By PAM BROWN and NANCY VOLMAR
Published May 1, 2004
[Times files (2001)]
Caterpillars will munch a lot of foliage on their way to becoming butterflies.
May is a great gardening month. There is pruning to do, and it is time to plant summer annuals. At least once a week, check your plants for insects that lurk in, on and around them. It is easier to remove one leaf with aphids than to let the pests spread over new growth and have to spray.
Insect roundup
Young mole crickets are starting to appear. They are very cannibalistic; a high percentage of nymphs will devour each other and the unhatched eggs. When mole crickets come to the soil's surface, they become food for numerous predators, among them fire ants, ground beetles, Labidura earwigs and Lycosa spiders.
Grubs and mole crickets are delicacies to armadilloes and raccoons, but these animals can do major damage to a lawn when they dig for these treats.
In North and Central Florida, mid to late June is the ideal time to use chemical control to catch the hatchlings. It's best to treat them when they are young: Mature mole crickets are very difficult to kill.
Pesticides labeled for mole cricket control are: Orthene, a turf, tree and ornamental spray; Oftanol (1.5 percent); Turcam (2.5 percent); or Dursban (0.5 percent) bait. Follow label instructions; be sure the pesticide you purchase is labeled for use on lawns.
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Adult thrips, which are small black insects, attack the flower buds of gardenias, hibiscus, orchids and other plants, causing discoloration and bud drop.
Even if the blooms open, it is difficult to use them as cut flowers because they are full of bugs. Spray plants with Orthene, Isotox, Cygon or any other product labeled for use on thrips. Follow directions, and remember that some plants can be injured by chemicals or oil.
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Caterpillars are the larval stages of moths or butterflies. These insects develop from an egg laid by either an adult butterfly or moth. As soon as the egg hatches, the caterpillar begins to eat. When they are small, their damage is not noticeable, but as they mature, leaves, buds and plant stems begin to disappear. If you are developing a butterfly garden, you must accept this stage of their life. When the caterpillar is fully developed, it will form a cocoon (or chrysalis case) to complete its metamorphosis.
The larvae of moths are not as desirable as those of butterflies and are usually more numerous. Either handpick them from plants or spray them with organic products such as thuricide, Dipel or Biotrol.
Speaking of butterflies
Aristolochiaspp, commonly called Dutchman's pipe, is a splendid butterfly vine. It is a rapid grower with large, dark-green leaves and flowers that resemble a pipe. Pipevine swallowtail butterflies are strongly attracted to this plant.
Mind your mint
Mint is a wonderful plant for the herb garden or just as a border, but it has an extremely invasive root system. Unless you have the room, it is best to plant mint in decorative pots or have a barrier to prevent its spread. Mint is easily propagated from just a small root section.
Plant rejuvenation
Now is the time to fertilize annuals, azaleas, bananas, bromeliads, figs, gardenias, grape vines, hibiscus, papayas, roses and vegetables. Other plants may also need fertilizing if they are not growing properly or are showing a deficiency.
Nature's coverups
Vines can fill a multitude of landscape needs. They can change a drab wall into a mass of foliage and flowers. Placed on a fence or trellis, vines can screen undesirable views and even soften bare buildings. Vines can be used for temporary shade while trees are getting established. Old stumps covered with vines resemble a shrub, and the vines hide the stump while it rots away.
Vines can add beauty to small areas too confined for trees or shrubs. Native vines, such as Carolina jasmine or coral honeysuckle, are well suited to this area.
Mildew, take a powder
Be on the lookout for powdery mildew. It covers the leaves and buds of crape myrtles, roses, zinnias, melons and other plants. Powdery mildew develops during warm, humid weather. Because the mildew looks like talcum powder, you might be tempted to wash it off, but don't: That only spreads the spores to other parts of the plant. Use a product labeled for mildew control, such as Safer's Dithane or Funginex.
How to handle chlorosis
As the weather warms, you may notice chlorosis (yellow leaves) on some plants, among them bottlebrush, citrus, eucalyptus, gardenias, oleanders, ixoras, azaleas, camellias, roses and lawn grasses. Yellow foliage, especially if the veins remain dark green, may be a sign of an iron deficiency. Use iron chelate or iron sulfate to correct this problem.
If yellowing continues, check for other problems, such as nitrogen, magnesium or manganese deficiencies. Overwatering and poor light also cause yellow foliage. The old leaves on hibiscus and gardenias may turn bright yellow before they are shed, but this is a natural occurrence.
Go for the mow
When you mow, make sure no more than one-third of the total leaf surface is removed. Lawn grasses growing in shady areas will benefit by keeping the grass slightly higher than normally recommended.
Bahiagrass can be maintained at 3 to 4 inches, while St. Augustine grasses are best kept at a height of 21/2 to 31/2 inches.
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Grass diseases are common in Florida, particularly during warm, humid weather. Most of the common turf diseases are caused by fungus organisms that affect the leaf blades, stems and/or the roots of grasses.
Excessive thatch buildup, poor air circulation and overwatering contribute to the spread of disease in lawns.
If you have questions about your lawn, take a turf sample to your local County Extension Office for examination. The sample should be about 6 inches square and contain both good and bad grass, intermingled or side by side.
Getting grounded
There are several tough, salt-tolerant ground covers that will grow inland or near the beach, where grass may not thrive. Some selections include:
* Shore juniper: This prostrate, creeping plant is extremely salt-, heat- and drought-tolerant.
* Lantana: Native and hybrid lantanas that can be used as ground covers or small shrubs.
* Sea grape: A native plant with large, round, red-veined leaves that can be planted on the dunes to reduce erosion.
* Liriope: A member of the lily family, these plants resemble grass and are often used as a lawn substitute.
* Confederate jasmine: Dwarf forms of Confederate jasmine make a thick mat over the soil. Good for banks and erosion areas.
* Algerian ivy: A relative of English ivy with variegated leaves, it will grow in sun or shade.
* English ivy: It grows in very shady areas, and its shallow roots will not compete with tree roots.
Other choices for sunny areas are artemisia, beach sunflower, beach morning glory, creeping fig, gaillardia, periwinkle, purslane, wedelia and coontie.
Nip flower drop in the bud
Premature flower drop on tomatoes can be caused by high temperatures, improper irrigation, insects or overfertilizing with nitrogen.
You have little control over the weather, but you can change the way you fertilize. Use 5-10-10, 8-10-12, or 2-10-10 fertilizer. Check your plants daily for insects and be prepared to take control measures when necessary. Sometimes just removing a leaf will eliminate an insect or disease problem. Irrigate regularly (every two to three days), supplying about 1 inch of water each week.
Plants growing in containers may need watering more often. For a free brochure on vegetable gardening, send a self-addressed, stamped envelope (37 cents) to "Vegetable Gardening," Pinellas County Extension Service, 12175 125th St. N, Largo, FL 33774.
Compiled by Pam Brown and Nancy Volmar of the Pinellas County Extension Service. If you have questions, call them at (727) 582-2100.
