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Fresh!

Grilled, boiled or even microwaved, corn on the cob can make your holiday cookout an all-American success.

By JANET K. KEELER
Published June 29, 2005

	[Times photo illustration: Stefanie Boyar]

A Fourth of July cookout demands corn on the cob.

Fresh, hot corn is the accompaniment of the day whether paired with grilled burgers and dogs or steak and lobster.

Lucky for us, the bins at groceries and produce stands overflow. Six ears for a dollar or so is the best bargain in town. And talk about fast food, corn can be ready in less than 10 minutes.

Piles of green-yellow husks topped with wispy silks hide the sweet kernels. Just a little heat brings out their best. Butter and salt, or maybe not, and the assault begins. Do you resemble a typewriter, going back and forth, or are you a circular eater, turning the cob round and round as you clear off kernels?

Sometimes, though, fresh corn confounds us. How long to cook? Grill, boil or microwave? Why is some sweeter than others? And, darn it, one ear always has a few brown or even missing kernels, resembling a prize fighter who's left a pearly white or two in the ring.

How, and how long, you cook corn depends on whether you like it closer to raw than mushy, or vice versa. And yes, you'll get an occasional bad ear, but give Mother Nature a break. Cook a few extra and it's all good.

If you buy corn already shucked, you can see the condition of the kernels. You'll notice that shucked corn is often dried on the ends. That's what happens when the natural protection is removed.

Fresh corn should be cooked soon after purchase, the same day if possible. Corn's sugars begin to turn to starch when picked, diminishing natural sweetness. (If only we could be at field's edge with a boiling pot of water.)

Much of the corn we buy is a supersweet hybrid, favored by growers because it has a longer shelf life. This allows it to be shipped to distant markets and still maintain quality.

To store fresh corn, wrap ears in dish or paper towels and store in the refrigerator. Do not leave in plastic bags, which trap moisture.

Three widely used methods for cooking corn each have their merits.

The quickest method is microwave. Two minutes on high, turning halfway through, and one ear is ready for eating. (Multiple ears require more time, double or triple for two or three ears.) If you've got a corn-loving kid, this is a great snack. Let the corn sit for a few minutes to avoid biting into hot spots.

The biggest decision is how to wrap the ear. It can be cooked in its husk, which is removed along with the silks before eating. (The silky threads come off easier after corn is cooked.) Or, shuck the corn, then wrap in plastic or wax paper.

The simplest method is boiling. Start with cold or boiling water. (Some detractors say leaving corn waiting for cold water to heat makes it soggy. I've not noticed the difference.) Once the water, salted or sugared if you'd like, is boiling, your corn will be ready in 5 to 7 minutes. Don't crowd the pan; use about 4 quarts of water for 8 ears.

The tastiest method is grilling. Grilled corn takes on a smoky flavor, plus direct heat carmelizes kernels, adding sweetness. However, it's easy to burn it. Wrapping it in aluminum foil solves one problem but brings another: mushy corn from trapped steam.

I adapted a method from Great American Side Dishes by the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine and was happy with the smoky sweetness that resulted.

Peel back all but the final layers of the husk. This last layer buffers the corn from the heat, preventing scorching.

Before putting the corn on the grill, run it under water to keep the husk from catching fire. Over medium-hot heat, the corn will be done in 10 to 12 minutes, turned every 2 to 21/2 minutes. The husk picks up the dark silhouettes of the kernels, a sign that it is cooked.

With this method, the silks must be removed after cooking. This may be more than you or your guests want to do. To avoid this, peel back husks, remove silks, then return husk covering before putting ears on the grill.

At the least, most people like their corn buttered and salted. I like mine natural.

I prefer to wait until the first bite to see if the corn needs adornment. I am rarely disappointed.

The sweet crunch is pure summertime enjoyment and a requirement on Independence Day.

- Janet K. Keeler can be reached at 727 893-8586 or krieta@sptimes.com

[Last modified June 28, 2005, 09:11:04]