Classy fare, without the formality
The chef of Anna Maria's celebrated Beach Bistro transfers his high-end cuisine to a more relaxed setting in Palmetto.
By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published December 9, 2004
PALMETTO - On the back wall of the dining room at Mangrove Grill is a mural memorializing the low-rent peace and quiet of backwater Cracker Florida: a swampy place of cypress and black water where birds and frame houses both walk on stilts.
The customary menu in the pictured place would be fried fish and hush puppies at $6 prices with a cold one in a can.
It's the only bit of the old mangrove world you'll see here, so enjoy it while you can. This stretch of river is now Riviera Dunes, which despite the French allusion is mocking Tuscan, massive villas with birdcaged back yards and taupe and tangerine tile.
The grill itself is a two-story manse of Disney Mediterranean style with a westward view of the sun setting over 200 grand yachts and powerboats. As this is a protected harborage, diners cannot see the Manatee River, the skyline of Bradenton on the other side or the ongoing construction on this side.
It's a typical Florida scene, except that this is in Palmetto, rarely considered an upscale address until now. Nor has it been a dining destination except for enchiladas at Alvarez or El Molcajete.
Enter Sean Murphy, the beloved chef who brought European grace, fine bouillabaisse and Zagat-busting fame to the Beach Bistro on Anna Maria Island. A year ago, he was lured to a 175-seat spot to anchor the marina at Riviera Dunes and give prospective buyers a view of their dream houses and boats (and a place to close deals).
Nonetheless, the fact that Murphy is now cooking for the New Palmetto (and still on Anna Maria) is a positive benefit to putting on the style. It's a chance for Murphy to try a relaxed version of his high-end foie gras, duckling and blue crab dining.
The resulting menu mixes classy fare like lobster and creamed spinach a la escargot straight from the Bistro, all edible without reservations or high heels. There's also burgers, ribs and pizza, plus original fare of Cajun, Asian and pure Murphyean whim. Don't expect beach bar fare or old Florida-fried delights: mahi-mahi comes with the firm disclaimer, "No damn hush puppies." Color me heartbroken and surprised; I don't expect the cornmeal-challenged to brag.
New Orleans is rightly honored with gumbo, one of the truest versions on our stretch of the gulf: sausage, chicken, fish and okra in broth the color of used motor oil (which is the perfect hue), spiked with thyme, garlic and file. Well-made stock is a Bistro trademark that shows in all of Mangrove's sauces.
However, I was disappointed that an entree of Gulf Coast Paella used the gumbo stock and the same "dirty rice" (which I like with more chicken liver flavor, probably a minority opinion). Hearty stuff, but reinvented paella needs more flair.
The best seafood was a salmon sandwich with a sweet maple glaze and punchy lemon shrimp on a skewer, very fresh and cooked right. An entree of salmon, a favorite from Murphy's Canadian heritage, was also done to my liking, medium rare, which is rare in local kitchens. Asparagus, however, was a limp substitute for the great ration of fresh vegetables for which the Bistro is admired.
Among all-American bar food, Mangrove serves classics and originals, winners and losers. The ribs are perfectly juicy, with a rich mango glaze that is spiced with cumin and more meaty than fruity. When the fries are good (and, I suspect, double cooked), they are crisper than state fair spuds or original frites. The best slaw is lively, punched up with curry and vinegar.
Lobster-crawfish cakes sound hip, but mine were dry and dull, no improvement on crab cakes or simpler fish cakes. My burger, dolled up with goat cheese and dubbed the Big Boat Beastro, would scare no one. To make that boast, it ought to be husky and flavor-charred, fresh from the flames - not this little guy. Likewise, the lemon-grilled chicken wings, which were almost as big as a turkey's, were cooked and then briefly grilled, far too briefly to win over fried fans.
Potato planks are another Mangrove exclusive that could be the next big thing in bar food - more accurately, long, thin, oval slices of a baking potato, quickly fried, briefly grilled and tossed with a mild seasoned salt, served with a great lime chili dip. This is another clever two-step process, but for now the "chip" is limp, floppy and slippery. Again, hotter fire under the grill, please.
At dessert, Mangrove serves some pure Bistro pleasure, like the praline ice cream or the intense chocolate terrine, dense as a brick and so moist and rich you can overindulge by smell.
A smart wine list, with choices from modest Red Truck meritage to showoff Opus One, and generally sharp service (host stations obstruct as much traffic as they move) are Beach Bistro features that have moved happily to the second location.
Watching one of our most successful restaurateurs expand and evolve is intriguing and could raise the quality of waterfront dining, as well as its price.
The chance to eat fine gumbo and chocolate pate in shorts and sandals is a treat and also a cause for a chorus of "Carry me back to old Palmetto."
- Chris Sherman dines anonymously and unannounced. The Times pays for all expenses. A restaurant's advertising has nothing to do with selection for a review or the assessment of its quality. He can be reached at 727 893-8585 or sherman@sptimes.com
Mangrove Grill102 Riviera Dunes Way, Palmetto
Phone: (941) 723-2556
Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and noon to 10 p.m. Friday through Sunday. (Bar opens at 4:30 p.m. for happy hour.)
Reservations: Large parties only
Details: Credit cards accepted; smoking outside only; full bar.
Features: Outside seating, water view, live music.
Prices: $7.95 to $31.95.