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Caterer pushing soul food to posh

By ERNEST HOOPER
Published August 3, 2005

As he works his catering business each day, a question gnaws inside Drew Ware.

As he delivers his trays of smothered pork chops, collard greens and three-cheese macaroni to various events in Tampa, he wonders: Why doesn't Tampa have the kind of upscale, soul food restaurant you find in other major markets?

"It's sad that we don't have anything like that, but it's our fault," Ware said. "It's not that we can't do it, we're just not doing it. How can we get it done? It's going to take individuals who have a vision."

Ware, 44, believes he's that person. While you will find nearly every kind of international food imaginable in Tampa, you won't find a posh, black-owned soul food restaurant such as New York's B. Smith's or Detroit's Beans & Cornbread.

You will find a number of modest black-owned restaurants, including Ware's Quincy Restaurant, which he owns with his mother, Nettie Henderson. The restaurant at 6518 N 40th St. in east Tampa is named after the North Florida city where his mother grew up. It features family recipes that have been perfected over eight decades: meatloaf, fried chicken, yellow rice, green beans, cornbread.

As a caterer, Ware thought he could find his niche by working with pharmaceutical representatives who often provide lunch for doctors' offices. But he knew if he was going to succeed, he would have to deal with the negative perception about Southern food being unhealthy.

So Ware adjusted. Instead of preparing his collard greens with ham and pork, he flavored them with turkey legs. Instead of adding huge doses of seasoning salt, he seasoned with onions, herbs and spices. And he cut back on the portions.

The result? Ware's business has increased, and he believes he's ready to take the next step.

"If I do what I'm supposed to do, it's going to happen," Ware said. "I can't tell you when it's going to happen, but it's going to happen. I'm ready."

I think a lot of people are ready.

The next round of City Council elections are not until March 2007, but all the recent posturing and positioning makes you think the candidates are launching their campaigns next week.

The most interesting race could be West Tampa's District 6, which Mary Alvarez must leave because of term limits. At least three people have been mentioned as possible candidates: former mayoral candidate Frank Sanchez; state Rep. Bob Henriquez, D-Tampa; and none other than former City Council member and mayoral candidate Charlie Miranda.

It was largely thought that Miranda had retired from politics after losing to Pam Iorio in 2003. But when I reached Miranda in Michigan last week, he wouldn't confirm or deny the possibility.

He did, however, sound energetic enough to launch another campaign. Miranda is working this summer as a steward at Great Lakes Downs in Muskegon, Mich. When I told him he could be battling against Sanchez and Henriquez for District 6, Miranda jokingly said: "That sounds like the makings of a Latin basketball team."

Henriquez could be a contender for the council seat if he chooses not to run against City Council member Rose Ferlita for the County Commission seat Kathy Castor is vacating. But he's more likely to challenge Ferlita and support Sanchez for council.

Sanchez has not made an official announcement but was reportedly looking at running for Ferlita's District 2 citywide seat before turning to District 6.

With Sanchez apparently out of the District 2 race, it could come down to a battle between County Commissioner Thomas Scott and City Council member Shawn Harrison. The two recently had breakfast together and I'm told that Harrison tried to persuade Scott to pursue another office. Harrison denied it, describing the meal as a "gentlemanly, private conversation."

Scott also declined comment, but I can't imagine Scott being pleased with any suggestion he should opt out of the race. If Harrison did suggest Scott bow out, it probably only served to fuel Scott's fire. Both Scott and Harrison have designs on running for mayor after Iorio finishes what many believe will be her second term.

Of course, Scott is one of six county commissioners who supported the recent ban on county government recognizing gay pride month. It remains to be seen if that proves to be a factor, but it doesn't appear people's disappointment in the vote has subsided.

That's all I'm saying.

Ernest Hooper can be reached at 813 226-3406 or Hooper@sptimes.com

[Last modified August 3, 2005, 00:35:13]