It's not everyday dining, but we have plenty of that. This Palm Harbor gem shines with polished service, bold flavors and a grand vision.
By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published April 8, 2004
[Times photo: Scott Keeler]
Chef Massimo Patano of Massimo’s in Palm Harbor poses with some of his creations including, clockwise from bottom, rack of lamb stuffed with foie gras and dried cherry in a vanilla spumante sauce with mint balsamic, chocolate risotto with macadamia and coconuts, Chilean sea bass with sun-dried tomato and herb pesto, and a tuna roll appetizer with smoked salmon and boursin cheese.
PALM HARBOR - Starving for fine dining, Palm Harbor fretted when Jack's Bistro closed and then cheered when Massimo Patano, longtime sous-chef at Armani's in Tampa, took over the space, tucked behind Outback on U.S. 19.
The place has the same spare, elegant look, complete with wall-mounted waterfalls, but Patano has taken charge. His taste for bold flavors, luxury and innovation is evident in Massimo's dining room, with its polished team service, and in the kitchen's menu of old Italian and French concepts with modern trends and presentation.
The best example is cheesecake, a three-cheese affair: cream cheese, ricotta and Gorgonzola. But before you can say, "Not sweet . . . intriguing," Patano drips it in chocolate. It's strong, rich and quite good.
Or a "flan"' of crab meat, eggy rich and gilded with creamy avocado, fine foils for tart pineapple and cilantro.
Some may think these flavors and flourishes too extravagant for a roadside attraction on U.S. 19; Patano cannot do less. If the mushrooms were not baked into a timbale, the meats not stuffed with hazelnuts or sage or anything else in his bold imagination, it might as well not be Massimo's.
If you take your rack of lamb straight, there are alternatives. If you would try the rack perfectly cooked with a sweet treasure of foie gras and dried cherries in the center, there are not. It's the kind of confection Patano can't resist. Nor can I. And once you're over the top, why not add a spumante "foam" of vanilla and serve it with tomato polenta and baby bok choy? That'll get you to eat your cabbage.
Other dishes on my first visit were not as brave or successful. Lobster bisque was properly luscious, but I had been seduced by the promise of crispy black pepper noodles. Ordinary Chinese noodles were substituted, and the effect was just that. A salad with diver scallops was too skimpy on the star ingredient.
Sweetbreads were the best entree, classically sauteed and served over a coulis of sweet peas. The pureed peas needed more green, vitality and mint (and the medley of broccoli, cauliflower and carrottes shouldn't be in the kitchen), but the sweetbreads held up their part of the bargain.
I was delighted to see pappardelle and porcini, my fave pasta and fave mushrooms, with Parmesan in a cheese basket, but the result was too dry and sticky. I'd use a freshly fried basket and add cream, a little olive oil or Marsala to refresh the pasta.
Still, it's encouraging to see a talented hotel chef leave the grand corporate precincts for a small shop under his own shingle. Patano has wowed local chef contests when cooking solo, so this is a chance for him to get back to the pot-banging most chefs love. Here the kitchen can make many of the elements in-house, from icy espresso granita to a pungent sourdough olive loaf, all the more savory with an artichoke-arugula butter.
He also has the assistance of some first-rate staff. Although the server failed a key menu test on my first visit, my second meal turned up great service from everyone on the floor. That included a waiter who knew the food and the wine intimately (help you might need flirting with nero d'avola from Sicily), proper changes of silverware, and the offer of not one but two penlights to a diner who was reading.
Such creative cooking and good service make for a special treat that commands a high price and requires a detour around the Outback crowds. Massimo's is not for everyday dining, but of that we have plenty. He aims for something grander, and why not?
P.S.: Meanwhile, back at the hotel, Armani's has installed Patrizio Turco of Ostuni, Italy, as manager and Eugene Iraci of Padova, Italy, and most recently Jebel Ali resort in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, as chef.
Massimo's
31876 U.S. 19 N
Palm Harbor
(727) 784-1881
Hours: 5:30 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Saturday
