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Wine of the week
By CHRIS SHERMAN
Published May 18, 2005
Hogue Cellars Genesis cabernet sauvignon, 2001
If you hadn't realized that Washington state makes rich red wines, this could be a lesson as well as a bargain.
Genesis is the high-end specialty label of Hogue, one of Washington's biggest brands, and its 2001 pulls together grapes from choice vineyards in the Columbia and Yakima valleys. But there's another trick here in the blending: cabernet franc and merlot is what you'd expect, but that spice you can't identify is 1 percent of Lemberger, a rustic old Washington red.
The blend makes a big ripe wine that smells of fruit and cedar, and tastes of cherries sweet and sour, all with a nice smooth texture. Best to drink with patience, a few minutes in the glass or a decanter or a few years on the shelf will open it to full pleasure.
Around $15, widely available.
[Last modified May 18, 2005, 11:00:38]
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