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Cork & Bottle

Petite sirah, Bogle Winery, 2002

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published October 6, 2004

Despite the name, this is not a petite wine, nor is it a syrah or a shiraz.

This is a grand grape with a growing cult. Bogle's version is a big, inky purple and jammy with berries, plums and peppers and luscious with vanilla. It will please the rest of your senses with a flowery, woodsy bouquet and rich, easy texture.

The Sacramento vineyard does it right. Petite sirah is probably kin to a lesser Rhone grape and became an abused workhorse in California vineyards in the 20th century, but in 1976 Bogle became one of its pioneer champions.

While the big-production winery wins praise down the line for its other affordable varietals, commitment to petite sirah gives it spice and character. Bogle even makes a petite sirah port and a meritage with petite, zinfandel and mourverdre.

So even though it's not exactly cool weather yet, make friends with this one now and you'll drink it all winter. If you have some left, it will age handsomely. Bogle's petite sirah is great with steaks on the grill, lamb or any hearty pasta.

Price: $10 or less, available at wine shops, liquor stores and some supermarkets.

[Last modified October 5, 2004, 09:00:17]

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