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A moment with Mimi Sheraton ...

Mimi Sheraton, who was a certified interior decorator before she began her journalism career, has written about food for 50 years.

CHRIS SHERMAN
Published October 27, 2004

Mimi Sheraton, the pioneering food critic, dishes out opinions faster than a short-order cook.

Now in her 70s, Sheraton was her characteristic tell-it-like-is self during an interview before the Association of Food Journalists in Puerto Rico this month.

Sheraton, who was actually a certified interior decorator before she began her writing career, has written about food and, especially, New York restaurants, for 50 years in the Village Voice , New York Times , Vanity Fair and Food and Wine . Her newest book is Eating My Words: An Appetite for Life (William Morrow, $23.95).

What's on her plate today?

-- "Appearance is a much bigger motivator than health for diet and exercise."

-- "Fried eggs are great comfort food; so is linguine and clam sauce."

-- "China has the greatest cuisine in the world, the most ingenious and diverse. I think they could make tables and airplanes taste good."

-- "My mother always took the side of the restaurant owner. "This woman has a family, works hard to build something and then you come in."'

-- On noise level in restaurants: "Some are deliberately ear shattering. Some people think they are having a good time when it's too noisy."

-- "There is a new American service, egalitarian, not intrusive, sane and reasonable, not demeaning. I like them (waiters) to go away."

-- On the New York Times ' decision to name Rome bureau chief Frank Bruni as its restaurant critic: "I don't understand why he did it. I would have given up the food beat to be the Rome bureau chief. It's more diverse, more exciting and more important."

-- "Food is 80, 85 percent of a restaurant for me. I do want a restaurant to be clean, well-lit and pleasant. Then leave me alone."

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