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Taster's Choice: In franks, there's a clear top dog

KATHY SAUNDERS
Published June 30, 2004

With the dog days of summer hovering, hot dogs were the obvious choice to launch our first taste test. Plus, we know many of you will be eating them at Fourth of July festivities.

Some on our panel had not bought hot dogs in years. Another, with four children at home, said they were a daily staple.

We tested seven all-beef varieties found prepacked at the deli counter and in the refrigerated meat case at a local supermarket. (There are many more to choose from, including fat-free and light, in a variety of sizes.) Tasters sampled the dogs naked, though they could have eaten them with buns. We avoided condiments so the true taste would be evident.

The panel was surprised how different the hot dogs tasted.

One dog clearly stood out. All of the panelists said they would buy Nathan's skinless beef franks ($3.79). Panelists raved about their size, meaty taste, "puffiness," deep color and shape.

One panelist said the Nathan's hot dog tasted more like a smokey sausage "best cooked in beer!"

Our non-hot-dog-buying panelist said he took a second bite of the Nathan's sample.

The next dog to get good reviews was the most expensive, Boar's Head skinless ($5.19). Panelists said it was meaty and firm, "but a little slim on size." Three of the panelists said they would buy the Boar's Head variety.

Vienna Beef Chicago Franks ($3.49) and Jordan's Natural Casing Franks ($3.99) tied for third. Panelists described a mild flavor, good color and chewy texture with the Chicago version. One panelist complained that it was too salty, and another described it as greasy with tough skin. Two would buy these, and two would not.

The same number said they would purchase Jordan's hot dogs. Both liked the mild taste and the texture. One panelist described the skin color as "a little sad," and the other said the casing was tough, "almost plastic."

Oscar Meyer ($3.49) got a nod from one panelist who raved about the "slick, soft casing" and the strong color. Another said the flavor was strong enough for her to consider buying it. But she was on the fence.

Ball Park Franks ($2.50) were plump (just like the ads say), dark, juicy and soft-skinned, according to one panelist. But he was alone on his take. The others complained that the Ball Park hot dog was too short for the bun. "It looks like it got off the short bus," said one. For that reason, three of the panelists would not buy this variety.

Publix brand hot dogs ($2.19) will still be in the store refrigerator when our panelists shop for beef franks. They described the supermarket brand as "skinny," "wimpy," "limp" and "too salty." They said the flavor was bland. None of the panelists would buy this brand.

Panelists were Nan Jensen, home economist with Pinellas County Family and Consumer Services; Bob Devin Jones, actor, director and playwright; Julie Overton, personal chef; and Jim Yockey, aesthetician, Tierra Verde Salon and Day Spa. All products were tasted blind.

- Send suggestions for product testing to Taste section, St. Petersburg Times, 490 First Ave. S, St. Petersburg, FL 33701, or e-mail them to krieta@sptimes.com Please put TEST SUGGESTION in the subject line.

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