We went by the soccer stadium where the Taliban held executions of people for such severe crimes as say, women not fully covering their faces. It is interesting how things are now. Some women still wear the full burka that covers them from the top of their head to their feet. Most wear a scarf over the top of their head.

Attended a meeting with the ambassador's rep here from USAID. Hot topic is "capacity planning" which is government-speak for training the Afghans to take over management roles now done by Americans. They want it completed by 12/31/05. Good luck - after what these people have been thru it will take decades.

Still hot and dry.

Salaam...

Day 8
Quiet day - kept to my accounting project. At the end of the day the central bank's armored truck was in the driveway. It is a panel van that looks to be about 30 years old. Boxes and boxes of cash were being unloaded. This is a cash economy and the US government pays for the services it buys with dollars in cash. So there is a huge amount of cash coming in from the branches. Let me hear from you - without the Internet I would be lost out here.

Day 9
This morning participated in the first ever Afghan Central Bank Investment Committee meeting.  Afterward, worked on my accounting project.  Have learned that progress here is measured in small steps.  Where we might take a week to accomplish something, it takes a month here.  A large part is the lack of trained people in Afghanistan.  Tomorrow (Wednesday) is the Afghan Independence Day so the central bank is closed.  Also, Friday is their day of rest.  They have a tradition where when a day falls between two holidays they take that day off too.  So, I'll be at the guest house for 3 straight days.  Then, back to the bank on Saturday.

Day 10
Ten days already - feels like a year ... just kidding. Today was an off day ... he bank was closed ... every year they celebrate the day they kicked the British out of Afghanistan in 1919 or so ... and Friday is their holy day so they decided to close the bank on Thursday also ... total of 3 days ... spent my day at the guest house working on my general ledger project ... Sharon Hill - you'll love this.  I was reviewing their journal entries for the past 5 months and found out that few, if any, balance and that there were a lot of one-sided entries (you accountants out there will know what I am talking about). 

Met another interesting character yesterday.  Visited the Bank of Kabul, a commercial bank here in town.  The President is a tough guy - his claim to fame is that when the Russians were here they tried to take his bank from him so he gunned down 3 of the Russian mafia.  During our conversation I told him my background was accounting - his face lit up and he told me that he desperately needed a CFO and would pay top dollar and would I consider working for him (Don't worry, Becky, I said no).

Day 11
Spent the day at the guest house again, working on my project.  Tomorrow myself and one of the other guys here are going to the US base here, Camp Kabul.  They have some gym equipment there and on Friday the Army flies in steak and lobster for the troops.  As a USAID worker I can join in.  Wonder what the Marines up at Camp Kandahar are eating?  Probably beans and franks.  I guess that is why we Marines are tougher than the Army.

Kite flying is a popular activity among the little kids here.  I asked about it and was told that, under the Taliban and al Qaeda, kite flying was considered against Islamic law.  What kind of perverted mind determines that kite flying is a religious offense?  No more - the kids are back to being kids around here.  All have big smiles on their faces.  There are some in the streets who try and sell you things but none beg for money - too proud.

Day 12
Another day spent at the guest house. It's Friday which is their religious holy day over here back to work tomorrow on Saturday. There were several guys that spent a few days at the guest house on their way home after working down south in Kandahar for about a year. They work in the border security/customs area ... the Afghans (and the US) want to make sure that people who don't belong here can't get into the country so customs is a major part of the reconstruction effort (any politicians at home listening?). During dinner I told them that some politicians back home think we could just go grab Osama bin laden if we wanted to. That got a good laugh from them. The country is so mountainous and desolate that someone could hideout forever if they wanted. When you fly into Afghanistan all you see are mountains and mountains ... makes our Rocky Mountains look small by comparison.

Day 13
Fairly routine day ... spent my time on my accounting project. The central bank is being audited next month by an Indian accounting firm and still no ability to produce financial statements ... working hard at it ... had a briefing today from the security officer on the project. The Afghans have their national election in October and it seems they are expecting the bad guys to try and disrupt things a la Iraq. So they are considering having us wear body armor and helmets to and from work. Don't worry - I think it's an overreaction but that is what security guys get paid to do. The election process here is very unlike ours ... no bumper stickers, no campaign ads, no smear campaigns (they are new at this - they'll learn LOL).

Day 14
As you drive around Kabul you see pictures of a fierce-looking bearded man everywhere.  That is "The Great Massoud."  He was a leader of the Northern Alliance, and a few days before they attacked us on September 11th the Taliban and al Qaeda assassinated him.  They were afraid he might lead a revolt against them.  What they didn't count on was that there were 10 or 20 thousand other "Great Massoud's" ready to step up and take his place (you might recall that it was the Northern Alliance that fought with us against al Qaeda).

Also as you drive around you see satellite dishes and internet hookups everywhere.  The digital age has come here big time.  Contrasting against that is their building construction technology which is at least a hundred years behind us.  I was taking a break today and saw from a window a whole group of men on their way to the market pushing handcarts stacked with melons, against a backdrop of a huge satellite dish. 

Day 15
Much a normal day here ... getting into the routine and all. A few words about the people working on the project here ... there are about a 100 of us working in banking, finance ministry, customs and the project admin section.  A whole variety of origins ... British, Australian, Indian, Pakistani, and of course Americans. The head of the banking team is British and is a career banker ... has spent the last 15 years doing this kind of work in Russia, Kosovo, Indonesia and now Afghanistan. All are nice to work with and very qualified.

Today at the bank I saw a little man coming up the stairs with a huge air conditioner box on his back ... it was bigger than him ... he couldn't have weighed more than 125 pounds soaking wet with a rock in his pocket ... he had a big strap over the box and around his forehead to hold it on. I asked why someone didn't get a hand truck ... was told that it was his job and it had always been done this way.

Day 16
Big demonstration outside the bank today. Actually the demonstration was meant for the Presidential Palace which is next door. There is a lot of new construction underway in Kabul and it seems the locals were demonstrating against contractors bringing in Pakistani workers (outsourcing argument anyone?).  I can't imagine that the Pakistanis work for less than the Afghans.  An Afghan laborer doesn't make more than a couple of dollars a day.  The demonstration was peaceful though ... a little shouting and marching but nothing like demonstrations in the US ... guess it's because the Afghans are a very polite people by nature.

A word about the living conditions here; e.g., electricity.  The local power company doesn't have the horsepower to supply everyone with power 24/7 so they provide power to the business district during the day and to the residential areas at night.  Out guest house has a generator that kicks in whenever the city power is off but people without a generator have to do without.

Day 17
As you drive around Kabul you see an unusually large number of men with either one leg missing or both missing.  They are victims of antipersonnel mines put down by the Russians in the '80s.  It seems the Russians put mines everywhere in this country, even disguising them as toys so that kids might pick them up.  The job of removing them still goes on and there is a UN Mine Project office just down the street from my guest house.

The security people are still talking about body armor and helmets.  Most here think its an overreaction (so do I). 

Kids here in Kabul are really nice.  None of them beg for money like you see in other countries.  Instead they ask for money for a service.  They ask if they can shine your shoes, sell you some gum, sell you old Iraqi money with Saddam's face on it, etc. 

Day 18
Day 18 plus 2 days travel ... has it been 3 weeks already? Time flies when you are having fun LOL. Today was a pretty normal day ... worked in front of the computer all day ... tomorrow (Friday) is our "weekend" ... back to work on Saturday.

Going to a local restaurant tonight with a couple of the people on the project (don't worry - will be in a car with guard) ... anything to get out of the guest house for a few hours at least ... even eat some US-style food (sorry, no Mexican food though).

We do have satellite TV here so we're not cutoff from the world.  Unfortunately the channels are all European. The main news channel is from France so we get a decidedly anti-American view of things.

Day 19
Today is Friday, our day off and their holy day. Went to dinner last night at a western-style restaurant here in Kabul ... much like restaurants back home except for the armed guard, barbed wire and 15 foot concrete walls. Got up this morning and went to breakfast in a similar restaurant, then went down to Chicken Street for some shopping ... bought 3 handmade Afghan wooden covered bowls to send back home-one for Becky, one for Brandi and one for Patti. Also got Becky a handmade necklace made of lapis stones which are common over here.

In the afternoon went with several of the guys on the project to the army base, Camp Kabul.  Walk through the gates and it's like being back in the US.  Had dinner there -- on Friday its steak, lobster and shrimp.  They even have a US post office there.  The army sure knows how to live (never had this in the Marines).  Going there tomorrow to ship the bowls home.

Day 20
Driving is a real trip here (actually none of us drive, we all ride in cars with an Afghan driver).  There are two sides of the road but that is about it ... no stop signs, no traffic lights, no road signs to speak of.  Rush hour looks like a demolition derby in the making - but no one gets hit! Each driver makes his own way through the traffic (no women drivers seen yet).  It is accepted custom to cut in front of someone else ... in the US you would get the horn or a finger (or worse?).  Here it is just how people operate.  In fact, if you cut in front of someone it is looked on as being a great driving maneuver and you are respected for it.  Somehow it all works. I have yet to see an accident and none of the cars carry dents or scrapes.

 There were a few requests about my living quarters.  My room is fairly Spartan by our standards but luxurious by Afghan standards.  About 10 by 12 with a bed (single, my feet stick out over the end), a dresser and a closet.  Communal bathrooms.  We have running water and toilets.  Many of the Afghans do not have water or sewer facilities. 

Day 21
Last night there was a security alert about a possible rocket attack on the city but nothing happened. Just a minute ago there was an explosion over in the other side of the city but we don't know what it was. Don't worry I'm safe and buttoned up here in the guest house. Fairly routine day otherwise at the bank. We are launching a capital note project on September 8th - it is the equivalent of federal funds that our Federal Reserve uses ... really a big deal for this country and kind of exciting to be in on the ground floor of something like this.

Day 22
Well, I was getting ready to write about how routine things were getting and then last night's explosion happens.  It was about 3 miles away from us but big enough that we heard it and it shook the windows here.  They hit the DyneCorp office.  They provide security for all the high-ranking Afghan leaders and are training the Afghan police to take over that responsibility.  They locked up down here in the guest house until about noon today and then told us to go back to work.  We now have a 6 PM curfew every night.  Not that I ever went out anyway.

The Afghans are taking it in stride.  They have been through a lot worse.  There were several streets barricaded today which made traffic worse but otherwise things are back to "normal."

The Presidential elections are in early October which is the reason for the attack.  The bad guys want to force a delay in the elections.  Over 80% of the people here have registered to vote and they seem excited about the opportunity to choose who rules the country.  Their first election ever.  Just makes what we are trying to accomplish here seem ever more right.

Day 24
A quiet day here in Kabul given the events of the past few days. Security has been tightened all around and we now have blast film on our guest house windows. Spent the day at the bank on the project which got considerably more difficult when I learned that each branch keeps its own books, on paper no less - all 67 branches around the country (that will make all my accounting buddies out there feel real good).  

 It almost rained today!  Would have the been the first rain in over 2 months but at the last minute the wind changed direction and blew the clouds back over the mountains.  It is so dry and dusty here that foreigners get what is called the "Kabul Cough."  That's when your lungs get congested from breathing the air here.  I'm trying to avoid it.

Interesting sounds around the city.  Every night at about this time the local mosque sends out its call to prayer - music over loudspeakers calling the faithful to prayer.  At work most of the Afghan employees take a break to do their afternoon prayers - right there in the office. 

Day 25
A quiet day ... until about 3 PM that is, when the European security force that patrols Kabul caught a man with a car bomb (before it could go off).  Traffic in and around the city was tangled; Thursday is the day before their holy day and many Afghans take off from work early this day each week.  Anyhow, they got him before any damage could be done.

 Some comments about a cultural practice here that seems odd to westerners.  You often see two Afghan men holding hands in public (no Brooks, they aren't gay, it's just a custom over here).  At the same time, PDA between men and women (that's public displays of affection for you non-Marines out there) is strictly prohibited.  Also, when we come to work each morning, we are searched.  The women go to a small building where they are searched in private by another woman.   No men are allowed to see them being searched.

Met with the people from the Afghanistan National Bank this week on a matter involving funds transfers.  During the conversation it came up that photo ID's are no good over here to establish identity with so many women still wearing head to toe burkas that cover their face completely.  So the bankers over here have to come with another system of identification.

Day 26
Friday ... our day off. Day 26 started nicely with the weather and temperature going into the high 70's.  It has been an uncertain week with one explosion and two bombs defused before they went off.  The Afghans take it in stride.  They have been through some much tumult that I think nothing can upset them.  If this happened back in St. Pete think of what the reaction might be.  

We went to a local guest house for breakfast; this house is reportedly is where bin Laden had one of his wives living during his "stay" here.  Anyhow, here is our breakfast group:

We then went down to Chicken Street for some brief shopping but not spending too much time out because of the security situation.  And, yes, there is a Chicken Street:

Bought my girls back home some authentic Afghan bracelets and then back to the guest house for the afternoon.  At about 5 PM we went to Camp Kabul to have dinner with the troops.  They are so young.  Was I that young once, during my service?  Morale seems good and the troops are all armed to the teeth.  Can't blame them.  One big difference from my military time is the women in uniform.  They are all armed too.

 Tomorrow back to work.  My goal this coming week is to get their accounting system up and running.  Really bare bones, basic work but that is what they need right now.  Then I have 3 weeks to teach my Afghan counterpart how to do this before I go back home.

Day 27
Saturday - just another work day over here. Day started and ended quietly ... no explosions, no bomb scares, nothing.  Was difficult getting around the city with a lot of the streets blocked off.  Traffic was congested as it was - now worse with fewer streets open.

Still working on my project.  Maybe a few words on the central bank I am working at.  It is the Afghan equivalent of our Federal Reserve but with a different role (to-date).  Our Fed influences interest rates, clears check and wire transfers, tries to manage monetary policy.  Over here there are no ATMs, no checks, no wire transfers.  If you want to move money (cash) from one place to another you can carry it with you which is dangerous or you can do it through the central bank which has 67 branches all over the country.  They are open to the public which is different from our Fed.  Over time the central bank will transition to a more Fed-like role but for now it the only way to move money around.

We are trying to build the bank to something that can handle a larger role but the task is huge given how badly the bank was allowed to deteriorate to under the Taliban.

Thought you might like to see a picture of the mosque on our street.

Day 28
Sunday ... just another work day in this part of the world ... and a quiet one-no explosions, no bomb scares. They did have some trouble down in Kandahar near the Pakistani border but none here. Hope everyone back in Florida is safe and sound from the hurricane. Looks like we may get a 3 day holiday this week on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday (I'll work from the guest house). Wednesday is a holiday honoring The Great Massoud. You may recall from an earlier journal that a Northern Alliance leader named Massoud was assassinated a few days before September 11th 2001 because the bad guys thought he might lead a revolt if they attacked the US. Turns out they were right only there were a few thousand other "Massouds" who took his place ... along with our Special Forces guys. They have an interesting practice over here ... if a holiday falls two days off from Friday they just declare all 3 days a holiday.

Big event for us at the Central Bank in two weeks.  We are auctioning capital notes to the private banks here.  Sort of the Afghan equivalent of federal funds sold.  The economy here is booming, plenty of new construction going on and plenty of money flowing into the economy (also I hear it is because the poppy crop is in).  The private banks have a lot of liquidity and not much they can do with all the money coming in because Afghan currency has little value in the money markets.  So they will send it to us and we'll pay them interest. It's a start toward the Central Bank controlling monetary policy here.

Day 29
Even the French news channel has had Hurricane Frances as a lead item.  Hope everyone back home is safe and sound.  Once again it was a quiet day in Kabul.  They are keeping our movements restricted because of reports that a group of bad guys has entered the city to plant IED's along the roadsides.  So far the intelligence warnings we receive have been right on the mark.  So I'm at the guest house, safe and sound.  Back to work tomorrow, then for 3 days the bank is closed.  I'll be working though, from the guest house.

Kabul is really a contrast.  There is a "river" that runs through the middle of town (no water in it) that separates the "poor" side of town from everything else.  The other side of the river is mostly rubble; people make houses out of old shipping containers.  Walls are pockmarked with bullet holes from the wars that have gone on here.  At the same time there is a lot of new construction going on with some houses being built that would sell for 7 figures back home.  Most of the labor is still physical and you see a lot of road building going on via shovel.  It gives the feeling that this country could really take off if we could finally erase the bad guys from the scene.

It is almost Bukhasee (spelling?) season here.  That is a "game" they play on horseback with a headless goat.  The object is to ride with the goat over your opponent's goal line.  I hear it is pretty rough and anything goes.  The Afghans are reported to be excellent horsemen.  If a game is held I'll go see it.

Day 30
Frances and now Ivan ... is there no rest for us Floridians?  I hope everyone is safe back there.  As for here, another quiet day in Kabul.  Plenty of security warnings though.  We have been placed on a 10 PM curfew (I'm in bed by 10 anyhow) and have been told that there are 25 bad guys that have infiltrated the city to place IED's around (how do they know this?).  We have 3 days where we'll be at the guest house with the bank closed in honor of The Great Massoud.  Got my computer, got the data files, what more do I need to keep busy.  Without the internet I would be stir crazy by now.

The disparity between incomes in the US and here are so large as to be unbelievable.  The director of accounting at the Central Bank (the CFO) makes $245 per month and he is one of the better paid people.  A laborer might make $1 or $2 per day.  People here depend heavily on relatives and others outside Afghanistan sending money home.  We want them to stop growing poppies but that is the richest cash crop they have.  There will have to be a lot of economic assistance to this country to get it back on its feet.  Shows you what 30 straight years of war can do to a place.  The people are survivors though and they have the ability to prosper if given a chance.

PS - what's happening in the Peterson case?  The foreign news channels say scarcely a word about it.

Day 31
Spent most of the day at the guest house working. Bank is closed and they have advised all foreigners to stay inside - there are several public events today to honor the Great Massoud and it is expected that the bad guys will try and disrupt them.  We are getting security bulletins by the hour so I am inside.

A dust storm hit Kabul late today - we could use even a little of the rain Florida is getting right now. 

Day 32
Well, not much to report today.  In checking my email this morning I found a security alert in my email that an IED had been found (and defused) out near a grocery/pharmacy store that is used by the troops and foreigners.  So, spent the day indoors working on my project.  Another day off tomorrow and then back to the bank on Saturday.

Stay safe from the storm back there.  Let's hope Ivan goes away from us. 

Day 33
Here's hoping that Ivan turns away from us.  The internet map of the storm looks threatening.  Please stay safe back there.

Friday and the last day of our "3 day weekend."  Had been quiet for the last few days - until last night.  About 9:30 PM or so there was a loud explosion followed by 3-4 more every few minutes.  One came from one direction, then another from the opposite direction.  None really close though; but close enough to startle everyone.  It seems the bad guys fired 5 rockets into Kabul.  A couple came close to the British Embassy which is about 1/2 mile away.

The bad guys periodically fire a rocket into the city but last night the firing was sustained.  I heard that an Afghan mother and her child were injured but no one killed.  These rockets are not guided and land randomly.  They restricted us to the guest house all day today so I stayed in my room and worked on my project.

Am working on 4 different things right now.  As an introduction, in Afghanistan this is year 1383, not 2004.  They use a Farsi calendar where the year starts sometime every March.  So I am working on getting us ready for an audit of year 1382 which is going to be conducted by an Indian accounting firm.  Needless to say, the records are no where near ready.  I am also working on getting the bank's 1383 records up to date.  Third, I have been asked to provide accounting support for the launch of a capital note issue scheduled for September 19th.  Lastly, they have asked me to implement an accounts payable system here at the bank.  Until now, disbursements have been made by department by cash with the obvious possibility for fraud.  That will change - soon.

Day 33
Got back to the house late ... was working on a presentation for tomorrow on revamping the accounting system. That's how I spent my day so not much to report. Thought you might like to see a picture of me with the guys in accounting plus our security guard and the man who takes care of facilities here. As you can see, those of us with mustaches are in good company in this part of the world.

 Really nice young guys, very industrious and hard working......most speak fluent English plus their own language, Dari.

Day 34
A quiet day here.  We received a security alert yesterday describing a group that was planning to set off an explosion in the vicinity of Chicken Street which is the major shopping block in Kabul.  Apparently, their target was an organization called "Save the Children" which is sponsoring a program to help young Afghan girls obtain an education.  Sounds like a pretty benevolent organization but that is something the Taliban/al Queda are against.  Reinforces why we must fight them wherever they are.

Anyhow, they caught them this morning right where they thought they would be and they were armed with explosives.  Although it is not reported, I have to believe that the citizens here are cooperating with the military.

Continued with my project.  A little behind and only a few weeks to go.  It takes longer to get something done here - in part due to the language barrier but also due to the state of affairs here in Kabul.  I talked with several of the other people on this project who also did this same thing in Kosovo, Tajikistan and Indonesia and they tell me the Afghans are starting at a much lower point than any of the other countries they have been in.  I can believe it - don't misunderstand - the people here are capable - but they need to advance 25 years in a just a few years' time.  The wars here really devastated this place.

A funny story.  The Afghans are very much trying to learn English - the language of business.  A week ago I passed by an older man who was very intently reading an English language pamphlet.  He stopped me and asked me to help him with a word - it was "excite."  I ended up reading to him for a few minutes.  But they often use English words in a way they don't intend.  I was walking down the hallway in the bank and came upon a sign that read "Execution Department."  They meant "Operations Department."  By the end of the day the sign was changed.  There is a business office right near here that has a beautiful new sign that reads "Real State Office." They meant to say "Estate."    

I'm trying to learn one Dari word a day (Dari is the language primarily spoken here).  Not sure of spelling but "takashure" means thank you and "hass" means horse.  

Day 35
Not much to report. Spent the day at the bank working then came back, went to Camp Kabul to work out and eat some American style food.  I'll take my camera to work with me tomorrow and shoot some pictures of life in Kabul as I ride in.

Day 36
As I look out my window I see rain clouds ... will it finally rain here?  I know you Floridians have had more than your share - here it is just the opposite - no rain since before I arrived.

I promised to send along a few pictures.  But, someone taking pictures makes people here a little antsy ... thinking that the bad guys would take pics when they are scoping out someplace to hit.  Anyhow, here is the view from the bank onto the main square in Kabul:

Everyone I talk to expects the bad guys to pull something else before the election.  Speaking of the election, it resembles nothing like the one back home.  Candidates are not out shaking hands and kissing babies because of the security situation and there are no debates here.  Most of the campaigning goes on behind the barricades at each house.  Everyone expects Karzai to win.

For you banker-types I thought I would include this picture.  It is the central bank's armored van for transporting currency:

Not sure when it was made - 1940's?.  I guess the guards with Ak-47s make up for the poor condition of the truck.

Day 38
Thursday--our end of the week here.....tomorrow is our day off.  The Blue House residents went out to dinner tonight at the "Elbow Room."  Much like a restaurant anywhere - except for the razor wire and armed guards.  There are 5 of us in Blue House now; an Australian, a Latvian and us 3 Americans.

A little excitement in Kabul today.  Karzai was off somewhere making an appearance and the bad guys tried to assassinate him.  The bank is adjacent to the Presidential Palace and we saw the military bringing him back via helicopter.  Our government is taking no chances with him - they cannot afford to lose him.  He gets the best bodyguards - Gurkas mostly, really tough fighters.  Also, the US military goes where ever he goes.

Made some progress on my project - even got some financial statements produced - a first for the bank.  Will take it easy tomorrow and then back to work.  My return date is fast approaching and there is a lot left to do.

Day 39
Not much to report today. Friday is our day off and I spent it in front of my computer working on a training outline for the 2 Afghan employees I will be training in general ledger processing.  Back to work tomorrow - Saturday.  Some fun expected on Sunday - one of the Indonesian consultants is having an Indonesian supper at his guest house - a nice break from the normal routine.

By the way, here is a picture of me with the security guards at our guest house, standing in front of the house:

Day 40
A quiet and uneventful day here in Kabul ... just another work day. Received several replies from the group with concerns over security here (maybe you weren't too impressed with our security guards?).

I don't feel at all threatened over here although I have restricted my movements.  Afghanistan is not Iraq and the Afghanis are not Arabs.  What I mean by that is there is a cultural leaning towards being hospitable to foreigners here.  Perhaps it is because the Afghans have beaten back every foreign power that tried to occupy this country so they may not fear foreigners.  Whatever, there is a definite politeness and friendliness among the people here.  And there is also an understanding that the US is here to help.  I think after 20+ years of war the people are ready to go forward and backward as the Taliban would have taken them.

Day 41
Another quiet day in Kabul ... although I just received an alert over the internet to be on the lookout for a green Corolla which is supposed to be made into a car bomb. The security alerts here have been right on the mark, so far.

Have a bad case of cabin fever. The walls here seem to be closing in ... so going to the base for dinner (don't worry - I will be with the security director who is armed).  

Remember the picture I sent last week of me and the guards?  It has become the hot item with them - all of them want a copy ... printed one in black and white and they were ecstatic.

Just what is going on with the Bucs?  I'll be home in less than 3 weeks - Gruden has that amount of time to shape things up LOL.

Day 42
Big day at the central bank today.  We launched our capital note program, sort of the equivalent of the US Fed selling federal funds.  Placed $100 million in Afghan of the notes with local banks - sounds like a big amount but $1 US equals 45 Afghani.  Anyhow, a big step forward in putting their banking system back on its feet.

Went to an Indonesian dinner tonight at one of the other guest houses.  One of the consultants is from Indonesia and he treated us to an authentic Indonesian meal.  Very, very good.  A bit spicy and wet my appetite for Carmelita's Mexican restaurant when I get home.

Otherwise quiet here (calm before the storm?).  So says out security guys.

Day 43
Well, it rained today in Kabul.  Not much by Florida standards but rain nonetheless.  And got cooler - temp down in the 70's.  Still housebound other than back and forth to work.  The security alerts are getting disturbing.  Report today about an al Queda meeting in Pakistan where they pledged to increase their efforts to stop the elections here in October.  Also, offering a bounty for Americans.  So, I am playing it safe.

A little more about the bank and its operations.  As you know, the Russians/Soviets were here for 7-8 years.  The bank still reflects some of the Soviet style of operation - throw a lot of people at function - break a function into many pieces and have many people do the work of one.  The opportunity for streamlining here is significant.  I have put through several changes to their accounting system, but not without resistance.  The "we have always done it this way" syndrome.  But, we've had that reaction back home also.

When we go to Camp Kabul there are about 10-15 young Afghan kids who hang out at the gate wanting to sell us something, maybe have us give them something (but begging is rare here).  One little girl is as "cute as a button" as they say and has been asking for a soccer ball.  So, I'm going to get one at the local bazaar and we'll give it to her on Friday when we go to the camp for dinner.

Day 45
Thursday ... and tomorrow is Friday, our day off.  I would like to see a little more of the city with my assignment coming to an end but security cautions against it.  Reportedly, al Queda has put a bounty out on foreigners helping the Afghan government.  Also, they have put a bounty on any Afghans working with foreigners so I don't want to put our driver at risk.  Whether that is true or not remains to be seen but I think the bad guys over here understand two things: (1) they have lost any chance at a military victory as long as the US stays here and; (2) if this election goes as planned it will be a major step forward for the Afghan government.  Today, it was reported that President Karzai's main opponent in the election will withdraw his name from the running in return for a position in Karzai's government. Also, the various provincial governors (e.g., warlords) have been promised a seat on some sort of advisory council.

Maybe not a real democratic process if only one true candidate remains but given the situation even a straw poll on Karzai will be a victory.

Day 46
46 already? The time does go fast over here ... probably because there is so much to do at the bank-no idle time. I leave on October 6 and have 10 days left to train my two Afghan proteges and leave them a procedure manual to use in my absence.

Friday ... our day off ... spent it at the house working on the project. I have become permanently attached to my laptop LOL Kabul was quiet today - this is the holy day in this part of the world.

We went to the base for dinner tonight and took along a soccer ball we bought at the local bazaar (actually the Afghans at the bank bought it for me - foreigners at the bazaar get charged double what a local would pay).  They thought I was going to play soccer on my day off - until I told them what it was for.  We gave it to "our little girl" at the entrance to the base.  You should have seen her eyes light up!  She is so cute - even under about a half inch of dirt.

Day 47
ANOTHER quiet day in Kabul ... roadblocks all over the city; security alerts have said that there are foreigners (read Arabs, Chechens) in the city trying to set off IEDs. 

So I'm playing it careful - back and forth to work and nothing else.  An observation about Afghanistan - refugees that left the country in the 80's from the Soviet invasion and in the 90's from civil war and the Taliban are coming back home in droves.  It presents an interesting problem for the bank.  Afghans who fled the country had the opportunity for an education and business experience while those that stayed behind did not.  Now, with the economy over here growing fast there are many professional jobs available but few other than people who left the country qualified for them.  I met a man yesterday who left the country in the 80's and made a new life for himself and his family in California.  He is an experienced businessman and wanted to come back here and help out.  So the bank has hired him for a one year tour as the internal auditor.  Hopefully, he'll be able to pass on his skills to the locals during that time.

P.S.  9 working days until I leave - hope they have a place set for me at Carmelita's Mexican restaurant.  I don't think there is an enchilada within 5,000 miles of here LOL.

Day 48
.......and.....aAnother quiet day in Kabul (so far).  Woke up this morning to the sound of helicopters overhead - the military is apparently stepping up its patrols of the city - two Apache helicopters circling the city during morning and evening rush hours.  Low and slow - couldn't have been more than a hundred feet up - missiles very visible on the pontoons.

Continued work on my project and even got another month of financials out-we're almost caught up.  Good thing too.......an Indian auditing firm is due in here in three weeks.

Hope everyone back there is safe from the hurricane.  I get a lot of questions from folks over here who think it is too dangerous to live in Florida (not safe like Kabul?).  Anyhow, hope the worst of things passes us by.

Day 49
I hope everyone back home is safe and sound, dry and not harmed by Jeanne. Although today was quiet here it was not uneventful.  The security forces caught a truck filled with what they say was 1 ton of explosives.  The security people have a good "hit rate" going - they must have informants telling them of the bad guys because they have intercepted 3 such incidents in the last week.

We had a team meeting this evening that lasted beyond the 6:30 dinner time at the house so we went around the corner to an Iranian restaurant frequented by many of the politicians in Kabul.  There were enough security guards out front to staff a small army.

My assignment is coming to a quick close.  I am hurrying to teach two young Afghans in the accounting department how to run the general ledger system I have setup.  They are very capable - we got lucky with these two. 

I had several emails from others here on the project informing me of the 0-3 Bucs record.  Maybe the hurricanes will go away and their fortunes will improve.

Day 50
There was a small explosion in the city yesterday, enough to rattle some windows, but nothing big.  A topic of conversation is "when's is going to happen again."  People are asking that about the election situation and the plans to disrupt.  Have seen some internet articles about non-governmental organizations leaving Afghanistan with the election coming but that seems overblown, based on my conversations with other consultants in town.

I was talking with one of the Afghan bankers today and he told me that over 7% of the male population here is missing one or both legs.  A result of the Soviet occupation, still being cleaned up.  In fact, when you fly into Kabul airport there are large signs near the runway warning about mines around the airfield.

For the poverty here, there are surprisingly few beggars about.  There is a legless man I pass by everyday on the way back from work who sits smack in the middle of a busy street asking for handouts.  How he avoids being hit by the traffic is a mystery.  I'll make a donation before I leave.

Tomorrow is Wednesday - one week until I leave for home.

Day 51
Well, quiet again.  The consulting firm put out directions for us leading up to the election which are basically don't go anywhere and if you do be in by 8 PM.  They are also hiring additional armed guards to accompany us around.

Starting tomorrow, I have only 5 days to go before I leave so I am trying to quickly wrap up things here.  Writing a procedure manual for my two Afghan proteges to use for the accounting system.

Day 52
When I told people back home I was coming over here, the almost universal reaction was "why" (some of my Republic Bank friends were more blunt - their reaction was "you're crazy").  Anyhow, I had been thinking about this from the time I knew that Republic would be sold to another bank.  I had initially inquired about a posting in Iraq.  That situation did not materialize but there was this posting that was supposed to happen earlier in the summer.  Since this is a government-funded project the funding did not come through until two months ago.  I had almost given up on the idea when the phone call came.

Anyhow, I had 3 reasons for coming over here.  First, I wanted to contribute something to what we are doing in this part of the world, no matter how tiny.  The troops over here are SPECTACULAR, their morale is very high and this volunteer military of ours is way, way better to the part volunteer, part conscript version I was in.  While I'm too old to do that, I did want to do "something" for the effort.  Second, I wanted to learn about the people over here and try and understand why Islam and the US are such at odds.  Why did the Taliban take hold here?  Why did it take 9/11 and our military to get rid of a political faction that thinks stoning women to death for showing their faces in public is the way to live?  Lastly, I wanted to find out for myself if democracy in this part of the world is realistic or just a pipe dream.  Is this effort worth it or are we just fighting an unwinnable fight?

Some comments on reason #1.  I'm hopefully old enough and wise enough that I understand that one person doesn't change the world in 60 days.  But I did at least want to leave here with some contribution.  When I met with the project manager on day one I reviewed the scope of work with him and asked if that was what he REALLY needed.  He told me that what he wanted was some sort of accounting system, even one that was only 60-80% correct.  So, I think I have delivered that.  And I am training two young Afghans to continue it in my absence.  The USAID has just approved a $10 million project for the central bank, including a new accounting system among other things.  But it won't be in for 14-18 months.  So what am leaving is an interim solution.  It will permit the bank to produce the financial statements that the International Monetary fund wants.  If they need IMF support having current financials will be a requirement.

And they have asked me to come back and do this or more or less of a full time basis during 2005.  But, we'll see.

Some more on reasons #2 and #3 to follow.  Thanks for listening.  Salaam.  Go Bucs

Day 53
Well, things over here are drawing to a close.  Today is Friday - our "weekend."  Spent the day at the guest house, with instructions from security not to go anywhere foreigners congregate.

Yesterday I wrote you about the reasons I wanted to come over here.  I did receive a few replies back, including "I still think you are crazy" or words to that effect.  Point taken.  Anyhow, a second reason for coming here was to understand for myself why we (the West, the US, etc.) are so at odds with the Islamic world and why a phenomenon like the Taliban could take hold here.  As a caveat, I only have been here about 2 months and I have only seen Kabul, and only a little of that due to security concerns.  Based on what I have seen, here is what I think.

First, the Afghan people are not what one would expect.  They have been through a horrendous twenty years with the Soviet occupation, civil war and the Taliban.  I would expect them to be distrustful of foreigners (I would be).  Despite that, I have found them to be courteous and hospitable to foreigners, especially Americans, and quite a resilient people.  They have been through a period where they were moving backwards while most of the rest of the world was moving forwards.  You could almost term them "mild-mannered," this about a people who defeated the Soviet army in the 80's and who have defeated every foreign country that has tried to occupy Afghanistan.  So why would the Taliban gain control over people like this?

My take goes to their religion, Islam.  At home, religion comes on Sunday and some of us only go to church on special occasions like Easter and Xmas.  Our religious beliefs are kept tidily hidden.

Over here, Islam is the driving force in these people's lives.  It is not unusual at the bank for the employees to take what I call a "prayer break" twice a day.  They take off their shoes, unroll a prayer rug, get on their knees, face Mecca and pray for ten, fifteen minutes.  You even see people out in public, like at a park, praying.  Imagine the reaction at your typical American business office if the employees begin holding prayer services during work hours.  A lawsuit, maybe?

I think then that someone or some group using Islam as their justification for doing things like the Taliban did would be hard to resist.  In our society, religious leaders hold some moral power but not the absolute power like a religious leader over here.

Could the Taliban come back?  Yes, they could if we (the US) decide not to keep at our reconstruction effort.  This country needs a long, long time, say 10-15 years of help, to get back on its feet.  The chief economist on the project here has a term he uses called "donor fatigue" meaning the point at which donors get tired of giving and allow their efforts to slide.  If we do that then we might just be facing another Taliban/al Queda over here sometime in the future.  I hope the US keeps at this.

Are the Afghan people worth our money, troops?  In my opinion, absolutely yes.

By the way, the people over here like to grow roses and even though the climate is arid the soil is rich when watered.  Here is an example of an Afghan rose:

Day 54
Saturday, another work day in Afghanistan ... only a few more days to go.  In the last journal I was writing about the reasons for wanting to come over here and I had written about #'s 1 and 2.  #3 was to see for myself if democracy in this part of the world was realistic or just a pipedream.

The short answer is:  NOBODY knows yet.  And no one probably will for another few years or so.  But that doesn't mean this has been a failure.  Just the opposite.  Afghanistan has its election scheduled for October 9th and by all accounts there is only one real candidate-President Karzai.  There is not a lot of discussion among the Afghans I have contact with about voting.  I think they don't really know what it means to vote yet.  This is first time these people have had an opportunity to vote for anything or anyone except with their feet or a rifle, which is a major step forward.  I am sure there will be naysaysers on October 10th telling the world why this election was flawed, blah, blah, blah but keep in mind where this country was just 3 short years ago.

Afghanistan is still a country without a national identity among the people.  Here in Kabul you feel cutoff from the rest of the world because of the mountains and I am sure other provinces in this mountainous country have the same feeling of isolation.  I don't believe democracy will be fully realized until the Afghans think of themselves as a "whole" rather than a member of a local tribe or province.  It will take some time-------but  remember that it took the US a 100 years and a bloody civil war until we began thinking of ourselves as a "United States" and not a collection of semi-independent states.

One other comment.  The Brits and the Canadians are out in the boonies with our guys doing the fighting.  We also owe a big THANKS (or GRAZIE?) for the help we are getting over here from the Italians.  Their troops are out on the streets patrolling, very visible and very open to attack.  They have also committed a large amount of civilian help in the country.  You also see Germans and Norwegians on the streets.  But not French.  They say they are here but you could have fooled me.  Oh well.

Day 55
Sunday ... another working day in the Islamic world ... this is the last journal.  I'll be leaving early Wednesday morning for Dubai in the United Arab Emirates, stay there overnight, then get on a plane at 1:15AM Friday morning to fly from Dubai to Paris to Atlanta to Tampa.  Should be home by early evening Friday.

Woke up early this morning to the sound of two A-10 jets low over the city.  Flying a tight circle over the same place in the city.  Found out later that the security forces had captured what they say are 25 Taliban/al Queda members/sympathizers.  For the rest of the day the sky was filled with Apache helicopters patrolling the city and the security forces (mostly Italian and German) were out on the streets.  Comforting sounds, the helicopter engines all afternoon.

My work at the bank is about 99% done - just some follow-up work with my two Afghan proteges tomorrow and a half day on Tuesday.

Thanks for listening during the last two months.  Email is our only real contact with the outside world and I appreciate the messages from you.

Oh, and this.........if you see one of our guys in uniform back home walk up and say "thanks" in a big way.  The troops over here are terrific and they are very professional and very competent.  They are the best young people we have to offer.  When I go to the base I see the men and women in uniform at dinner, weapons at their side, ready to put their lives on the line for us. There is no paycheck that can compensate them for their service.  I was walking up to the line for dinner last night and a young Marine on his way to guard duty passed me and said "hello, sir."  I replied "Semper Fi".  He was thrilled that I was a fellow Marine and we talked for about 5 minutes about what I was doing over here and what his duty over here was like.  Very, very high morale.  There are thousands more like him over here.

All for now.  Salaam.  Go Bucs.