Soft landings in rocky Canada

Hikers experience Western Canada's remote areas by day and sleep in a comfortable lodge at night, thanks to helicopter transportation.

By KARI J. BODNARCHUK
Published July 10, 2005

[Photo: Kari J. Bodnarchuk

Hikers pause to take in a stunning view of North Canoe Glacier in British Columbia’s remote Cariboo Range.

	A 14-seat Bell swoops in to pick up heli-hikers on a ridge near Crystal Peak, and take them back to their remote lodge in British Columbia’s Cariboo Mountains.

It was good to know that Mike McClelland was an unflappable pilot because he was about to land his 14-seat Bell helicopter on a precarious ledge in the Canadian Rockies with a 1,000-foot drop behind him, a dramatic slope in front and a rock wall to his left, just 2 feet beyond the chopper's blades.

McClelland wore a look of deep concentration, rather than his usual ear-to-ear grin.

"I wasn't worried," he later told us. "Just wanted to get it right."

Eight of us were counting on him to get us safely into the chopper and off the ridgeline at 8,000 feet, in the middle of British Columbia's remote Cariboo Range. It was almost dinnertime, after all, and we had a French chef in the kitchen.

Paul Langevin, our hiking guide, stood on a spot he had cleared of big rocks and held a pink flag over his head, to give McClelland a visual on wind direction. Kristen Fawcett sat in the back seat of the chopper, looking down at us with a look of disbelief. "I was thinking, "We're not really going to land there!' " she later recalled.

McClelland positioned the helicopter, swooped in and landed, sort of. The back third of the chopper's landing gear dangled out over the ledge, but he held the machine steady. Langevin pulled open the door and quickly waved us into the helicopter.

Quickly, yet delicately, we all climbed into the helicopter, which hovered several inches above ground, and then swapped celebratory high-fives and hugs as the chopper lifted off and banked hard right away from the rock wall. McClelland was the hero, but we all had a lot to celebrate: We had just hiked across a glacier and 2,000 feet up a steep ridgeline toward the Crazy Horse summit, and then leapt into a hovering aircraft.

Two days earlier, we had all been strangers, exchanging polite introductions as we literally geared up for our adventure at Canadian Mountain Holiday's wilderness lodge in July.

CMH is probably best known, at least among winter crowds, for its fabulous, lodge-based heli-skiing trips around the British Columbia wilderness. Hans Gmoser, the company's founder, invented heli-skiing 40 years ago and now CMH fills its backcountry lodges each winter with adventurous skiers and snowboarders in search of the perfect powder run in a place where there is plenty of elbow room and the only lines are those that skiers leave behind them on the mountainsides.

Come summer, CMH runs heli-hiking trips from its five wilderness lodges in the Cariboo, Bugaboo, Selkirk, Purcell areas of the Rockies into some of Western Canada's most far-flung and breathtaking settings.

It would take days to access these mountains on foot, and you'd have to shoulder a good week's worth of supplies (including all camping equipment) just to reach the spots where we were beginning our heli-hikes. With CMH, it was simply a 10- to 15-minute flight aboard our aerial limo to access glaciers, mountaintops and remote alpine meadows. Here, we hiked for miles, while simply toting daypacks that held extra clothes and a few snacks and energy bars.

At the end of each day, we returned to our cozy mountain lodge, which had such amenities as down comforters on the beds, a sauna, a pool table, a climbing wall, musical instruments and a full bar, not to mention first-rate food (Claude Harvie, our French chef, received a round of applause each night at dinner). For those unable to unplug, there was high-speed Internet, available at a computer tucked away in a nook on the first floor.

Hikers arrive by helicopter and are immediately provided with gear, a warm, waterproof Helly Hansen jacket and rain pants, plus a daypack, durable water bottle, hiking pole (typically an old ski pole), and a pair of heavyweight, all-leather boots (Salomons, Garmonts and Tecnicas). I recommend bringing your own hiking boots because those at the lodge have definitely covered many miles. It's always best to have boots offering comfort and support that are broken in - and fit your feet.

The lodge can accommodate 44 guests, but only had 22 people the week I was there, ranging in age from 17 to 75. CMH divided us into three groups based on our abilities and interests. Some of us wanted to hike hard and fast and test our mettle on exposed ridges and summits (we called ourselves the "high and wild" group), while others preferred to wander through meadows of alpine flowers and stick to lower elevations (the "meadows" group).

Our days fell into a natural rhythm in no time. A wakeup bell rang at 7 a.m. (there are no clocks or alarms in the rooms), stretch class began at 7:30, breakfast was served at 8 and the first group of hikers boarded the chopper at 9.

Over the next three days, we hiked thousands of vertical feet, crossed glaciers, scrambled up rocky mountains, traversed narrow, dusty ridges, and hiked through snow and across meadows with white heather, purple asters and marmots. It was nothing our eclectic group of travelers couldn't handle.

We typically spent our mornings in one region and were airlifted to another region after lunch for a total change of scenery. During the afternoon hike on Day 2, Caroline Miller, a 75-year-old New Jersey woman who was originally from Austria, decided to stick with the "high and wild" group and scramble up 8,400-foot Crystal Peak, a climb of about 1,200 feet.

"She never gives up," said Miller's 50-year-old daughter, Beth Weaver, who was heading off to Zilmer Canyon for a gentler hike.

"It may be my last chance," said Miller as she set off, right behind 17-year-old Matthew Hoyle, an avid hiker from England and by far the strongest walker in our group.

The climb took us up a steep snow bowl and across a boulder slope with sheer drops off the back side.

Sitting on the rocky summit of Crystal Peak, Miller said, "This reminds me of Austria. It is more amazing than I ever thought it would be."

McClelland picked us up from the narrow peak, again showcasing his amazing flying skills. He has logged 16,000 flight hours in the past 43 years. The 64-year-old pilot, who had moved to Canada from New Zealand 31 years ago, used to drop firefighters at the scene of forest fires, so he has the precision of a surgeon.

The morning of our third day, McClelland dropped us off next to turquoise-colored Penny Lake, so we could make our way up to the top of a hump overlooking the immense North Canoe Glacier. We walked alongside cliffs with plunging waterfalls, saw an ice cave that had been carved out by the glacial meltwater, and scrambled up rocks that had grippy, stucco-like surfaces. Along the way, Langevin, a former Parks Canada naturalist, explained the geology of the area and gave us helpful, often humorous pointers on how to maneuver the terrain.

"You can crab' up the rock," he said, sidestepping up a steep slab of granite, "but don't cross over your feet because you might fall and that's considered bad form."

He explained how a glacier carves out the landscape, creating striations in some rocks and smoothing out others, and how it transports rocks and boulders and deposits them in unusual places.

Once we reached our outlook, he radioed McClelland and we flew down to the North Canoe Glacier, where we hiked by deep crevasses in the ice, saw moulins (holes in the ice formed when glacial meltwater flows into crevasses), and then climbed a dramatic ridge almost to the summit of Crazy Horse, where McClelland performed that spectacular, nerves-of-steel pickup.

- Kari J. Bodnarchuk is a freelance writer and photographer living in Boston.

GETTING THERE: Air Canada, United and Continental fly from Tampa/St. Petersburg to Calgary daily with one stop. Rocky Mountain Sky Shuttle toll-free 1-888-762-8754; www.rockymountainskyshuttle.com runs every one to two hours daily from Calgary International Airport to Banff and Lake Louise. Brewster (toll-free 1-877-791-5500; www.brewster.ca runs daily shuttles from Banff to Jasper along the stunning Icefields Parkway, one of the world's most scenic drives.

HELI-HIKING TRIPS: CMH runs three- to seven-night heli-hiking trips from its lodges in British Columbia from early July through mid September. Prices range from approximately $1,672 to $3,730 U.S., and include transportation from Banff, Lake Louise or Jasper to the lodges and the return trip to Calgary International Airport. The Bobbie Burns Lodge hosts a special Family Adventure trip this week from Tuesday through Friday (the Bugaboo Lodge Family Adventure from July 30-Aug. 2 is sold out but you can put your name on the waiting list), and the Bugaboo Lodge hosts a Photography Workshop, Sept. 10-14. For information, call toll-free 1-800-661-0252 or www.canadianmountainholidays.com

Tonquin Inn 100 Juniper St., Jasper; toll-free 1-800-661-1315, www.tonquininn.albertanetwork.com offers everything from rooms with kitchenettes to large family suites with fireplaces and saunas and access to outdoor hot tubs. Prices are $70 to $300.

Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, in the Jasper National Park; toll-free 1-800-441-1414 or (780 852-3301; www.fairmont.com/jasper overlooks an emerald-colored lake, blends in with the countryside and offers clear views of the Rockies. The main lodge has native decor and a warm feel; luxury log cabins and cedar chalets (with stone fireplaces) make you feel like you're in a cozy mountain home. Prices from $335.

Spruce Grove Inn 555 Banff Ave., Banff; toll-free 1-800-879-1991; www.banffvoyagerinn.com has cozy, affordable ($60 to $135) accommodations in a new lodge located within a 10-minute walk from downtown Banff. Includes access to an outdoor heated pool (open year-round).

Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel (405 Spray Ave., Banff; toll-free 1-800-441-1414). This 19th century Scottish baronial-style castle is well worth every penny. It is a spot of luxury and charm, with a down-home feel. Plan a day to explore the hotel's spa, shops, hot springs, gallery and grounds. Prices from $195 to $520.

Andy's Bistro (606 Patricia St., Jasper; (780) 852-4559), is a European-style bistro that serves fish, lamb, veal, steak, bison, ostrich, pasta, fondue and vegetarian dishes. Lunch prices from $4 to $18, dinners are $13 to $22.

L&W Restaurant (71 Patricia St., Jasper; (780) 852-4114) is known for its Gus Burger, but also makes great homemade pasta, Italian and Greek dishes, seafood and steaks. Prices are $7 to $18.50.

Cilantro Mountain Cafe, (Buffalo Mountain Lodge, Tunnel Mountain Road, Banff; (403) 760-4488), a local favorite, featuring homemade pasta, Southwestern dishes and creative pizzas. (Ask if the bison pizza is on the menu.). Prices are $11 to $22.

Saltlik (221 Bear St., Banff; (403) 762-2467), a meat-lover's favorite, though vegetarians with a light appetite will survive here. Amazing steaks - try the beef tenderloin with bernaise sauce and family-style side dishes, including crab legs, scalloped potatoes, skillet-fired mushrooms and seasonal vegetables. Entres are about $14.50 to $23; side dishes $3 to $10.

[Last modified July 8, 2005, 16:06:17]