The following tasting notes cover products from two branches of Sebastiani wineries. Some demonstrate the new, polished Sonoma wines from the original Sebastiani winery. The Aquinas is one of modestly priced labels created by Don Sebastiani & Sons, which also produces Pepperwood Grove and Smoking Loon.
Cabernet sauvignon (with 22 percent merlot), Sebastiani, Cherryblock Estate, Centinaio, 2001 ($70). A commemorative bottling, small in number and high in price, it's a showoff of intense ripeness. Barely 3 years old, it is inky purple, syrup-thick and grape-jammy sweet with a rich smoked meat in the background. Serve with prime rib - or instead of it.
Cabernet sauvignon, Sebastiani, Sonoma County, 1999 ($15). The main tier from a fine year, this cabernet is still restrained but opens into a smokey, oaky glass of smoothly textured red fruits spiked with pepper and licorice. Well worth keeping.
Merlot, Aquinas, Napa 2002 ($11). Young but already rich and thick bodied, it has a deep crimson color, violets in the nose and ripe tastes of cherries and blueberries with hints of spice. Unlikely to be a keeper, but who's waiting?
Merlot, Sebastiani, Sonoma County, 1999 ($15). Somewhat tight and thin with a whiff of alcohol at first, but blossoms into a merlot of Italian persuasion and sturdy structure of wood and acid. Taste is more complex than cherries and chocolate; you'll get blackberries, thorns and cedar, too. Not for softies.
Sauvignon blanc, Sebastiani 2001 Cohen Vineyard ($15). Yes, sauv blanc can be special and this Russian River plot is prized by a few lucky winemakers. Sebastiani's is straw-colored but richly flavored, not grassy or pure grapefruit, but a full-bodied white with exciting texture and light grapes and berries in the mouth, with a fine finish. Lush lesson in sauvignon blanc and terroir.
Wines reviewed June 2003:
Pinot grigio, Pepperwood Grove, 2002 ($4 to $6). Our favorite Italian with California ripeness, it has a lively nose, more pineapples than grapefruit in the taste, a silky texture and a clean finish. Makes yard work worthwhile.
Chardonnay, Smoking Loon, 2000 ($8 to $10). No oak or vanilla, but the apples and peaches are still creamy. It drinks smoothly with a pleasant finish. Friends-friendly chardonnay.
Cabernet sauvignon, Smoking Loon, 2001 ($8 to $10). It has a modest bouquet of pepper, smoke and cherry with stronger berry-cherry tastes and a little spice; there's also a lush texture and smooth mouth-feel all the way. Fire up the grill.
