A 2-pound head-on fish spooks some diners, but I can't pass one up, whether it's snapper, sea bass, flounder, pompano or porgy. Steamed, wok-fried or barbecued, it's a great presentation. I've had them grilled a la Grecque at Mykonos in Tarpon Springs, salt-crusted in Spanish restaurants, sizzling crisp in Asian restaurants of every flavor. It's not that hard to work around the bones, and it's a useful reminder that fish don't start out as fillets.
