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Cork & Bottle

Hold the cheese, please

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published August 4, 2004

  photo   photo
[Times photos: Scott Keeler]
Table Water Crackers, Carr’s (England). Wine Crackers, OTC (U.S.).

photo photo
Wine Biscuits, red wine with black pepper variety (U.S.). Paris Toasts, Anco (France).

photo photo
Tarallini, Tarallifico dei Trulli, fennel seed (Italy). Toasted Wheat Crackers, Simply Grand (U.S.).

Suppose they gave a wine party and no one invited the cheese. Not a problem. Set out crackers, and you could still have fun with a surprising variety of tastes and maybe a clearer sense of the wine.

Indeed, when wine snobs taste seriously they look for neutral crackers with the least flavor and little salt, so that cracker and a sip of water cleanse the palate. There are plenty of wine crackers that fit that description.

Yet many breadstuffs go with wine, plain or flavored (Italy has the most), most with less salt and butter than we like in everyday cheese 'n' snacker crackers.

You may have already tried French bread, bruschetta, biscotti, long crostini sticks or circles of friselle, so we sampled a few in the daintier range.

P.S. We're just kidding about skipping the cheese. Bring out the French onion dip, too.

1. Table Water Crackers, Carr's (England).

The classic. Dry, thin and plain as matzoh, very lightly salted. Best with cream cheese, caviar and Champagne.

2. Tarallini, Tarallifico dei Trulli, fennel seed (Italy).

The artisanal snack of Apulia, long on oil, sometimes flavored with onion, hot pepper or oregano, looks like a homemade pretzel. And it tastes as dense, oily and crisp, with a hint of white wine and small bursts of licorice. Best with Italian red or fresh white and antipasto.

3. Paris Toasts, Anco (France).

Small simple toasts, these have great crunch and a slight smoky, very mild flavor with a hint of sweetness and butter. Best with any spread for canapes and fine with light reds or fleshy whites.

4. Toasted Wheat Crackers, Simply Grand (U.S.).

Little salt, dry and very bready with a slight sweetness and hint of nuts. Best with big reds or as palate cleanser.

5. Wine Biscuits, red wine with black pepper variety (U.S.).

Like a homemade biscuit spiked with black pepper, mild fiery finish. Best with zinfandel and tasty on its own.

6. Wine Crackers, OTC (U.S.).

Larger than an oyster cracker, surprisingly dense and vanilla-sweet with a hint of lemon, as satisfying as a cookie. Dry. Best with buttery chardonnay or Darjeeling tea.

[Last modified August 3, 2004, 11:22:09]

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