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The new taste of Argentina

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published October 1, 2003

Wine buyers who want to explore Argentine wines will often find them next to or mixed in with a larger selection of Chilean wines.

You need not worry about vintages. As with Californians, they generally are good, with 2001 and 2002 well regarded; 1998 is to be avoided.

Malbecs and other reds are better with a few years on them. Torrontes, however, are best young.

Torrontes, Santa Julia, 2002 ($8): Big bouquet of flowers and herbs like gewurz or riesling, with a taste of peaches and a hint of licorice, honeyed texture, easy finish but still crisp. Great food wine, from Latin to Thai.

Torrontes, Crios de Susana Balbo, 2002 ($16): Inviting nose of honey and apricots, crisp taste but too much acidity and sharp on the finish. Indecisive: sweet and sour.

Bonarda/syrah, Crios de Susana Balbo, 2001 ($18): Thick and jammy in the nose and on the tongue, ripe with cherries and plums, chocolatey texture and hints of smoke, smooth with a long finish. Proof of life beyond malbec.

Malbec, Navarro Correas, 2000 ($12): Great aromas of cherries and earthy flavors that turn into a smooth ripe taste that's light on the tongue with a nice finish. Smooth operator. Best malbec of bunch.

Malbec, Gran Vecco, Reserva,2002 ($12): Exceptionally dark purple with a plummy nose and ripe fruit but taste is hampered by tough tannins and alcohol; quite dry. Out of the box too soon.

Malbec, Catena 2001 ($18): Smells of cherries with a whiff of alcohol but tastes like berries in the mouth, quite smooth. Worth the price -- and the wait.

Malbec, Faraon, 1999 ($10): Full flavored with ripe plums and berries from the aroma through to a pleasing. A big friendly wine that will get even more sociable.

Cabernet sauvignon, Faraon, 1999 ($10): Smells of plums, leather and smoke, but has a soft cherry taste and round texture. Cru bourgeois Bordeaux grown in Argentina by Italian immigrants.

[Last modified October 1, 2003, 12:24:06]

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