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Glass act

CHRIS SHERMAN
Published October 20, 2004

The art and science of matching glasses to wines was perfected by Bohemian glassmaker Claus Riedel, who died this year at 79. Since 1958, Riedel designed hundreds of glasses for specific wine and all-purpose uses, manipulating the size, bowl, mouth and lip so the best part of each wine reached the right part of the tongue and delivered the best aromas to the nose.

Of course, the crystal always delighted the eye, even empty. These five are from the Vinum series of 24 shapes. They are sold in wine shops and cookware stores and cost $15 to $25 each.

Port

Smaller bowl de-emphasizes high alcohol and promotes savoring rich taste.

Bordeaux

Bowl brings aromas together, smoothes tannins. Good for cabernet sauvignon, merlot, Rioja.

Burgundy

Big mouth minimizes alcohol; big bowl collects aromas. Good for pinot noir, Beaujolais, nebbiolo.

Chablis

Smaller bowl and mouth balance acidity, enhance texture. Good for most whites.

Champagne

The flute's narrow shape concentrates delicate aroma, minimizes evaporation and shows off bubbles.

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