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Spanish law sets minimum requirements for aging: Crianzas are the youngest, aged one year in barrel and another in bottle; reservas are aged one year in barrel and two in bottle; gran reservas must be aged two years in wood and a total five years before release.
The best recent years are 1982, 1989, 1995, 1996 and 1997; 2001 looks very good.
Decant vintages more than 10 years old.
Bodegas Montecillo, Rioja ($7 to $10 at release for crianza; $15 and more for other grades: The Columbia restaurant in Ybor City stocks vintages from 1997 back to 1982, priced from $44 to $140).
1981 Gran Reserva: A refined and complex wine, with a flowery nose, peppery flavors, silky texture and long, polished finish. Still not released.
1982 Reserva: Lovely fruit and spice in the nose, with smooth, silky tastes of plums and berries with a hint of licorice. A classic. Drink it if you can find one.
1985 Gran Reserva: Full-bodied, strong flavors of cherries with a minimum of wood, hints of cedar. Drinkable now with more life to give.
1991 Gran Reserva: Full of blueberries with a concentrated punch of grape jam. Smooth, slightly tart with an acid backbone that will still be standing for your children.
1995 Gran Reserva: Merlot-soft with tastes of blueberry and blackberry backed up by strong tannin. Drink now or keep for a long time.
2000 Crianza: Clean, crimson color, smooth texture with light bouquet of cherries, berries and spice. Still tart and a bit tannic.
Vega-Sicilia, Valbuena de Duero
1991 Unico ($225): Deep rich color remarkably smooth combination of tempranillo and cabernet;, elegant, lightly spiced and still with a strong acid backbone.
1999 Valbuena, 5 Anos ($80): Tempranillo with a little malbec and merlot makes this taste close to a Bordeaux, its berries and plums robed in chocolate.