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Gardening

Prune now, enjoy fruit of labor later

By MARRY COLLISTER
Published February 25, 2005

This is the time - through the end of February - to plant and prune many of our deciduous fruiting plants. If the trees are already blooming, as my peach trees are, you will have to wait until fall or early winter to prune.

It's best to develop a plan before dragging out your pruning equipment. Deciduous fruiting plants are not as forgiving as our ornamental shrubs or trees if the pruning is done improperly. Remember, prune to train young trees, shape mature trees and rejuvenate older plants.

Training should be done when you plant young trees. I was a bit surprised at the variety of trees a local garden center had this month. Peach, cherry and apple trees were available. The goal of training is to develop a strong framework, which will maximize production and make for a strong tree.

Apple, pear and persimmon trees are pruned with a modified central leader. This consists of a central trunk with five to seven side branches spaced evenly along the trunk. Keep limbs with wide crotch angles between 45 and 60 degrees.

This is a multiyear project. With a young tree you may have to train the crotches by wedging a piece of wood between the trunk and branch, or tying down a branch with string or twine. Tie the string to a stake in the ground and gently pull on the branch to increase the crotch angle. Make sure you remove these training devices before they harm the tree.

Peach, nectarine and plum trees are pruned to an open-vase system. There is no central leader; branches grow out from the center. Each winter, prune any diseased, dead or rubbing branches.

Pruning branches that are growing upright or toward the middle will keep the inside of the tree open. Remove any sprouts coming from the roots or below the major scaffold (side) branches. Pruning may be required once fruit is set in order to reduce fruit load, or fruit can be clipped off with hand shears. Fruit should be left about 6 inches apart.

Pear trees tend to produce upright growth and the trees are very susceptible to fire blight, which can kill a tree. Excessive pruning promotes vigorous regrowth and makes the tree more prone to this deadly disease. Just prune to remove dead or diseased limbs or branches that are rubbing. Pears often produce suckers, which grow straight up. These should be pruned back to the place of origin.

Blackberry plants should be pruned to the ground immediately after fruiting. New growth will develop during the summer, which will produce next year's crop. This pruning will reduce pest and disease problems.

Blueberries should be pruned one-third to one-half off the top when planted. For the next few years remove weak growth, and diseased or damaged wood. After a plant is 5 to 7 years old, cane renewal becomes important. Each year remove 25 percent of the older canes, cutting them to a strong limb or close to the ground.

Prune apple trees to control size and remove rubbing, dead or diseased limbs. Branches that are too vigorous and are competing with the main trunk as well as upright sprouts should be removed. Thin out interior growth to allow light to penetrate the tree.

Muscadine grapes are vigorous vining growers; it is best to train them to a trellis. An easy method to is space two strong poles about 12 to 15 feet apart and attach a single, strong wire about 5 or 6 feet above the ground. Plant the vine midway between the poles. Guide the vine up to the wire with a small stake or string. When the shoot reaches the wire, prune the tip and allow two side branches to form. Train one branch in each direction.

Muscadine vines should also be pruned in February, although some bleeding may occur. This is normal and will not damage the plant. All branches that are less than three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter should be left with just two or three buds per spur (short stem). Remove most of the spurs at the top of the trunk to prevent crowding and bushiness.

If you need more information on pruning fruit plants, go to the University of Florida's Web site at edis.ifas.ufl.edu and search for your specific plant.

Don't be put off by thinking deciduous plants just aren't worth the trouble. Once you pick a peach from your tree or grab a handful of fresh blueberries for your morning oatmeal, you will know they are worth the little extra work involved. This is a great time to add these ornamental and edible plants to your garden.

Mary Collister of Valrico writes about how to garden successfully in Florida's climate and offers problem-solving tips for your home garden. Mail questions to Mary Collister, Brandon Times, 426 W Brandon Blvd. Brandon, FL 33511.

[Last modified February 24, 2005, 09:35:09]