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CHENGDU, China - At table No. 6, a man and woman deftly snag the last kernels of corn from the plate. Nearby, a businessman lifts a clump of noodles mouthward. Niu Ming, a tiny waiter with an enormous smile, makes a rapid scissors motion with her right hand as she watches them.
"Chopsticks make your hands stronger and build your muscles," says Niu, on duty at the Old Gedou Sichuan Specialties Restaurant, which serves the peppery cuisine typical of this region of western China, known to Americans as Szechwan.
In a land where 1.3-billion people consider chopsticks, or kuaizi, a virtual extension of the right hand, affinity for the ancient implements runs deep. That's why a new study released in the United States doesn't sit well. Its conclusion: Long-term use of chopsticks may increase the risk of arthritis.
"Arthritis? From chopsticks?" Niu scoffs. "Not likely."
In research presented this fall to the American College of Rheumatology, investigators studied 2,607 60-year-old residents of Beijing, the Chinese capital. They interviewed subjects about chopstick use and tested them for increased joint stress.
"This study suggests that chopsticks may play a role in the development of hand osteoarthritis," Dr. David Hunter, an assistant professor at Boston University School of Medicine and the lead investigator, said in a statement.
Science is one thing, though, and culture another. It's understandable that a study questioning an age-old way of life - no matter that the research methods were sound or that five of the nine researchers have Chinese names - might touch a nerve.
"Ridiculous," snaps Dr. Cao Li, a physician at the bone department of Beijing's Xuanwu Hospital. "I have been here for many years, and I've never seen a single case of arthritis that could be linked to chopsticks."
Says Yang Jianping, a Sichuanese who has never used a fork: "I've walked with my feet since I was born. Does that mean my feet will get arthritis? I've chewed with my mouth since I was born. Does that mean my mouth will have arthritis? I think my hand will be just fine."
So, could the study herald the dawn of a nation of diners who eat with forks and knives - and, given the imminent arrival of Taco Bell, sporks?
Unlikely, says Ma Huidi, a professor at the Institute of Chinese Culture in Beijing.
"Chinese people have been using chopsticks for more than 3,000 years," Ma says. "Younger generations tend to try new ways of life and taste new cultures. But chopsticks are an important part of Chinese food culture and will never disappear from people's lives."
Niu, the Chengdu waiter, isn't too concerned either.
"My friends, none of them are using a fork or a spoon. In 200 years, we Chinese will still be using chopsticks no matter what the rest of the world is doing," Niu says.