Cos d'Estournel is a rare and expensive Bordeaux, not an everyday wine for anyone.
A few fine wine shops carry recent vintages and sell futures. Those most commonly available, 2000, 2001 and 2002, are well-regarded and will cost $150 or more.
Older vintages are found primarily in private cellars and at auction. Bern's Steak House's cellar has wines from the vintages of 1937, '45, '47, '49, '50, '52, '53, '59, '61, '62, '82, '93, '94, '95 and more recent years.
For less expense, look for Chateau Cos d'Estournel's second label, Les Pagodes, or explore other wines from the commune of St. Estephe.
The following vintages of Cos d'Estournel were tasted this month. Those interested in other years can consult the chateau's Web site, www.cosestournel.com
* Ch. Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 1996: Dark, black-red color with a spicy nose of blackberries, tobacco and cedar. Strong fruit flavors and sturdy tannin with long, rich finish. A great one in the making.
* Ch. Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 1993: A nose and taste of cherries in a graceful package, remarkably round and smooth. Average never tasted so sophisticated. Drink it right now.
* Ch. Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 1986: Rich and flowery, with lots of berries, pepper and spice, still tannic and intense. At 18, its life is just beginning.
* Ch. Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 1975: Big bouquet of jam, licorice and tobacco, but refined texture, tasting of blackberries and plums, with enough acid for backbone. Mature but young at heart.
* Ch. Cos d'Estournel, St. Estephe, Bordeaux, 1970: Smells like a fruitcake fresh from the oven; grapes, plums and a bit of smoke, tastes of jammy fruits kissed with chocolate. Slips easily in the mouth. Who needs dessert?
