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Dine

For valentines, the food of love

Romance comes in many flavors, so one food critic plays Cupid to help lovers take aim at a meal that's perfect for their celebration.

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published February 10, 2005

	[Times photo: Ron Thompson]
	Try the grilled tuna with wasabi or rack of lamb at the Crystal River Wine & Cheese Co.
	[Times photo: Douglas R. Clifford]
	For a Valentine’s dessert, try something like this bunet from Pelagia Trattoria in Tampa.

One of the toughest questions I get is, "Where can we go for a romantic meal on Valentine's Day?"

Answering is a little easier this year. With Valentine's Day on Monday (2/14), diners have an entire weekend to find some place to share a meal and sweet nothings.

Since many restaurants are closed on Mondays, there's all the more reason to spread the romance over the three weekend nights. The timing should mean better luck with reservations and babysitters.

I've arranged my suggestions in four groups. Whatever your druthers, I'm trying to help.

Just don't say I didn't warn you Valentine's Day is just around the corner. At least buy a card.

Boulevard Bistro

Good bread, great soups and friendly service make for a great local spot. Boulevard goes beyond with good wine deals and chefs whose diner grill knocks out spicy steaks, smart sides and sauces. More? BB now has breakfast pizza and buttermilk biscuits and gravy and Benedicts with fresh Hollandaise. Affordable food like this is about friends as much as trends. Full bar. 8595 Seminole Blvd., Seminole; (727) 399-1800. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Crazy Conch Cafe

The condo crowd can feel warm and fuzzy over short ribs, gumbo and squash souffle and still feel stylish at this hideaway. It's Michael Peel's neighborly home for home cooking with a water view. The menu mixes Southern and coastal dishes and no-carb blowouts like a $30 T-bone on greens and Parmesan. Wines are just as clever. 1110 Pinellas Bayway S, Tierra Verde; (727) 865-0633. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Crystal River Wine & Cheese Co.

You can't beat selection or price when you're dining in a wine shop, a treat that makes most of the bay area envy Crystal River diners. Owners Jennifer and Rodney Carr aim for affordability and clever wines to match light modern food. It's worth standing in line to raise a toast. Beer, wine. 734 U.S. 19 S, Crystal River; (352) 795-0008. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Gelateria del Duomo Milano

Italy's most delicious ice cream-making tradition has been imported to a mall, as if shopping wasn't guilty pleasure enough. They make it luscious and intense as if the berries or nuts were crushed while you wait. Even a tastelet on a tiny neon spoon is a wow. You must try a couple, say pistachio and canteloupe, before yielding to cioccolata. Bay Street at International Plaza, 2223 N West Shore Blvd, Tampa; 813 877-7771 or www.gelateriadelduomo.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Island Way Grill

A T-bone sweetened with Korean barbecue is the equal of the restaurant's boat-fresh fish, raw bar and sushi. Best dishes have clever Asian accents, like baby bok choy in sake and fish crusted in wasabi peas or crushed fortune cookies. Smart management misses few tricks: early birds for the neighbors, oyster shooters, boatload brunch on Sunday, world-class bar stock, brilliant wine selection, all-weather patio seating with a marina view, or indoor dining with Duncan McClellan magic glass. 20 Island Way, Clearwater Beach; 727 461-6617 or www.islandwaygrill.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Le Bouchon

You want fine soup, fresh pate, great wine discoveries, a French accent and no airfare? It would be grand to have such an all-day menu at a bistro on every corner, but we'll have to make do with one fine serving. Lucky Belleair Bluffs is the one place you can try it all. Don't miss the soup, fresh pate or rilletes; for a bigger meal, have duck and bon marche wine. 796 N Indian Rocks Road, Belleair Bluffs; (727) 585-9777. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Pappas' Grillmarks

The transition from the longtime Largo landmark to new wave cuisine has taken a couple of years, but early birds still can get meatloaf, Greek salads and, at lunch, spanakopita, pastry filled with good ol' cheesy spinach. For the dinner crowd, though, blue crab cakes come with a tint of blue Curacao for an edge of late-night attitude. Style has gone from blue plate to cobalt, and modern presentation can turn even that meatloaf into Tall Food -- or occasion for an eye-poking herb sprig. Full bar. 607 N Clearwater-Largo Road, Largo; 727 584-6235. www.grillmarks.com

Sangria's Spanish Tapas Bar & Restaurant

Hit Sangria's for a lively crowd and lovely puffs of perfect cod fritters washed down with pitchers of the namesake in three flavors, including sparkling. 315 S Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 258-0393. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Spain Restaurant

Stop in at Spain for exceptional grilled, salted prawns and a stunning taste of stylish modernismo: clean lines, crisp colors, Barcelona cool. Full bar. 513 Tampa St., Tampa; (813) 223-2831. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

A unique sushi bar from the folks who bring us Ciccio & Tony's Italian restaurant. In a fit of Atkins revisionism, the gang threw out the nori seaweed and instead fashion sushi into rolls of rice paper or over bowls of rice. That edge is balanced by Sunset Strip hip decor in pastels and equally retro desserts of ice cream cookie sandwiches. 1015 S Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 514-4426.

Big City Tavern

This is the grandest space in Ybor, the top floor of the 1912 Centro Espanol. In it, Big City serves straightforward modern American classics. Ask for a pork chop, and you get a thick one, juicy pink as ordered. Pasta? Linguine with clam sauce or whole wheat penne with porcini mushrooms. Or you can have a big burger with hand-cut fries, tuna salad with basil and capers or scrambled eggs and caviar. Centro Ybor, 1600 East Eighth Ave., Ybor City; (813) 247-3000.

The Globe

The Globe styles itself a coffee lounge to make sure you know that it's not as hyper as a coffee bar, more decadent and decidedly uncorporate. Much of the limited menu comes direct from the recipe box of a late 20th century childhood: peanut butter and jelly, baked ziti thick as a brick, eggplant Parmesan served on a hamburger bun. Then there's the counter of endless, shameless pastries and cakes dripping with chocolate and caramel, Rice Krispies treats, s'mores and other goodies. 532 First Ave. N, St. Petersburg; 727 898-5282. www.globecoffeelounge.com

Mel's Hot Dogs

The big daddy of hot dog places in the area. Mel's does only dogs and sausagelike relations. Service is assembly line, but the atmosphere puts the accent on the hot dog. Beer, wine. No credit cards. 4136 E Busch Blvd., Tampa; (813) 985-8000.

Steak 'n Shake

Pull up to the spaces, eat indoors or use the drive-up window. You also can stare at impromptu car shows of tricked-out ponies and not-so-little GTOs. Great for strong coffee and late-night breakfasts or a short-order steak, but best bites are classic drive-in fare. Have a burger or chili with a milkshake, and don't forget the cheese fries. 8101 Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. St. N, St. Petersburg, 727 568-9169; 1450 E Fowler Ave., Tampa, (813) 971-9700. Other locations in St. Petersburg, Clearwater, Oldsmar, Largo, Tampa, Brandon, Port Richey, Spring Hill. www.steaknshake.com

Whistle Stop

Fried green tomatoes, plain or fancied up with cilantro and crumbles of goat cheese, are just the start here. There's a tuna Caesar salad and wraps of portobello, turkey, catfish and veggies, plus crackling calamari salad. Don't forget burgers, hot dogs, catfish, fried dill pickles and Working Cow ice cream, too, at this 53-year-old roadside attraction. 915 Main St., Safety Harbor; 727 726-1956. www.whistlestopgrill.com

Sonic

This chain invented the drive-up burger stand in Oklahoma 50 years ago to deliver food as "fast as the speed of sound." Although its burgers are thin and unexciting, this is one of the few chains to carry hot dogs, corn dogs and BLTs. And it has tater tots! The restaurant is famous for its limeades punched up with cherry or strawberry and for the roller-skating servers who come to the car. Ten locations around Tampa Bay. www.sonicdrivein.com

T.C. Choy's Asian Bistro

Lunch or breakfast on the glorious dumplings and other tiny treats of the biggest dim sum parade around the bay. For dinner, start with jumbo oysters or clams and move on to claypots, scallops or no-waiting Peking duck. Thank a hardworking crew in a beautiful kitchen and owners with the best connections possible: Oceanic Oriental Supermarket. 301 S Howard Ave., Tampa; (813) 251-1191. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Floyd's

This bit of Vegas style in the midst of the rather dreary Seminole casino offers smart cooking, flash presentation, lively spicing, and respect for vegetables and pastry. It shows in every course in a way that matches some of our best restaurants and tops many. The short, modern menu has indulgences for high-rollers at dinner and burgers for punters at lunch. Full bar. 5223 N Orient Road, Tampa; (813) 627-7757.

Cafe Alma

Might as well call the place something friendly like Alma. How else to fit all the earthy pleasures of southern and eastern Europe and an aromatic slice of the Middle East in one name? But the kitchen, with Tullie Carlton and Scott Stone taking over for Christian Briner, packs lamb meatballs, preserved lemons, walnuts, pancetta, duck couscous and more into the most savory restaurant in downtown St. Pete. Full bar. 260 First Ave S, St. Petersburg; 727 502-5002 or www.cafealma.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Byblos Cafe

You can make a Levantine sampler of snacks mezze here out of the favorites of the Middle East from grilled lamb, kebabs, raw beef and wheat to fresh yogurt, cheese and hummus. They get no better presentation anywhere. Stay late and finish with intoxicating bellydancing or a dreamy draw on the water pipe (hookah). Beer, wine. 2832 S MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 805-7977 or www.bybloscafe.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Kiku Japanese Fine Dining

Sushi masters like Daniel Chong are and should be rare. Finding him among Clearwater Beach's T-shirts and tacky thongs is Zen justice. Enter his small garden, surrender to the cool grace of humility and all pleasure will be revealed: Hokkaido scallops, monkfish, ocean trout, baby flounder and bluefin tuna. Ask for a bagel roll or fried grouper and you will miss the best fish of your life. Say "omakase" instead, trusting fish and sake to Chong's knife and palate. You should be so lucky once. Beer, wine and sake. 483 Mandalay Ave., Suite 214, Clearwater Beach; (727) 461-2633. Chris Sherman's best restaurant of 2004.

Cafe Ponte

My choice for best restaurant of 2003 continues as the finest European cooking here and the best food Ulmerton Road never dreamed of. Chef Chris Ponte samples a world of flavors, yet his Paris training blends them into smooth, rich versions of updated classics. Creamy bisques, beet salad or glistening quail are great beginnings, and it only gets better with lamb, duck and diver scallops and the most beautiful of companions, from butternut squash to sweet peas and microgreens. Wolfgang Puck comes here when he's taping at Home Shopping Network; you should too. Full bar. 13505 Icot Blvd. facing Ulmerton Road, Clearwater; (727) 538-5768 or www.cafeponte.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Vizcaya

Modern Spanish food in Tampa is still rich, but the likes of pheasant with mushrooms and brandy cream or merluza in seafood bisque is far from the steam table. Felix Piedra resets our table with chorizo, clementines, clams and a love of Spanish wine, while garnishing the place with Miro colors. Oxtails in sherry are all you need to know about tapas. Beer, wine. 10905 N Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 968-7400. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Sidebern's

The kid sister of Bern's, the legendary beefeater, trotted the globe and came home with a backpack full of spices and throughly modern ideas. Under Jeannie Pierola, a big talented staff lets loose on a great selection of fish and game with exotic mushrooms, Asian spices, Mediterranean lemons and chickpeas, great cheeses and clever wines. If it's too much in a bento box, dim sum tower or a single plate, order anything with short ribs or Okinawan sweet potatoes. Full bar. 2208 W Morrison Ave., Tampa; 813 258-2233 or www.bernssteakhouse.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Vincenzo

Tuscany's wine doesn't come in straw baskets, and warm neighborhood Italian isn't just on red checked tablecloths anymore. Vincenzo's has a pizza oven, busy bar and homey hospitality, but the dining room menu runs from traditional bolognese, eggplant and punchy puttanesca to the heights gilded with porcinis, artichokes and truffle oil. Full bar. 2454 N McMullen-Booth Road, Clearwater; 727 726-5558 or www.eatatvincenzos.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Pelagia Trattoria

Pelagia gives a fresh taste of the Riviera and the Amalfi Coast even if the sea outside is asphalt. Inside, it's eye-popping shapes and color and bold flavors from chef Fabrizio Schenardi. Ancient foods like Manchego cheese and honeycomb, crunchy fried olives, quail with lentil salad, mussels and merguez and lamb with figs are refreshingly new to us. Full bar. Renaissance Tampa Hotel, 4200 Jim Walter Blvd., Tampa; (813) 313-3235. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Spartaco Trattoria

Skinny place, small tables, plain settings, yet it's a wait to get a table. Food is not Spartan, just classically simple. Try bitter greens, fine Parmesan, meltingly thin tenderloin in olive oil, big grilled prawns or pastas of Emilia Romagna made by the owner's mom. Beer,wine. 3215 S MacDill Ave., Suite B, Tampa; (813) 832-9327. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Bernini

A modern restaurant both comfy and hip, Bernini's flash is at ease in the old bank building, the wood-burning oven well-seasoned, osso buco and garlic pizza old standards, and robust flavors a given. They show in charred pork, seared scallops, rich risotto and crisp brocolini and asparagus, rare tastes of modernity -- with old-school service. Full bar. 1702 E Seventh Ave., Tampa; (813) 248-0099. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Kelly's For Just About Anything

Just rocking good. Wild, whimsy and savvy palates churn out three smart meals a day that you can't call squares: banana bran pancakes, Roast Beef Ridiculous clubs and veal chops with mushrooms and blueberries. Plus sharp wine list, silly 'tinis and white chocolate pecan pie. Outdoors or in. Full bar. 319 Main St., Dunedin; 727 736-5284 or www.kellyschicaboom.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

The Blue Heron

This comfy spot still pioneers New Pinellas cuisine. Whether the dishes borrow from Southeast Asia, Jamaica or the American Southwest, original or classic sauces are perfect, as good as the fanciest entree on the plate. Too many choices? Go for the lamb. Full bar. 3285 Tampa Road, Palm Harbor; (727) 789-5176.

Redwoods St. Petersburg's pioneer uptown downtown eatery is back on track with reinventive American food. Prime sirloin with truffle mash, escolar with mustard greens and sage-squash ravioli and bacon are pretty and clever, yet still close to the land and woods. Full bar. 247 Central Ave., St Petersburg; (727) 896-5118. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Ashley Street Grille

Come to this quiet room with a view of river and minarets for the kind of secrets discreet hotels keep: some of the best modern cuisine in town, all subtlety, no flash. The menu sounds simple, but the chefs get the best seafood, heirloom vegetables and fine cheeses and then design ways for them to shine, including good service and bargain wines. Baking is first-rate, from peasant bread to pastry. Radisson Riverwalk Hotel, 200 N Ashley Drive, Tampa; (813) 223-2222.

Maritana Grille

You can dine like the swells did in the '20s and '30s, but with modern luxuries and style, no expense spared. The pantry is stocked with foie gras, game and wild mushrooms and Chef Eric Neri puts them through all the modern paces from butter poached lobster to white bean ragout and banana pepper ravioli. For seats at the top of the food chain, reserve the chef's table. P.S. Always order the souffle. Full bar. Don CeSar Beach Resort and Spa, 3400 Gulf Blvd., St. Pete Beach; (727) 360-1881.

Bobby's Bistro & Wine Bar

Hip spinoff of the landmark Heilman's Beachcomber serves contemporary food and a world-class wine list in cozy style. Steaks and chops, seafood, raclette potatoes, plus gourmet pizzas and burgers taste richly of an Americanized brasserie. Full bar. 447 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater; (727) 446-9463.

Black Pearl

This intimate room feels like a snug fit of gray flannel. The china is pastel depression glass, but the food is fresh and modern. Count on personal service. And don't miss the black ice cream. 315 Main St., Dunedin; 727 734-3463. www.theblackpearlofdunedin.com

Pacific Wave

Fish and Maui onions are Hawaiian, lumpia are Philippine, and we know where lobster bisque and sushi come from. The combination of all those elements, however, is pure Peter Tanhnavong: tiger shrimp, proscuitto and kaffir lime sauce; boursin stuffed chicken with shiitakes; and rack of lamb with pineapple and roasted garlic. Don't skip dessert. The kitchen makes its own ice cream and knows macadamia, Kona coffee and chocolate lava cake. 211 Second St. S, St Petersburg; 727 822-5235 or www.pacificwaveonline.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Sukothai Thai food gets sophisticated presentation, pretty on the plate and surrounded by handsome woodwork and exotic fabrics. The best eating is chicken and duck. Try pad Thai noodles or the sweet and sour whole fish. Beer, wine. 8201-A N Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; (813) 933-7990.

Saffron's

Edythe James, the pioneer Jamaican chef who taught Pinellas to love and even cook island food, uses Caribbean spice to revive the funky old Prado nightclub on Boca Ciega Bay. Jerk, curries, island peppers and sweet spices liven up vegetables, seafood, steaks and even teas. Plus, there's lively music in the cook-up on weekends. Full bar. 1700 Park St. N, St. Petersburg; 727 345-6400. www.saffronscuisine.com

Massimo's

Veteran Armani's chef and local gourmet champ Massimo Patano now takes high-end eclectic swings at his own intimate place. He sears scallops with fennel, pairs lobster cakes with apricots, makes frito misto with rice flour and sauces sweetbreads with sweet peas. An original blend of Italian, French and Asian with brilliant sauces and lots of luxe. Beer, wine. 31876 U.S. 19 N, Palm Harbor; (727) 784-1881. One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

The prime rib buffet keeps tourists happy at the Sheraton Sand Key resort, but three trips through the line can't satisfy me as much as one small appetizer from John Harris' brilliant crew. Consider a perfectly seared three-bite scallop on a bed of pulled short-rib beef. Think ropa vieja glazed with Coca-Cola. They also cook with quinoa and Silver Queen corn, leeks and lentils, wild mushrooms and house marmalade. Vacations rarely taste this exquisite. Full bar. Sheraton Sand Key Resort, 1160 Gulf Blvd., Clearwater Beach; (727) 595-161 1 . One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Roy's Credit Outback for bringing Roy Yamaguchi, one of the smartest celebrity chefs, to the chain dance and letting him call a high-class tune. In the Tampa kitchen, Rand Packer oversees the most elegant, creative Asian around the bay. First-grade fish, Gulf and Pacific, show off in luscious French sauces and exotic infusions. Or try Roy's filet mignon satay or patented sushi -- starting with the tuna-hamachi rolls. Full bar. 4342 W Boy Scout Blvd., Tampa; 813 873-7697, www.roysrestaurant.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

St. Bart's Island House

Gordon Davis tropicalized the area's oldest French restaurant in 2002, refreshing the menu with more seafood, adding lively spices and installing the area's best list of rum, rhum and ron, dark, aged like cognac and silly enough for a parasol. Sauces still have classical polish; service is big-house grand. Full bar. 1502 S Howard Ave., Tampa; 813 251-0367 or www.stbartsislandhouse.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

Alfano's

Classically prepared Italian food, superb (and affordable) wine list and elegant building make you feel at home, not outclassed. From tomato soup and pasta with simple sauces to fine veal and chicken with rosemary, cooking is fresh and service is warm. Full bar. 1702 Clearwater-Largo Road, Clearwater; (727) 584-2125.

Caffe Paradiso

You may dine next to big shots, but fine dining Italian-style in this tiny hideaway is casual and comfortable. Veal is at its best here; salmon-stuffed ravioli is exquisite; linguine with clam sauce is perfect. All are set off by crisp salads, fresh vegetables and first-rate service. Beer, wine. 4205 S MacDill Ave., Tampa; (813) 835-6622.

The Pepper Mill

Omnivorous menu includes gourmet classics and contemporary sauces; some of the best comes from the grill, especially a namesake steak, and other grilled meat and fish. Rich desserts, affordable wines and smooth service. Full bar. 1575 S Fort Harrison Ave., Clearwater; 727 449-2988. www.ilovepeppermill.com

Starship Dining Yacht

A floating dinner here is surprisingly tasteful and contemporary, not a stuff-your-face buffet: Chicken and beef are best choices; salads crisp, vegetables and desserts stylish, service first-class. Appetizers, drinks, parking add up to a special-occasion price, but lively band on top deck and waterside views are free. Full bar. 603 Channelside Drive, Tampa; 813 223-7999. www.starshipdining.com

Spoto's the Steak Joint

Red meat is the stock in trade here. Spoto's just buys all choice or better Angus beef, and the owner does the careful trimming. But check out the venison, buffalo and elk, too. Salads, veggies and sides have less panache. Service it top notch. Full bar. 4871 Park St. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 545-9481 and 1280 Main St., Dunedin; (727) 734-0008.

Clearwater Beach Hotel Dining Room

Sure, it's white tablecloth dining, expensive and a bit fussy, but it's done just right. The entrees are familiar and unintimidating, but all are prepared with a modern eye for quality ingredients and a subtle use of world flavors. Bask in vanishing Old Florida hotel feel and heed "Ding" Darling's still timely scoldings. Full bar. 500 Mandalay Ave., Clearwater Beach; toll-free 1-800-292-2295. www.clearwaterbeachhotel.com

Chateau France

Sheer high price -- appetizers average $11 and entrees start at $29 not counting Beluga or chateaubriand -- will impress showoffs. But that money does buy something friendly and familiar, not nouvelle or intimidating, just the old-school Continental that has meant big-bucks dining for generations: red meat, lobster and chocolate souffles served with fuss and a slight French accent. 136 Fourth Ave. NE, St. Petersburg; 727 894-7163. www.chateaufrancecuisine.com

Julian's at the Heritage

St. Petersburg's big spenders get their own top-dollar steakhouse, where booths and bills are the same size as the $30 steaks: big and juicy. Veal is a worthy alternative here. Best sides are crab cakes, scallops and creamed spinach. Professional service. Full bar. 256 Second St. N, St. Petersburg; (727) 823-6382.

Bon Appetit

Tables with bay views and traditional indulgences such as rack of lamb, sweetbreads, escargot and Dover sole. The menu has been updated with pastas, grilled fish, fresh herbs and half-orders, but there are rich sauces and strudels as well. Brunch on Sundays, plus dock facilities. 148 Marina Plaza, Dunedin; 727 733-2151. www.bonappetit-restaurant.com

Tio Pepe

Clearwater dines in grand Spanish style as it has for years. Cuban favorites plus steaks, chops and an expansive wine cellar and hospitality. Hearty food and fellowship make it a see-and-be scene. 2930 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd., Clearwater; (727) 799-3082.

Au Rendezvous

It serves a long list of crepes and croques, plus soup, sandwiches and salads, and a wide range of fresh baked goods. Breads include baguettes, boules, lusty olive loaves and fragrant rosemary. Prix fixe French dinners on weekends. 200 E Madison St., Tampa; (813) 221-4748.

La Cachette

Continental cooking survives on the beach with charm in this intimate restaurant, where the Jacksons still cook with cognac and brioche; it's like having dinner with your aunt the gourmet. Make reservations, bring cash and your own wine; $37 buys three courses of goodies such as duck confit, lamb chops and pork encroute, rare treats of lamb kidneys and sweetbreads, or heirloom butter pie from Canada. 321 Gulf Blvd., Indian Rocks Beach; (727) 596-5439.

The Lobster Pot

This is top-dollar shellfish of the old school. The menu stars the king of crustaceans plain and fancy but covers a wide range, all served in a cozy, low-key setting popular with beach old-timers. Full bar. 17814 Gulf Blvd., Redington Shores; 727 391-8592. www.lobsterpotrestaurant.com.

Cafe Largo

Don't be surprised to find polished French food in an office complex in Largo. For 15 years, it has been the place for souffles, sweetbreads, duck, pate, lamb or a taste of Provence, the sunny side of France. 12551 Indian Rocks Road, Largo; (727) 596-6282.

Cafe de France

Leave the beach sun outside. Behind the white-lace curtains, you'll find la belle France and long-beloved specialties. Look for frog legs, coquille St. Jacques, great bearnaise sauce, pork chops in Calvados and chevre salad. Beer, wine. 15225 Gulf Blvd., Madeira Beach; (727) 392-8627.

Zante Cafeneo

Eating in this antique-y shop is not quaint but quirky, a jumble of treasures where lovin' spoonfuls spill in all directions. Brad and Elizabeth Sullivan serve an only-in-America fusion of local Greek, Italian, New Orleans, hearty breakfasts and big deal dinners. All garnished with a brood of youngsters. 13 N Safford Ave., Tarpon Springs; 727 934-5558 or www.zantecafe.com One of Chris Sherman's best restaurants of 2004.

[Last modified February 9, 2005, 17:38:01]