The Golden Isles of Georgia's coast offer Southern luxury, but back on the mainland, Brunswick's pleasures are down to earth.
By DIANE DANIEL
Published May 30, 2004
[Photo: Diane Daniel]
The Lovers’ Oak, said to be 900 years old, is just one of the old-fashioned attractions to be found in Brunswick, Ga.
BRUNSWICK, Ga. - What the world leaders at the Bush-hosted G8 Summit will see next week from their perch in Sea Island, Ga., will be a secluded spit of land lined with private retreats and public resorts, including the Cloister, where the summit will be held. What they likely won't see is the real world, some 10 miles away, across the causeway and over the 14-month-old majestic, cable-stayed Sidney Lanier Bridge.
There lies Brunswick, a working class city of 15,600 between Jacksonville and Savannah, Ga. (Glynn County's population, excluding the islands, is 66,284). Tourism marketers link Brunswick to the Golden Isles of Georgia, but in reality the city doesn't have a whole lot in common with its more upscale neighbors, the barrier islands of St. Simons Island, Little St. Simons Island, Sea Island and Jekyll Island. Unless, of course, you count the fact that probably more than half of the islands' service employees live in more-affordable Brunswick.
The isles should not be ignored - I spent half my weekend touring them. But for me, one who eschews upscale boutiques, golf courses and gated dwellings in favor of more down-to-earth fare, Brunswick was where I wanted to lay my head at night.
I stationed myself at WatersHill Bed & Breakfast, a grand old Victorian on Union Street, which is the main street through Old Town, the turn-of-the-century residential section. Proprietors and Atlanta transplants Jack Waters and Mathew Hill have outfitted the place with an over-the-top decor. Victoriana is paired with leopard-skin touches. In the dining room, colorful Depression glassware joins a lot of other glassware. Tallulah Bankhead and Noel Coward could have thrown a marvelous party here.
The map you should get before arriving or at the area's visitor center, at U.S. 17 and the St. Simons causeway, is Brunswick and the Golden Isles Driving Tours. Plan to spend a full day visiting the sights on St. Simons, Sea Island and Jekyll Island. All are connected by narrow, often congested roads. Highlights on St. Simons include the fishing pier, lighthouse, beaches and the ruins of Fort Frederica, built by Gen. James Oglethorpe in 1736. On Jekyll Island, which the state took over in 1947, don't miss the 200-acre National Historic Landmark District of former winter homes of Victorian-era millionaires.
The secluded island of Little St. Simons, which is privately owned, can be reached only by ferry. Its lodge is available to overnight guests for $219 a night per person, including meals and activities. After Oct. 1, the rate reverts to its winter figure of $600 per couple per night. Day-trippers may visit at certain times, for $130 a person. (1-888-733-5774, www.littlestsimonsisland.com.)
Now, back to the real world. Unfortunately, Brunswick doesn't have a detailed guide of its own, so the Golden Isles' driving tour map will have to suffice. If you want more details, advised Meredith Hanak, director of the Downtown Development Authority, "Just ask any business some questions. They love to tell you what's going on."
First, stop at Lovers' Oak, a sprawling tree draped with Spanish moss said to be 900 years old. As legend goes, it has been a meeting place for centuries. When I drove by, a few watercolorists had their easels set up on the street corner to paint the graceful landmark.
As you continue through the streets of Old Town, which are laid out in a grid pattern, don't be misled by the numbered signs in front of several turn-of-the-century houses. They coincide with the neighborhood's Old Town Driving Tour books, which are out of print and no one can seem to find.
Stop at the old courthouse downtown to examine one of the finest examples of Carpenter Gothic architecture in the state. The building is being renovated. During business hours you can walk inside for a view of the original staircase, horsehair plaster walls and 17-foot-tall wooden doors. The development authority here can be a good resource for travelers. Inquire about occasional walking tours.
The courthouse is flanked by Newcastle Street, downtown's main street. Like many blue-collar cities rehabbing their historic downtowns, Brunswick has a mix of lovingly restored and painfully neglected buildings. It's a work in progress, with huge potential, and tremendous progress has been made in the past five years.
One of the pioneers was Alix Kenagy, who left successful restaurants in Atlanta to open Cargo Portside Grill in Brunswick four years ago. It's still Brunswick's only true upscale restaurant and is so revered that it draws a large island crowd nightly.
Down the street is the charming Hattie's Books. Owner Wendy Beeker has turned this former men's clothing shop into a home for books, some antiques and Beeker's own pillows and cushions covered with vintage fabrics. Beeker is proud to relate that George Owens, who ran the clothing store from 1913 to 1994, was one of the first white business owners to open his doors to black people.
Across the street is the Gallery on Newcastle, run by artists Janet Powers and Paul Stanton. The couple did a phenomenal job historically restoring the 1888 building, a former funeral home, and filled it with the area's most impressive collection of Southeast art.
A block away is the downtown waterfront, also a work in progress, where working shrimp boats dock. With seafood on the mind, drive a mile or so to check out Jay's Fish Hut, a local institution where $7 will get you a plate heaped with fried fish or shrimp and two sides. Next to me a table of office workers dug in after they held hands in prayer.
One of the area's most famous landmarks is the Lanier Oak, where poet Sidney Lanier was inspired to write The Marshes of Glynn in the 1870s. With U.S. 17 traffic speeding by, he probably wouldn't be so moved today. Across the highway is Overlook Park, a nice vantage point for viewing the marshes and river networks that flank Brunswick and lead to the Golden Isles - where the other half lives.
Diane Daniel is a freelance writer living in Durham, N.C.
IF YOU GO
GETTING THERE: Brunswick is about 300 miles from Tampa, a drive of about five hours, or about one hour north of Jacksonville. The quickest route is north on Interstate 75 to Interstate 10, east toward Jacksonville and then north on Interstate 95 to the exit sign for Brunswick.
The Brunswick and the Golden Isles Visitor Center is at the intersection of U.S. 17 and the St. Simons F. J. Torras Causeway. Call toll-free 1-800-809-1790; the Web site is www.bgicvb.com
STAYING THERE: The Web site lists 41 lodgings, including campgrounds and RV parks. I stayed at the WatersHill Bed & Breakfast, where the rates range from $85 to $115. The B&B is at 728 Union St., Brunswick. Call 912 264-4262; www.watershill.com
If you want to go a lot higher, you can try the Lodge on Little St. Simons Island. Call toll-free 1-888-733-5774; www.littlestsimonsisland.com
EATING THERE: For upscale dining try the Cargo Portside Grill, 1423 Newcastle St. Entrees are $17.95-$24.95. Call 912 267-7330 or visit the Web site at www.cargoportsidegrill.com
For good seafood at a reasonable price, visit Jay's Fish Hut, 1209 Gloucester St. Fish and two sides, $6.50-$7.50. Call (912) 554-2114.
PLACES THERE: Hattie's Books, 1527 Newcastle St., has a big reading room and features many books from local authors. Call 912 554-8677 or on the Web at www.hattiesbooks.com
The Gallery on Newcastle, 1626 Newcastle St., features the works of local artists. Call (912) 554-0056; www.thegalleryonnewcastle.com
