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Wine briefs

By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published February 23, 2005

	Martin Ray Angeline chardonnay, Russian River

ON THE SHELF

A sip of new books

Michael Jackson's Complete Guide to Single Malt Scotch by Michael Jackson (Dorling Kindersley, $27.50)

The beverage world has its own superstar Michael Jackson, and he's always in public or print. Best known as the Beer Hunter for his well-traveled palate, the Britain-based Jackson is also well-versed in cocktails and spirits, especially whiskeys, malt's noblest achievement.

In this new edition of a classic, he can and does taste rocks, peat, heather, water, snow, salt spray and seaweed in 1,000 single malts, highland, lowland and island.

Jackson's highest scores go to rare labels aged 30 years or more, so some may be only a fantasy for most American Scotch drinkers. But a grand fantasy - and cheaper.

Wine for Every Day and Every Occasion by Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher (William Morrow, $24.95)

The wine-loving couple who write a popular weekly column in the Wall Street Journal, subtitled this book "Red, White and Bubbly to Celebrate the Joy of Living." A fine idea.

They take the reader all through the year with friendly, tempting ideas for dinners, parties and tastings, formal and informal, plus tips on visiting wineries, shopping and forming wine clubs.

P.S. Open That Bottle Night, the holiday the authors invented for uncorking those bottles saved for a special occasion that never comes, is Saturday..

The Italian Wine Guide (Touring Club of Italy, $24.95)

* Lidia's boy Joe (and Mario Batali's pal) knows his way though the chaos of Italian wine better than most Americans. He and Lynch also bring a practical sensitivity to price and availability. It's a dense, alphabetic encyclopedia, better for reference than shopping. Best features are appendices on vintages (1997 through 2001 are first class) and handy lists such as "20 Great Whites Under $20."

* The fact that every region in Italy grows grapes and makes wine can be intimidating, but the Touring Club of Italy's Italian Wine Guide makes it instead delightfully inviting. With wine-savvy text and postcard-pretty pictures, this charmer from Italy's AAA maps out an infinite wine geography where every village from France and Austria to the shores of Sicily is worth a drink if not a stop.

The TCI makes Italian wine fun and throughly understandable even if you don't go. But you will; this will persuade you to narrow your itinerary, stay long and go often.

Martin Ray Angeline chardonnay, Russian River

The late Martin Ray was one of the early giants of Californian winemaking, along with David Bruce, carefully selecting vineyards and making polished, intense wines from grapes grown on hillsides.

His legacy was revived in 1990 by Courtney Benham and now consists of several lines. Angeline is the newest and most affordable.

At any price this chardonnay would be a treat. The fruit from chilly Russian River is ripe and crisp. It is tropical in the nose, rich and creamy in the taste with citrusy structure.

Ideal with fettuccine Alfredo - or without. Availability: $12 to $16 at better wine merchants.

[Last modified February 22, 2005, 14:44:06]