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Peasant look goes sumptuous
Jean Paul Gaultier juxtaposes rich materials with Eastern European folkloric garb for a couture collection that includes velvet Cossack trousers.
Associated Press
Published July 9, 2005
PARIS - Jean Paul Gaultier, forever the globe-trotter, led the last day of the Paris couture shows Friday with a collection inspired by Eastern Europe. Peasant blouses, tiered skirts and Cossack trousers never looked so luxurious.
Once the prankster of French high fashion, Gaultier has become increasingly interested in the craft of couture. The colors and intricacy of Romanian folkloric costume provided just the right inspiration.
Instead of classic patchwork and cotton braid, Gaultier substituted velvets, silks, soft leathers, embroidery and beading to tell his story.
A fitted tan leather hip length jacket was worn over yellow velvet "moujik pants" or knickers. A black blouse was cut in velvet-flocked black silk and worn with a high-waisted, flared velvet skirt.
In another take on traditional gear, Gaultier transformed an officer's frock coat into a paisley embroidered redingote with a wide petticoat skirt underneath to hold its shape.
Even the embroidery was given a luxurious edge: The border on a black-silk peasant blouse was etched out in silver beads. And there was lots and lots of fur, including a mid calf flared mink skirt worn with an officer's jacket, lambskin trousers bordered in golden fox and a wedding gown made from sculpted white mink with shaggy Mongolian fur on the sleeves and hemline.
Designer Franck Sorbier started his show with a small performance by opera singers clad in costumes he designed for a production of Giuseppi Verdi's La Traviata.
The models strolled out onto the stage in ribbon lace gowns with big skirts that peeked from under floor-length capes.
From time to time there was a spark of color, like the floral chiffon cape floating over a simple black sheath dress.
When he departed from black, Sorbier's color palette went metallic. A bronze metallic lace dress had a strapless peplum bustier and a slim wrap skirt.
A gold lace jacket swung over a gold silk-satin jumpsuit. A black panne velvet coat had silver-embroidered borders and a medallion at the back.
[Last modified July 9, 2005, 01:01:15]
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