whisk in water, a few tablespoons at a time, to make thick pancakelike batter.
In separate bowl, combine potatoes with remaining salt.
In food processor, finely mince cilantro, ginger root, garlic and chilies. Add to potatoes; mix well.
Divide potato mixture into 12 equal portions. Shape each portion into a ball; press ball between palms of hands into 1/2-inch-thick patty.
In wok or 3-quart saucepan, heat vegetable oil (about 2 to 3 inches deep) on medium heat until thermometer inserted in oil registers 350 degrees.
Completely coat 6 potato patties with batter; slide gently into hot oil. Fry 3 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining patties.
To assemble vada paav, spread 1 tablespoon chutney (or more) on inside slices of each hamburger bun. Place two vadas between each bun; serve immediately. Serves 6.
Source: "The Turmeric Trail" by Raghavan Iyer (St. Martin's Press, 2002)
Meetha Chutney
(Sweet and sour condiment)
11/2 cups water
1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate (see note)
11/2 cups chopped seedless dates
Pinch of ground red pepper (cayenne)
Pinch of salt
In 1-quart saucepan, whisk together water and tamarind until tamarind dissolves. Add remaining ingredients and heat to boil over medium-high heat. Lower heat to medium and simmer uncovered 4 to 6 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Remove from stove and cool 5 to 10 minutes.
Transfer to blender and puree until smooth. Refrigerate in glass, plastic or stainless steel container (the highly acidic tamarind will react with certain metals) for up to a week or freeze for up to a month. Makes 11/4 cups.
Note: Tamarind concentrate is available in plastic jars in Indian, Latin, Asian and Middle Eastern grocery stores. The ethnic sections of certain supermarkets and natural food stores also stock this tart ingredient. It is not necessary to store the concentrate in the refrigerator but if so inclined, by all means, do so!
If using fresh dates, you might have to remove the pits yourself. Pry the date apart with hands and pull out the seed. About 15 medium dates will yield the amount you need for the recipe.
Source: "The Turmeric Trail" by Raghavan Iyer (St. Martin's Press, 2002)
Mirchi Chutney
(Green chili condiment)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
1/4 cup water
8 to 10 fresh Thai, cayenne or Serrano chilies
1 teaspoon coarsely chopped ginger root
1/2 teaspoon salt
In blender, grind all ingredients until smooth.
This will keep in the refrigerator for up to four days or in the freezer for up to a month.
Source: "The Turmeric Trail" by Raghavan Iyer (St. Martin's Press, 2002)
Sev Batata Poori
(Crispy flat bread with potato, mango and noodles)
1/4 cup finely chopped, peeled, unripe green mango
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
1/4 cup finely chopped, peeled, boiled potato
1/2 teaspoon salt
24 mini-pooris (see note)
2 tablespoons mirchi chutney
1/2 cup meetha chutney
1/2 cup thin garbanzo-bean flour noodles (sev) (see note)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
In bowl, combine mango, onion, potato and salt.
On a serving platter, arrange pooris in single layer. Tap a hole in puffed pooris to hold accompaniments. In each poori, place 1 teaspoon of the potato mixture, 1/4 teaspoon mirchi chutney, followed by 1 teaspoon meetha chutney. Sprinkle noodles on pooris and serve immediately, sprinkled with cilantro.
Note: Crisp, golden brown pooris are roughly 2 inches in diameter and cracker-thin. They can be bought flat or puffed, either are suitable for this recipe. Pooris are made with a combination of all-purpose, whole-wheat and semolina flours and will keep at room temperature for up to six weeks in an airtight container or zip-top plastic bag.
An alternative is to use a large flour tortilla. Cut off 2-inch circles of tortillas with a cookie cutter and deep-fry in 350-degree oil for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until golden brown. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serves 6.
Also, garbanzo-bean flour noodles (sev) are widely available in Indian grocery stores in various sizes. For this recipe, choose the ones that are very thin, pale yellow and spicy-mild.
Source: "The Turmeric Trail" by Raghavan Iyer (St. Martin's Press, 2002)
Chana Bhatura
(Garbanzo-bean stew with puffy bread)
For chana (garbanzo-bean stew):
1/2 cup coarsely chopped onion
1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh ginger
3 large cloves garlic
1 to 2 fresh Thai, cayenne or Serrano chilies
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 tablespoon amchur (mango powder) or 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon coriander seed, ground
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup water
1 can (15 ounces) garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained
1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 medium tomato, cut into 1-inch cubes
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon cumin seed, roasted and ground
1 medium lime, cut into wedges
For bhaturas (puffy bread):
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup yogurt
Warm water as needed
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
To make chana, in food processor, finely mince onions, ginger, garlic and chilies.
In 2-quart saucepan, heat oil over medium-high heat; add onion mixture. Stir-fry 3 to 4 minutes until golden brown. Stir in amchur (or lime juice), coriander, salt and turmeric. Cook 30 seconds.
Add remaining ingredients for chana, except 2 tablespoons cilantro, cumin and lime wedges. Heat to boil; reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, 10 to 12 minutes or until potatoes are fork-tender. Remove cover and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes or until sauce slightly thickens.
Stir in cumin and sprinkle remaining cilantro; turn off burner.
To make bhaturas, combine flour, salt and soda in medium bowl. Spoon in 2 tablespoons of yogurt at a time, mixing with hand or spoon, until it comes together into a ball to form soft dough. Add enough yogurt to make smooth, pliable dough that is neither sticky nor dry. Use warm water if additional liquid is needed to bring dough together into a ball. Brush with oil and knead an additional minute.
Cut dough into four equal portions; shape each portion into a smooth round and brush with oil. Keep dough rounds covered under plastic wrap at least 30 minutes to rest (you can refrigerate dough at this point, covered, up to 24 hours; bring it back to room temperature before proceeding).
In wok or 3-quart saucepan, heat vegetable oil (about 2 to 3 inches deep) on medium heat until thermometer inserted in oil registers 375 degrees.
With palm of hand, flatten each dough round into a patty. Keeping remaining patties covered, evenly roll out a patty with rolling pin, without tearing, to form a circle roughly 6 inches in diameter and about 1/4-inch thick. Slip rolled dough in hot oil. With back of slotted spoon, gently and repeatedly submerge dough until it puffs up. Flip once and cook for 10 seconds or until golden brown. Remove from oil; drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining dough.
Serve piping hot bhaturas with chana and wedges of lime. Serves 4.
Source: The "Turmeric Trail" by Raghavan Iyer (St. Martin's Press, 2002)
