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Taste test: Reduced-carb food: hits and misses

By JANET K. KEELER
Published April 21, 2004

The grocery store aisles are filling up with products geared for "low-carb lifestyles."

The best among them are sweets, but be warned of the sugar alcohols used to replace sugar or high fructose. They have a laxative effect.

In my taste test, I found bread to be among the worst of the offerings. Many of the products have an unpleasant aftertaste, probably due to artificial sweeteners.

Nevertheless, when you're on a diet, something is sometimes better than nothing at all. Here's what I found:

Recommended

KOZY SHACK NO SUGAR ADDED TAPIOCA

4 ounces: 90 calories, 11g carb, 3g fat

$3.24 for a four-pack

Not much tapioca but still has satisfying flavor and texture in the mouth.

SILHOUETTE SKINNY CARB BAR CHOCOLATE PEANUT BUTTER

1 bar: 150 calories, 13g carb, 11g fat

$4.99 for six

Strong chocolate flavor but wimpy feeling in the mouth; not quite as airy as a mousse bar. A good buy for dieters craving something sweet.

CARB COUNTDOWN DAIRY BEVERAGE

1 cup: 100 calories, 2g carb, 4.5g fat

$2.29 for a half-gallon

Yummy, slightly sweet drink made from milk. Tastes something like coffee creamer so it might not be satisfactory on its own for more than a couple ofa sips. Great on cereal.

BEN & JERRY'S CARB KARMA CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

1/2 cup: 150 calories, 4g net carb, 12g fat

$3.59 for one pint

Like biting into a tasty, chocolate cloud. Doesn't have near the fullness of regular or even low-fat ice creams but is still good enough to tempt any dieter to eat the whole container.

CARB OPTIONS HICKORY BARBECUE SAUCE

2 tablespoons: 10 calories, 3g carb, no fat

$2.49 for 16 ounces

Delicious and tangy with lots of body.

Recommended with reservations

CARB COUNTING WHEAT BREAD

1 slice: 70 calories, 10g carb, 1.5g fat

$3.19 for a loaf

Rubbery and chewy but substantial enough for a sandwich with lots of fixings. Not great but better than some other low-carb breads on the market.

KRAFT CARB WELL RANCH DRESSING

2 tablespoons: 60 calories, 0g carb, 11g fat

$1.97 for 16 ounces

It's better than fat-free ranch dressing but still suffers from the same metallic aftertaste. More watery than regular versions. Will probably appeal to dieters who just can't give up ranch in favor of the many low-carb dressings on the market.

LIFE CHOICE HERB ROASTED CHICKEN DINNER

1 dinner: 390 calories, 15g carb, 19g fat

$3.79 for one frozen dinner

Meal consists of small drumstick and thigh baked with diced apples, plus cauliflower and broccoli in separate compartments. The chicken was surprisingly tasty; robust seasonings and juicy meat. Vegetable portions were only about 1/4 cup. The carbs probably came from the apples, which were the least likable feature of the meal because they were mushy.

Not recommended

THE FATHER'S TABLE CARB COUNTER VANILLA CHEESECAKE

1 slice of 6-inch cheesecake: 260 calories, 9g carb, 23g fat

$7.99 for one cake

The label doesn't tell you but we will: Part of the reason for the reduced carbs is that there is no crust. A clever idea but the cheesy filling isn't good enough to make you forget the graham cracker base. It's not sweet enough and leaves a bitter aftertaste.

MORNINGSTAR FARMS VEGGIE SAUSAGE PATTIES

1 patty: 80 calories, 3g carb, 3g fat

$3.19 for 8 ounces

These faux sausages are low in carbs, all right, but they are also dull, rubbery and seedy. Something like chewing on a pine cone.

DANNON LIGHT 'N FIT CARB CONTROL YOGURT, STRAWBERRIES 'N CREAM

4 ounces: 60 calories, 3g carb, 3g fat

$2.29 for a four-pack

Not much flavor and watery. An unsatisfying snack.

NATURE'S OWN WHEAT 'N FIBER BREAD

1 slice: 60 calories, 7g carb, no fat

$2.19 for one loaf

Flimsy, rubbery and bitter all at the same time.

LOWREY'S ORIGINAL PORK RINDS

1/2 microwaveable bag: 60 calories, less than 1g carb, 2g fat

$2.79 for three 1.75-ounce bags

There is nothing redeemable about this product. Well, okay, it gives good crunch. Otherwise, the "flavorings" are overpowering and an unpleasant taste lingers. Is it oregano and chili powder?

[Last modified April 20, 2004, 10:57:38]

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  • Taste test: Reduced-carb food: hits and misses
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