A mangrove forest gives a glimpse into the state's wild side.
By wire services
Published October 5, 2003
SANIBEL - At the entrance to the J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge, there's an exhibit of an ecologically correct organic system that shows how plants can be used to help break down human waste and produce water pure enough for fish to live in. Many visitors who stop to view this exhibit comment on how a toilet system can be so interesting.
The mangrove forests on this barrier island serve as a sanctuary for about 200 species of birds. The refuge is named for a Pulizer Prize-winning editorial cartoonist who helped preserve the area by initiating a federal Duck Stamp program in 1934. A new duck stamp has been issued every year since, and proceeds from the sale have purchased wetlands for about 200 national wildlife refuges.
There are several ways to tour this 5,220-acre refuge, which is open every day except Fridays. You can drive, walk or cycle along a five-mile trail, take guided tours or even canoe through part of it. There are usually two guided tours daily.
The refuge gets about 800,000 visitors a year; on the day we visited, the tours were almost all booked and we got the last seats on the tram.
Two lucky breaks made the investment worthwhile. One was our guide, Bob Mitchell, an affable veteran of the trail who knows every bird and its habits. The other bit of luck was spotting Wilma, the only crocodile in the refuge.
Wilma, estimated to be 25 years old and 12 feet long, was first sighted in the refuge in 1984. Our load of visitors clambered out of the tram and followed her path downstream, 30 cameras at the ready. Our guide noted that you can tell crocodiles from alligators by their teeth: Crocodiles have large protruding teeth; alligators' mouths hide their lower teeth.
Mitchell also introduced us to a variety of birds, including the roseate spoonbill, the tricolor heron, white ibis, the great egret and the smaller snowy egret with bright yellow legs.
Among the animals that live in the refuge are turtles, river otters, armadillos and rabbits. There are also bald eagles here. the wildlife is most active early in the mornings and around sunset.
If you go
GETTING THERE: The refuge is on Sanibel Island, about 15 miles southwest of Fort Myers. Take Interstate 75 south and exit at signs for Fort Myers and Sanibel. Take County Road 867 onto Sanibel and follow the island's main road, Periwinkle Way, for about three miles.
HOURS: The Education Center, with exhibits, an orientation video and information desk, is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily from November through April, and 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., May through October.
THE TRAILS: There is a five-mile paved road, with interpretive signs and an observation tower. It is open to vehicles, pedestrians and bicyclists, from sunrise to sunset every day except Friday. The front gate opens to vehicles one hour after sunrise and closes half an hour before sunset. The fee is $5 per vehicle; because the refuge is operated by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. it accepts the various federal park annual passes.
There are also five walking trails, ranging to 2.5 miles in length, and two marked canoe trails; canoes and kayaks can be rented at the sanctuary. Themed guided tours focus on the birds and the history of the native Calusa Indians.
Remember your binoculars, camera and sunscreen.
DING DARLING DAYS: A number of events will take place from Oct. 12-18 during the annual Ding Darling Days, including lessons in wildlife photography and performances by actors and musicians. For a schedule of events and more information, go to the refuge's Web site, dingdarling.fws.gov.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: Contact the refuge at by calling 239 472-1100; fax to (239) 472- 4061; e-mail to DingDarling@fws.gov